|
|
Post by icarus001 on Feb 20, 2017 16:57:26 GMT 1
I've done some DIY spray jobs before, they didn't turn out brilliant, but they weren't bad - a blind man on a fast horse wouldn't notice  I reckon if I took my time I'd probably do ok, plus I have a set of decals on the shelf. So for the price of some paint I fancy having a go at it. So anyone got any good tips for the prep work? Down to bare metal, just the top surface taken off? I plan on spraying, then lacquering over the decals. How hard can it be ? |
|
|
|
Post by somethingelsie on Feb 20, 2017 17:23:31 GMT 1
I totally agree with doing it yourself just be careful when laquering over decals as I had some curl up. Lee
|
|
|
|
Post by raven13 on Feb 20, 2017 18:27:34 GMT 1
for me it all depends how its been painted in the past.
if its had a few repairs and paint jobs I would go back to bare metal with a sander, repair any dents ect and flat again. then acid etch it, high build primer over the top of that and flat back.
another couple of coats of primer and another rub down (use a guide coat if needed) then a right good cleaning. get rid of all dust and residue. wipe down with prepaint (if you have some) and then tack cloths and then start top colour. take your time, don't try to over load the area with paint. lots of lighter coats. if it runs don't panic just let it dry and flat it out and spray again.
how many coats you do is up to you. my last set of panels got 2x 3 coats of primer and 2x5 coats of paint and will get a light coat of petrol proof laquer under the decals then at least 4 coats over and once flatted back may very well get more depending on how happy I am with them.
once again take your time with every step.
as always others will have their own preferred method, but this is what works for me
|
|
|
|
Post by LC_BOTT on Feb 20, 2017 19:04:14 GMT 1
I've done a couple of sets now, getting better each time. I just about do what Raven suggests, but try to stay with as few coats as possible (had some paint craze once, but that was a good few years ago, and didn't really know what I was doing (still don't TBH)
I'm using aerosols now, as they are excellent nowadays, and can give superb results 'IF' you take your time and prepare everything perfectly (or to the standard you require), you will see every imperfection otherwise, as light catches and reflects every scratch and dent that might be present etc
|
|
|
|
Post by paulincayman on Feb 20, 2017 19:40:00 GMT 1
The last job I did was my Duc, I used solid vinyl decals. By doing multiplecoats of laquer ( clearcoat ) over the decals and then sanding back I was able to get the decals flush with the surrounding surface, A finally couple of coats of clear and the decals appear to be in the paint and not on top of it . Extra work but worth it I think..
I have not tried this with printed decals where colours are layered over over a base colour . How are the decals that we see advertised everywhere constructed, Does each colour go all the way through ie solid ,or applied in layers?
Paul
|
|
|
|
Post by billbott on Feb 20, 2017 20:22:24 GMT 1
I painted my C90 over the winter (not ideal in the cold....) I warmed the paint in a bucket of hot water and the panels with my heat gun (would be ok in the summer). After flatting back, and removing all the rust, I did a couple of coats of brush on zinc primer where it see's weather. This was then wet flatted then two coats of primer.mit then got a coat or two of of silver base, followed by four candy red and four lacquer. Came out ok.       Good enough for a bogger. |
|
|
|
Post by jackjabba on Feb 20, 2017 20:23:17 GMT 1
The crazing Bott is on about is usually caused by putting the next coat on too soon.
Don't do 2 pac without the correct gear.
|
|
|
|
Post by steveducati on Feb 20, 2017 21:38:35 GMT 1
That looks brilliant ! I'm intrigued by the lacquer over the decals. Is this just clear lacquer spayed over the decal and surrounding area? This is just to make sure the decals are smooth and there are no edges I assume. You dont spray the whole tank or side panel with it ?
|
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 20, 2017 21:43:05 GMT 1
That looks brilliant ! I'm intrigued by the lacquer over the decals. Is this just clear lacquer spayed over the decal and surrounding area? This is just to make sure the decals are smooth and there are no edges I assume. You dont spray the whole tank or side panel with it ? Yep everything gets lacquered Protects the decal and needs to be everywhere for an even finish If you only lacquer the decal or certain panels you can see a difference in the depth of the gloss Steve |
|
|
|
Post by kostas on Feb 20, 2017 22:00:45 GMT 1
Follow as much of the advice but there is a minor downside on DIY paint jobs..
Uncontrolled environment.
To be more specific,
Dust, bugs, humidity, poor lighting during paint application, even your own overspray from the paint gun.
In the end the paint finish is what is visible following all your hard work rebuilding the dam bike!
Kostas
|
|
|
|
Post by steveducati on Feb 20, 2017 22:08:30 GMT 1
That looks brilliant ! I'm intrigued by the lacquer over the decals. Is this just clear lacquer spayed over the decal and surrounding area? This is just to make sure the decals are smooth and there are no edges I assume. You dont spray the whole tank or side panel with it ? Yep everything gets lacquered Protects the decal and needs to be everywhere for an even finish If you only lacquer the decal or certain panels you can see a difference in the depth of the gloss Steve Ok makes sense. I've ordered 2 side panels and new front mudguard with new decals, so I will give it a go when the weather warms up. What does everyone recommend for the white on 250LC ? Is it literally just white or is there an accepted colour code ? |
|
|
|
Post by veg on Feb 20, 2017 22:12:56 GMT 1
Heard good report of these and they list the specific colours www.rsbikepaint.com/en-gb/colours.phpI am in 2 minds to do mine but as all my panels are carbon veering towards professional job |
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 20, 2017 22:23:01 GMT 1
Heard good report of these and they list the specific colours www.rsbikepaint.com/en-gb/colours.phpI am in 2 minds to do mine but as all my panels are carbon veering towards professional job I've used their stuff for touching up panels a few times and it is really good Only thing I'd say is that I've had 2 different lots of candy and base coat. 1 was solvent based and one was water based. They both gave really good results and the colour was perfect but I preferred the solvent stuff The problem with the water based stuff is you can't sand it well as it takes days to dry out for dry sanding and you can't wet sand as it softens so if you get a run its a bugger to sort. Also you can't wet apply decals without clear coating first to seal it Steve |
|
|
|
Post by firmstools on Feb 20, 2017 22:34:39 GMT 1
I have had good results with aerosol paint jobs before but for me the paint never dries hard, it always seems to damage easily and is just not as durable as a pro job.
My technique or the quality of modern paint?
(I think I know the answer to that!)
|
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 20, 2017 22:42:08 GMT 1
I have had good results with aerosol paint jobs before but for me the paint never dries hard, it always seems to damage easily and is just not as durable as a pro job. My technique or the quality of modern paint? (I think I know the answer to that!) I've had this too but the rs paints stuff was better than the bikepaintermal off ebay stuff. It took weeks to harden and after 4 years the lacquer crazed. Steve |
|
|
|
Post by tout on Feb 20, 2017 22:42:59 GMT 1
[quote
Good enough for a bogger.[/quote]
Quality job that Bill, good enough for any bike
|
|
|
|
Post by raven13 on Feb 21, 2017 2:03:22 GMT 1
for me it all depends how its been painted in the past. if its had a few repairs and paint jobs I would go back to bare metal with a sander, repair any dents ect and flat again. then acid etch it, high build primer over the top of that and flat back. another couple of coats of primer and another rub down (use a guide coat if needed) then a right good cleaning. get rid of all dust and residue. wipe down with prepaint (if you have some) and then tack cloths and then start top colour. take your time, don't try to over load the area with paint. lots of lighter coats. if it runs don't panic just let it dry and flat it out and spray again. how many coats you do is up to you. my last set of panels got 2x 3 coats of primer and 2x5 coats of paint and will get a light coat of petrol proof laquer under the decals then at least 4 coats over and once flatted back may very well get more depending on how happy I am with them. once again take your time with every step. as always others will have their own preferred method, but this is what works for me I have to add I only use rattle cans. I don't have access to spray equipment |
|
|
|
Post by paulsx on Feb 21, 2017 9:42:47 GMT 1
I spray all my bikes myself and don't see any reason why you cant get a good finish. Crazing can also be caused by the type of primer the Japanese use that seems to react with everything. For older steel tanks I always get them sand blasted as I have seen lots of good paint jobs that have rust spots appear after a few months.
When it comes to clear coating over decals the first couple of coats needs to be very light and you need to leave at least 20mins between coats overwise the decal can curl or run. I tend to do put on 2 or 3 light coats then leave it till the next night and apply a few heavier coats.
Rattle cans are ok but you are limited to how much paint you can put on. With the base colour thats not too bad but with the clear coat you can end up having to put on 10 or more coats to get enough paint on. Also remember most rattle can clear coats aren't petrol resistant either
|
|
|
|
Post by LC_BOTT on Feb 21, 2017 11:58:24 GMT 1
Some good info, learnt a few more tips too, I obviously need to increase the ammount of paint I use, I only put two coats of lacquer on as well. I have started buying the cans from a 'proper' paint supplier, these seem 'thicker' smoother to apply, and seems less prone to runs.
Have also started using 2K stuff, U-pol is superb. I also invested in an air fed mask as I read it's poisonous on many occasions (isocyanate)
The big drawback is once it's activated you have to use it or bin it before it hardens (can be 2 hours or 2 days sometimes) and I believe is better if done in a heated room??
|
|
|
|
Post by paulsx on Feb 21, 2017 12:10:36 GMT 1
Some good info, learnt a few more tips too, I obviously need to increase the ammount of paint I use, I only put two coats of lacquer on as well. I have started buying the cans from a 'proper' paint supplier, these seem 'thicker' smoother to apply, and seems less prone to runs. Have also started using 2K stuff, U-pol is superb. I also invested in an air fed mask as I read it's poisonous on many occasions (isocyanate) The big drawback is once it's activated you have to use it or bin it before it hardens (can be 2 hours or 2 days sometimes) and I believe is better if done in a heated room?? I switched over to using 2k a few years ago and aside from the obvious health issues its much easier to get a good result with it as the paint goes on so much thicker. With primer its great as we can apply it 2-3mm thick and then sand off the excess and it wont sink into filler repairs etc. It is a legal requirement to have a full face air fed mask in the UK but you can buy what looks like a gas mask with special filters for about £20, (which is what I use) and they are ok to use but not legal in the UK (ok in a lot of other countries). Its the hardener for the paint that is poisonous with 2k in spray form and not great if you stick your hands in it. |
|
|
|
Post by muddyfox on Feb 21, 2017 12:30:55 GMT 1
or have a wrap done by me!
|
|
|
|
Post by firmstools on Feb 21, 2017 14:33:44 GMT 1
There's something I haven't considered!
Got any pics of wrapped LC bodywork?
|
|
|
|
Post by muddyfox on Feb 21, 2017 15:56:10 GMT 1
if drop onto my post on the forsale section the are some examples fizzy tank yellow black speed blocks, im doing a white base with red speed blocks for some one in the next few days and will again update the post
|
|
|
|
Post by icarus001 on Feb 21, 2017 17:56:59 GMT 1
Thanks for all the info guys.
I think my first attempt of having a proper go at it will be on my TDR.
I've got brand new panels, bare plastic, and they're a really good finish, so the only 'old' part will be the tank.
The tank is rough at the moment, I'm sure it's the original paint but it's got a really rough finish on it now after 28yrs of use, no rust though, so I'm hoping a really good sanding will take it back to a smooth finish that I can spray over.
The idea behind leaving the original paint on is it's obviously been a great sealant because there is no rust outside at all (and inside is good too).
So once I've sanded past the original decals I'm hoping to apply a new coat of primer and then go from there.
It's not a show bike, it's a bike to ride, so if it looks good from a few feet away then I'll be happy with it.
|
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 21, 2017 19:07:42 GMT 1
You not got a friendly bodyshop near by?
Couple of options I've done before
First one was either straight white and straight black so prepped the panels and dropped with the bodyshop. They painted them then I picked them up, fitted the decals then dropped them back for clear coat. Usually £2-300
Second time I painted the panels, fitted the decals then dropped them off for clear coat. Usually from £30 for a panel up to £100.
Third option is do it all yourself but be warned the rs paints rattle cans soon add up. £16 for a base and £19 for a colour plus vat plus delivery. I spent £100 just to do a fairing and belly pan on an lc2.
Steve
|
|
|
|
Post by icarus001 on Feb 21, 2017 19:26:06 GMT 1
You not got a friendly bodyshop near by? Couple of options I've done before First one was either straight white and straight black so prepped the panels and dropped with the bodyshop. They painted them then I picked them up, fitted the decals then dropped them back for clear coat. Usually £2-300 Second time I painted the panels, fitted the decals then dropped them off for clear coat. Usually from £30 for a panel up to £100. Third option is do it all yourself but be warned the rs paints rattle cans soon add up. £16 for a base and £19 for a colour plus vat plus delivery. I spent £100 just to do a fairing and belly pan on an lc2. Steve At the moment I'm comparing it to what I'd spend at Dream Machine, and it would exceed a grand. So if I can do a £250 job, and it looks a quarter as good as a DM job, then I reckon that will pass as good enough. It's not a nut & bolt restoration, it's an engine rebuild, a strip down to regrease and a wipe down with an oily rag, but that's about it, a few bits of NOS but not enough to notice, and just enough work to get it through an MOT. At some point I may give it the full monty, but not now, it'll be a bike to ride for the next couple of years. |
|
|
|
Post by petehodges on Feb 21, 2017 23:23:50 GMT 1
ive sprayed my own cars bikes ect for years however i last painted my lc it took me ages as said proper 2k paints laqcers primers , activators ,masking ,thinners all adds up , + your time spent i had to ask a mate to fit 3 strip on my lc he does this sort of thing only much bigger every day . however on my lc he was swearinglike a goodun told me it was a real bitch as we know the decals arent cheap . so this time ive sent it all up too mark cordwell sure he knows how to charge but from what i see they come back spot on , if not he gets it back again simples another plus is the shed doesnt get covered in overspray  |
|
|
|
Post by icarus001 on Feb 22, 2017 3:35:40 GMT 1
I might just send the tank off to get done professionally.
The brand new panels should be easy enough to get a decent finish on myself.
|
|
|
|
Post by zedixe13 on Feb 22, 2017 6:13:32 GMT 1
One of the best tutorial I've seen on rattle can painting on bikes. www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=264901''Since most of you can probably (or already have) figured out the hard way, and the “it looked good for a week” way, in this article I’ll detail how to paint a motorcycle using nothing but rattle can, or “spray bomb” paints, and get truly professional LONG lasting results. (7+ years looking perfect is not at ALL uncommon) it’ll cost a bit more than your typical spray bomb job, and the toughest thing will probably be convincing people that it really IS a rattle can job.'' |
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 22, 2017 9:35:54 GMT 1
I might just send the tank off to get done professionally. The brand new panels should be easy enough to get a decent finish on myself. Good option I picked up a set of newly painted lc2 bodywork last year but missing the tank and had intended doing the base,candy and decals before getting local guy to clear coat it. Reckoned it would cost me 140 and a bit of time Spoke to mark yesterday and he said if I send him the tank and one panel he will match the tank to it for £200. No brainer really. I've also had my bikes done in the straight white off the mixing station (urki 900) by the local guy but then paid a bike painter to do the tank in 2 pack the same colour Steve |
|
