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Post by donkeychomp on Feb 8, 2024 22:34:09 GMT 1
Erm, no brake lines Jon! And this is my tried and tested method and has served me well...until today. The grease gun arrived. And I set to the bolts with the flame thrower. Worked a treat but these bolts are FUBAR. Who is the bright spark that thinks ally and iron work well together? Pistons coming out nicely on the spare caliper... But not on the one I restored. Managed to shift 2 of the 4. Gave up with it and carried on with the spare and I'm glad I did. This is in really good nick. Either the caliper was from a low mileage bike or it's been rebuilt before...but then if it was rebuilt, why use the original bolts? New seals ordered! Build it back up and jobs a good 'un. Alex
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Post by JonW on Feb 8, 2024 23:29:29 GMT 1
Well done.
Are you zincing the bolts?
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Post by donkeychomp on Feb 9, 2024 0:02:04 GMT 1
Cheers! Got nice new stainless ones.
Alex
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 9, 2024 7:54:09 GMT 1
You have to clamp the pistons that move easily, to force more pressure behind the ones that dont. I use a small G clamp/sthat restrict the free pistons, and that usually gets the stuck ones moving. You can borrow them if you need them mate
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Post by donkeychomp on Feb 9, 2024 22:22:36 GMT 1
Thanks Dusty. In hindsight yes I could have done that and I have those clamps but the old caliper has come out beautifully. In fact it's so good it doesn't even need paint. Result!
Alex
ps I will need to borrow your brake line design tool thingy if you know what I mean!
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 9, 2024 22:38:07 GMT 1
Yep, no problem
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Post by sidney81 on Feb 10, 2024 8:30:43 GMT 1
Nice work Alex 💪,I hate old sticky callipers.
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Post by donkeychomp on Feb 27, 2024 22:10:29 GMT 1
Today was mild and sunny for once so I decided to decoke the exhausts Dusty kindly donated. These will be used initially on the bike to make sure everything works as should, and then I'll try my unknown side by side pipes. All went swimmingly at first... Caustic soda bubbling away. One pipe is a lot rustier than the other for some reason. This came out! One baffle on the non-rusty pipe came out easily. Not so on the other one. Tried various methods. Then decided that fire is the answer... The baffle moves but by about 5mm side to side. Tomorrow I'm going to soak the end of the pipe in phosphoric acid to see if that shifts any rust that might be hiding in there. On a good note the bike is ready to go into the garage...get the loom and brakes done, plonk the engine in, go for a blat! Alex
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Post by JonW on Feb 28, 2024 0:49:36 GMT 1
if youve got 5mm side to side then youre almost there Alex. WD40 and more heat would get you the rest of the way i reckon. I bet one is rustier as that side got a different mixture, or was off another bike and stored for longer etc. Pipes might not always have been a 'set'. this is a cool pic:
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Post by mouse on Feb 28, 2024 8:16:45 GMT 1
Nice work Alex, that's a dirty job.
Mouse
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 28, 2024 9:45:38 GMT 1
Been there before 😩
Turned out to be carbon build up
Made a hook to go on a slide hammer and out it came 😉
Steve
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Post by oldbritguy on Feb 28, 2024 12:31:14 GMT 1
Put up a fight there Alex. Perseverance won in the end. Good job. John
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Post by JonW on Feb 28, 2024 13:33:50 GMT 1
Been there before 😩 Turned out to be carbon build up Made a hook to go on a slide hammer and out it came 😉 Steve Thats what i did as well.
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Post by donkeychomp on Feb 28, 2024 13:50:43 GMT 1
Thanks lads. I'll report back later with any news...
Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Feb 28, 2024 22:16:30 GMT 1
News. Let the zorst bubble away in the acid for ages (plonked the baffle that came out in there too) and nada. More heat, more WD. Nope. Leaving it overnight to soak and if that fails I'm getting a slide hammer.
Alex
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Post by tony2stroke on Feb 28, 2024 23:38:32 GMT 1
News. Let the zorst bubble away in the acid for ages (plonked the baffle that came out in there too) and nada. More heat, more WD. Nope. Leaving it overnight to soak and if that fails I'm getting a slide hammer. Alex Try soaking the end with the baffle in diesel, I think old brake fluid too if you have some, I think both are supposed to soften carbon build up, worth a try maybe, I would think it's carbon build up causing the trouble.
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Post by donkeychomp on Feb 29, 2024 0:04:30 GMT 1
If all else fails...I'll give it a go!
Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Mar 8, 2024 22:18:56 GMT 1
New gizmo arrived. And I need it! Strong little bugger. I don't actually need it for the exhaust but I do to modify the brake linkage on my rearsets. One part fouls the frame so need cutting down a tad. Alex
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Post by JonW on Mar 8, 2024 22:33:05 GMT 1
A vice is an amazing thing, you'll use it much more than you ever thought you would.
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Post by donkeychomp on Mar 8, 2024 23:23:25 GMT 1
I know mate. It's like having a third hand made of steel.
Alex
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Post by JonW on Mar 9, 2024 4:00:16 GMT 1
I know mate. It's like having a third hand made of steel. Alex Yes, with more grip than a grippy thing. Its also a mini press
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Post by donkeychomp on Mar 29, 2024 22:37:13 GMT 1
It begins...Elsie is finally coming into the garage for the final refit of everything. Rear wheel, front end and tank already moved, frame and engine tomorrow! Alex
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Post by JonW on Mar 29, 2024 23:03:11 GMT 1
Exciting times Alex!
Cant wait to see this one on the road for summer.
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Post by sidney81 on Mar 30, 2024 0:06:07 GMT 1
Brilliant,, looking forward to this Alex ,, put her against the post !!
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Post by donkeychomp on Mar 30, 2024 0:32:48 GMT 1
Mudguts! Get outta there!
Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Mar 30, 2024 22:35:41 GMT 1
She's downstairs! Mouse and Dusty popped over, (Mouse on his Bounty LC) and we set to it. Dusty and I carried the frame downstairs, it still had the swinger on it and lots of other bits whilst Mouse heroically hefted the frame stand down. Then the engine suspended by two lengths of rope. This time I bravely watched. First off the loom went in. We used Mouse's bike as a template for some of the tricky bits. Then we hit a snag. Mouse spotted that the bump stops on the yoke are preventing the lower bearings seating properly. My fault as I asked them to be there...so I'll remove those and drill a couple of holes and use bolts instead. I shall crack on tomorrow. Thanks lads for all your help, couldn't have done it without you! Alex
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 31, 2024 8:26:43 GMT 1
Hi mate, Happy to help, and good to catch up with you and Mouse, as always. Hold fire on cutting off the lock stops!! Really no need. As we discussed yesterday, you need to dress back the welds on the inner edges of the lock stops - marked red; p4LqIxD by dusty miller, on Flickr If you cut those lock stops off, any hole you drill for a bolt will be at an angle as the yoke isn't flat. That means the bolt head will be at an angle and not work as well as what you already have, plus it's work you dont need to do. You could end up with a real mess. Use the edge of a file to get between the lock stop and the bearing cup, or I have some thin files if needed. But back to the beginning. With the frame downstairs we fitted the loom and then decided to get the front and rear end in so the bike is easily moved. Once we fitted the correct bearing cups it became apparent the yoke stem wasn't protruding enough for the top castle nut to engage the thread ? Mouse spotted the welds on the inner edge of the lock stops were touching the lower edge of the frame headstock, preventing the yoke from fully engaging in the stem. Another possible problem is the bearings themselves. These are balls trapped in an outer ring, so not loose like standard. It seems they dont sit well in the standard Lc cups with the raised lip, and the cups they come with are very flimsy, so some standard BB's from the local bicycle shop should help I think. It's essential this is done right as the previous set up meant the stem was floating in the bearings as they didn't hug the stem. The flimsy cups had an id hole much bigger than the stem itself !! I would remove the wheel from the forks, and the forks from the yokes and just work on getting that bottom yoke fixed correctly in the headstock, then bolt everything back in. Another issue is the rear wheel bearings. I have no experience of Mito parts, but previously Alex couldn't seat one side fully. A quick inspection revealed a partial lip on one side of the bearing hole. I'm guessing a badly fitted bearing in the past maybe - not going in " square", and gouging the ali. With that lip smoothed out and a frozen bearing, hopefully it will locate properly. The other side however, is a different problem. The wheel bearing pushes into it's seat easily, and although you cant wobble it, the outer race can be turned in it's housing and isn't secure ! The whole bearing could rotate in the hole. These are new bearings, so some investigation into bearing numbers will be needed to make sure you have exactly the right ones. Once the front and rear ends are sorted the engine can be fitted, and then you are close to firing her up
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Post by donkeychomp on Mar 31, 2024 21:17:20 GMT 1
Thanks mate. It's just as well I got a call and had to go to a job today. By the time I got home and you called I was too knackered to do anything! I shall file those parts down, the bearings are ordered and I have checked and that is the correct bearing. They are identical on each side. So some of that bearing glue or whatever it is should suffice. I hope.
Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 2, 2024 21:18:38 GMT 1
So this is what needs dressing back. Made a start...will continue tomorrow. Alex
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 3, 2024 6:59:57 GMT 1
Hi mate, Make sure you dont file back the actual lock stops themselves - you risk altering the steering lock arc if you do, and that might mean you have the forks hitting the tank I would smear some grease around the bottom edge of the frame headstock tube, then fit the yoke so it comes into contact with the grease, then remove the yoke, and where the grease has left a ring on the raised welds on the yoke - that is where you need to carefully flatten back. Take your time with this - it doesn't need to clear by much
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