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Post by doohanno1 on Nov 6, 2016 20:36:53 GMT 1
Spent over four hours this afternoon trying to bleed the brakes on the lc with no result.. I have refurbed the calipers plus new hoses. The m/c was working ok before.. No sign of any leaks . Absolutly soul destroying coming out of the shed with nothing achieved.. Any words of wisdom much appreciated.. Tks..
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Post by jakethepeg007 on Nov 6, 2016 20:58:05 GMT 1
Try clamping the hose below the master cylinder and pumping up the lever until you get that to go hard, then clamp one caliper hose so your only trying to bleed one caliper, be careful no to let the reservoir run empty. Once you get a good hard lever swap over to the other caliper.
Make sure you don't get brake fluid on any paint or wipe it up immediately as it will take it off.
Use new brake fluid from a sealed container as it absorbs moisture, hence the reason it should be changed regularly
Cheers
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Post by steven on Nov 6, 2016 21:09:50 GMT 1
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Post by Ozhammer on Nov 6, 2016 21:15:22 GMT 1
As above, treat yourself to a vacuum bleeder and you will wish you had bought one years ago. I had exactly the same issue with mine and it was the only thing that sorted it.
Rgds Ozhammer
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Post by Yogi on Nov 6, 2016 21:19:42 GMT 1
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Post by oldelsieboy on Nov 6, 2016 21:22:25 GMT 1
I have never found it necessary to buy anything other than a length of clear silicone pipe/hose long enough to reach from the bleed nipple to the master cylinder.
OEB
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Post by doohanno1 on Nov 6, 2016 21:54:37 GMT 1
My wife says if this doubles as a pen*s enhancer she will let me buy it.
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Post by doohanno1 on Nov 6, 2016 21:59:21 GMT 1
I have never found it necessary to buy anything other than a length of clear silicone pipe/hose long enough to reach from the bleed nipple to the master cylinder. OEB " bleed nipple to master cylinder" ?.. Can you explain..
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Post by oldelsieboy on Nov 6, 2016 22:15:57 GMT 1
I have never found it necessary to buy anything other than a length of clear silicone pipe/hose long enough to reach from the bleed nipple to the master cylinder. OEB " bleed nipple to master cylinder" ?.. Can you explain.. Fix one end of hose to bleed nipple & with the master cylinder top removed fix the other end so it is immersed in the reservoir fluid. Undo bleed nipple half a turn & pump the brake lever. Fluid should start to emerge from the bleed nipple & rise up the hose. Keep pumping the lever, you should see bubbles emerge from the top end of the hose, don't forget to top up the fluid level in the reservoir, until the hose is full of fluid. Keep pumping till no more bubble can be seen in the reservoir. With the lever held against the bars tighten the bleed nipple & gently release the lever. Repeat the process on the other caliper, if it a twin setup, this time when complete tie the lever back to the bars & leave overnight, covering the open M/C reservoir with a clean rag to prevent any debris from entering. Next day with the lever still tied tighten the bleed nipple & gently release the lever. Job done. I have used this method plenty of times without issues & always have a good solid lever. OEB
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Post by sbscnor on Nov 6, 2016 22:17:51 GMT 1
I have never found it necessary to buy anything other than a length of clear silicone pipe/hose long enough to reach from the bleed nipple to the master cylinder. OEB Same for me NEVER had a problem
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Post by doohanno1 on Nov 6, 2016 22:41:16 GMT 1
I have never found it necessary to buy anything other than a length of clear silicone pipe/hose long enough to reach from the bleed nipple to the master cylinder. OEB Same for me NEVER had a problem You are one of the CHOSEN few..
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Post by raven13 on Nov 6, 2016 23:19:54 GMT 1
I tend to reverse bleed with a large irrigation sringe,
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Post by steve h on Nov 7, 2016 1:46:10 GMT 1
I tend to reverse bleed with a large irrigation sringe, Kin ell!!!! That sounds eye watering!
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Post by mannanan on Nov 7, 2016 17:26:08 GMT 1
I feel your pain! Had the same problem with my F2. I always used the long tube, nipple to reservoir method which worked a treat on my aircooled RD's. Buggered if it I could get it to clear out all the air in the F2 system. Like raven13, a eureka moment was had with the reverse bleed and big syringe method.
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Post by daz on Nov 7, 2016 19:16:00 GMT 1
Iuse a 50ml syringe amd clear hose and pull the fluid through the bleeb nipple
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Post by 4l04ever on Nov 7, 2016 21:36:37 GMT 1
Vacuum bleeder for me. Also useful for flushing the old fluid out.
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Post by mattybeckett on Nov 7, 2016 22:16:17 GMT 1
Might be an air leak around one of the washers? but normally you can let gravity do it's job' slow process but with both nipples open with some clear piping to see what's happening wait until it is seen coming out of pipes' then close nipples and pump lever as many times as poss to get a bit of pressure and cable tie lever tight as poss and leave over night, air normally rises back up to master cylinder and you should then have some pressure to continue bleeding next day... Good luck..
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Post by jakethepeg007 on Nov 8, 2016 0:12:03 GMT 1
" bleed nipple to master cylinder" ?.. Can you explain.. Fix one end of hose to bleed nipple & with the master cylinder top removed fix the other end so it is immersed in the reservoir fluid. Undo bleed nipple half a turn & pump the brake lever. Fluid should start to emerge from the bleed nipple & rise up the hose. Keep pumping the lever, you should see bubbles emerge from the top end of the hose, don't forget to top up the fluid level in the reservoir, until the hose is full of fluid. Keep pumping till no more bubble can be seen in the reservoir. With the lever held against the bars tighten the bleed nipple & gently release the lever. Repeat the process on the other caliper, if it a twin setup, this time when complete tie the lever back to the bars & leave overnight, covering the open M/C reservoir with a clean rag to prevent any debris from entering. Next day with the lever still tied tighten the bleed nipple & gently release the lever. Job done. I have used this method plenty of times without issues & always have a good solid lever. OEB OEB, you shouldn't leave the reservoir open or covered by a rag, the brake fluid is hygroscopic and even left for a couple of hours to atmosphere will absorb moisture, and will allow it to boil in the calipers at a lower temperature, causing brake fade.
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Post by bernardo on Nov 8, 2016 11:17:32 GMT 1
As Raven13 says reverse bleed using a syringe, works every time. Cover the reservoir though,brake fluid tends to shoot up in the air
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Post by doohanno1 on Nov 9, 2016 22:25:30 GMT 1
Thanks for the input.. I"ll try one if not all the methods this weekend...
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Post by seanclarky on Nov 10, 2016 13:27:27 GMT 1
I had the same problem, it took ages to sort it! Eventually zip tying the lever to the bars overnight sorted it
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Post by wangwang on Nov 12, 2016 11:31:19 GMT 1
Reverse bleed with a syringe for me too!
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