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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 9, 2024 20:55:07 GMT 1
Once again, thanks lads for the encouragement. I was in a bit of a dark place (not nice at all) and even thought about selling the LC...then slapped myself about a bit for even contemplating that. Mouse rang me today and like all of you suggested things to do.
So the plan is give Steve a bell tomorrow, get him to pop over and see what he thinks. If he can do everything then I'll just let him get on with it. If it also requires some input from Chris (cheers matey!) then his talents will be utilised as well. Meantime I'm going to sort out a CDI mount and am going to order some new tyres. May as well get fresh rubber on whilst the wheels are out.
Thank you all for some sage guidance, I needed it!
Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 9, 2024 21:20:41 GMT 1
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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 9, 2024 22:26:54 GMT 1
Just ordered the bottom yoke dust cover too.
Alex
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Post by sidney81 on Apr 10, 2024 10:09:43 GMT 1
Keep pushing on Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 10, 2024 11:18:25 GMT 1
Will do! Thanks Chris.
Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 10, 2024 21:16:02 GMT 1
Got the pesky pistons out of the knackered calipers using the ratchet method. I was amazed at how easy it worked. I'll rebuild this tomorrow. Meantime I had an amazingly short chat with Steve and he's coming over on Friday. Alex
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Post by JonW on Apr 11, 2024 0:15:34 GMT 1
Good progress Alex. As Chris says, youve got to keep pushing forwards while this is fixed.
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 11, 2024 6:27:50 GMT 1
Nice one mate, progress already
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Post by mouse on Apr 11, 2024 6:44:58 GMT 1
Great stuff!
Mouse
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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 11, 2024 21:13:57 GMT 1
And done. Tyres should be here tomorrow so I'll try that Ducati place just round the corner. Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 12, 2024 20:44:09 GMT 1
Steve came round for a chat and then a decision was made about the yoke. He's going to remove the stem and add a flat spacer to emulate the LC yoke. He says he'll drop it off Monday evening. Fast! Good thing is he'll wait until we have a trial fit before he goes home, and that will take all of 20 seconds.
No tyres. Dammit.
Alex
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 12, 2024 21:42:01 GMT 1
Top bloke is Steve
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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 15, 2024 21:11:20 GMT 1
I was working today when I got a text saying my tyres had been dropped off at a neighbours place. Intersting invoice... Then a call from Steve (he got to my place quite early) saying he's left the yoke by my door and to let him know how it fits. Hmm. Had a test fit and it's worse. There is now no visible thread to put the lock nut on. I can understand why he's done this but the stem needs to come out and that spacer put directly at the bottom so the stem doesn't lose any height. He's coming back tomorrow for a looksie. Alex
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 15, 2024 21:23:02 GMT 1
Did he actually have a look at that the other day ? As we discussed, it's the shape of the yoke hitting the bottom edge of the frame headstock. That spacer would only work if the stem was longer. Even if the spacer below the bearing was removed and the bearing cup was flat against the yoke, the stem still wouldn't protrude at the top as the yoke will be hitting the bottom edge of the headstock.
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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 15, 2024 21:32:27 GMT 1
I know mate. I'll explain it in graphic detail tomorrow!
Alex
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 15, 2024 21:59:15 GMT 1
The red line is where your yoke is sitting against the bottom edge of the headstock; 7qlTwu6 by dusty miller, on Flickr Currently the stem is too short to protrude enough at the top to get the castellated nut on fully. Alternatively, Imagine your yokes high point was lower, where the blue line is. That would allow the yoke to move upwards, thus exposing the threads of the stem above the top bearing race. The way I see it is you either need a longer stem - careful measuring would also be required to make sure the bearing races engage properly, or the yoke needs modifying to allow it to clear the bottom edge of the headstock. Personally I would avoid altering the headstock( frame) itself -gonna be hard to remove metal evenly unless you strip it all back down, and you cant add it once removed of course, so it's either stem or yoke. I would ask Steve if a well could be milled around the bearing cup area which would lower the bearing cup, but that would mean adding metal (weld) to the underside of the yoke before machining as it's currently not thick enough. This may be the cheapest option if it's possible, as Chris has kindly offered to weld it up for you, foc. Only problem may be at the back of the yoke where there is very little metal around the back edge of the stem If you go for a longer stem you must make sure the bearing cups are going to engage as they should, otherwise you will get excessive play and they wont be doing their job. This will need careful measuring. I know the new stem shares the dims of the Lc stem, but the Lc yoke is flat where the bearing cup sits - the Mito is basically curved, and stopping the stem from going in as far as it needs too.
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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 15, 2024 22:54:41 GMT 1
Brilliant Dusty. I was wondering how to explain it to Steve and you've solved it for me. I'll show him this instead. Thanks matey!
Ale
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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 17, 2024 21:15:24 GMT 1
Steve couldn't make it yesterday but he came over today. I explained that the fitment was even worse and showed him...and what I did was show him it fits perfectly. I stared at the yoke, then him, offered profuse apologies. I felt like a total Dwayne Dibbley. So all is good. No wobble and plenty of thread to get that nut on. Bump stops still fine. So. Tomorrow I'll go get the tyes fitted. I'd love to start fitting the forks but I've been told the dust seal hasn't been sent yet...hey ho. Alex
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Post by JonW on Apr 18, 2024 0:43:40 GMT 1
OOops. Ahh well.
Dont forget to get the triple welded up, it needs repairing.
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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 18, 2024 22:20:40 GMT 1
It was a bit of a moment. In my defence I had been working like a banshee for 3 days when I tried to fit it. Totally knackered.
The yoke is fine Jon. The little hole there is on one bump stop and that was welded there by Chris. Pete popped over the other day and had a look and he agrees that there's a ton of metal there. I've ground back less than maybe 1mm.
And...the new tyres are fitted!
Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 19, 2024 21:14:11 GMT 1
So today was fit the front end day. I got distracted when it stopped raining and the sun came out...and so did Lora for a blast about. That car is like therapy... First off I cleaned up the yoke with my Dremel. Then cleaned each ball bearing. Fitted the dust seal and popped the yoke on. Then the forks and muddie. Hit a snag. The mudguard bracket should align with the speedo drive. Asked Pete to send me a pic of his set up so I can work out what's amiss. Oh, new booties on rims. Alex
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Post by tony2stroke on Apr 19, 2024 22:44:26 GMT 1
Soon be a rolling chassis.
There is always a snag when you're doing something different, all worth it when it's done though.
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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 21, 2024 21:15:05 GMT 1
Thought I'd do some online research about this speedo drive fitment but could find nothing at all. However on a microfiche I noticed I was missing a seal. Ducati Mondo had one and said it stops the drive from rotating. Really? Kinda doubtful but I ordered one anyway. Thought I'd clean it up, it was full of crap... All clean, packed with grease and a twirl with the speedo cable on confirmed it all works as it should. Alex
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Post by JonW on Apr 22, 2024 1:45:05 GMT 1
Always satisfying to have the speedo drive cleaned up, the grease in these is usually horrible and old.
Not sure how the seal fixes the issue with the drive locator, so interested to see when it arrives.
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 22, 2024 6:41:07 GMT 1
I think I have a plastic speedo drive in the shed that looks like yours, and it has a flat piece of plastic that is moulded into it that would locate against the cast stopper on your fork (usually the way it's done). Will have a look when I get in later. Looks like yours may have had one in the past. What diameter is your front spindle ? Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 22, 2024 11:26:24 GMT 1
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Post by JonW on Apr 22, 2024 13:42:27 GMT 1
Dusty I think Alex's speedo drive has a slot in it? DL'd the pic and adjusted the colours... yep there is a slot... I would say the fork leg and the speedo drive are not from the same bike
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 22, 2024 13:57:17 GMT 1
Aah, OK, couldn't make that out in the pic. Didn't think the Rgv drive would swap over, but you never know !
Dusty🙂
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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 22, 2024 21:27:00 GMT 1
Thanks lads. Mouse thought the drive was wrong too but it's 100% Mito 125. However he also pointed out that it might act like an RGV and lock into place once the wheel rotates forward...I will try tomorrow.
Alex
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Post by mouse on Apr 23, 2024 7:53:13 GMT 1
I suspect you have the wrong speedo drive too, as Dusty says. I think the drive you need should have a tab on it like an RGV one which would locate against the tab on the forks. The drive you have, has a slot which is nowhere near the tab on the forks.
I have done a quick bit of research and early Mitos had rwu forks and later ones like yours, upside down, so might they not have different speedo drives, still both Cagiva parts but each designed to work with the relevant forks?
Mouse
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