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Post by mollers on Sept 30, 2016 18:44:42 GMT 1
Evening all Just about to start my first engine rebuild on my 4L0 Never done one before so very much the virgin !!!!. Any top tips or advice will be greatly received please Cheers Mollers.
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Post by arrow on Sept 30, 2016 18:50:16 GMT 1
Enjoy it! It is a most rewarding task. You will get loads of help on here. My advice; look to borrow or buy a DTI. It is the only way to get the ignition timing accurate enough, center punch marks etc are not. And don't try to lift the engine out alone if you have any trouble with your back. Its fair to say its heavier than it looks.
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Post by markhoopy on Sept 30, 2016 19:20:19 GMT 1
Send your oil pump to Arrow so he can check it over and set it up for you. Use genuine head gasket and crankshaft oil seals on your rebuild. You will need a flywheel puller and clutch holding tool (both are cheap to buy) and a 32mm socket for the clutch centre nut. There is nothing to fear inside these engines - they are very simple and you will hopefully enjoy doing the work yourself
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Post by risolc on Sept 30, 2016 19:28:38 GMT 1
only just got both flywheel puller & clutch tool off Norbo this week,so if you want to borrow rather than buy PM. Arrow currently has my oil pump too & muttsnutts got the carbs Still not too sure about splitting the engine tho😬😬
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Post by steven on Sept 30, 2016 19:29:55 GMT 1
Hi Mollers, Beg, borrow or steal ... a quality torque wrench, dont be tempted to use or buy a cheapo one as they are pants ! steven.
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Post by arrow on Sept 30, 2016 19:33:44 GMT 1
I needed to by a 29mm socket for the rebuild. Can't remember where for though. Anyone know?
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Post by steven on Sept 30, 2016 19:39:36 GMT 1
I needed to by a 29mm socket for the rebuild. Can't remember where for though. Anyone know? Clutch centre nut.
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Post by markhoopy on Sept 30, 2016 19:41:14 GMT 1
I needed to by a 29mm socket for the rebuild. Can't remember where for though. Anyone know? Clutch centre nut. Oops yes .. LC is 29mm not 32
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Post by arrow on Sept 30, 2016 19:42:17 GMT 1
Cheers.
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Post by bare on Sept 30, 2016 19:55:36 GMT 1
Cheapish beam type Torque wrenchs are typically Mo' accurate than Med priced Clicker ones :-) A penny betwixt Primary and Clutch gear locks it up nicely .. safely.
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Post by mollers on Sept 30, 2016 21:28:10 GMT 1
Thanks for all the advice guys. Arrow has my pump already so all good. Will give it a bash and see how i get on tomorrow. Fairly sure i will be back her asking idiot questions tomorrow lol.
Cheers all.
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Post by arrow on Sept 30, 2016 21:32:00 GMT 1
Thanks for all the advice guys. Arrow has my pump already so all good. Will give it a bash and see how i get on tomorrow. Fairly sure i will be back her asking idiot questions tomorrow lol. Cheers all. Your pump will be posted back early next week. I am away for a week starting October 6th.
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Post by mollers on Sept 30, 2016 22:02:52 GMT 1
Thanks Arrow. Thats great.
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Post by jon on Sept 30, 2016 22:32:27 GMT 1
Bare, while your advice on the penny was sound advice for a 'bodge' in the past, it is not true today.
In the UK since 1992 the penny is not made of copper, but just copper plated steel. Use a magnet and see for yourself.
If you still want to do this, use a bit of copper pipe.
Jon
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Post by davey on Oct 1, 2016 7:11:05 GMT 1
I did a first rebuild the beginning of this year . I took lots of pics as things came apart. I also did some other stuff like clutch plates , springs etc while it was torn down It really is a very satisfying feeling to rebuild yourself .
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Post by dusty350 on Oct 1, 2016 7:33:54 GMT 1
Hi Good luck. They are relatively simple engines to work on. There are rebuild threads in the resto section too that can help. My advice; Take lots of digital pics - everything Freezer bags to keep parts together Do the gear shaft bush mod - Norbo sells the bush Consider vapour blasting once it's all apart - makes a huge difference to the look of a finished engine Check every part for wear - now is the time to change if you are in any doubt Use genuine Yamaha parts where possible, or at least known good quality pattern parts Use recommended firms for things like crank rebuilds and rebores - guys here know who to use Get a Microfiche downloaded - much easier to order parts with a Yam part number Have the right tools for the job - clutch tool, rotor puller, torque wrench Make a small engine stand - easier to manouver the cases around on the bench. Takes no time at all with some scrap wood I always collect as many parts together as I can before I start. Take your time and enjoy it. I did start a thread - will finish it one day !!, but may help; rdlccrazy.proboards.com/thread/34544/rd350lc-engine-rebuildGood luck Dusty
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Post by stusco on Oct 1, 2016 7:41:14 GMT 1
Bare, while your advice on the penny was sound advice for a 'bodge' in the past, it is not true today. In the UK since 1992 the penny is not made of copper, but just copper plated steel. Use a magnet and see for yourself. If you still want to do this, use a bit of copper pipe. Jon I just used a two pence coin it was copper ,I might have been an old one though .
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Post by jon on Oct 1, 2016 7:45:59 GMT 1
Should be easy to tell, they have the date embossed on them. As I said, use a magnet if your unsure. Obviously it won't attract the old copper ones. Jon
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Post by mollers on Oct 1, 2016 11:40:26 GMT 1
Thanks Dusty. Started this morning, all going well after the first hour lol. Thanks again to all for the tips.
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Post by richclare on Oct 1, 2016 12:27:40 GMT 1
Hi Mollers,
I will be very interested how you get on and anything you learn along the way. I'm just about to order bearings etc. for my 4l0 rebuild. Dusty's rebuild link is really helpful with detailed pics. Keep us posted with photos if you can.
Have a good weekend of building😉
Rich
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Post by rostrumorhospital on Oct 1, 2016 13:12:15 GMT 1
mollers - lots of good advice above, I'm just finishing of my first engine rebuild and like yourself was a bit aprehensive about strpping it down, I started off with dustys advice and made a wooden stand for the engine to sit on and got the cases vapour blasted to start off, I took my time and cleaned / inspected & bagged every part as it came of and noted any parts that needed repaced which definitely made rebuilding the engine quite quick and easy. Enjoy your rebuild and there's nothing to be aprehensive about and take plenty of photo's
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 1, 2016 18:44:40 GMT 1
Bare, while your advice on the penny was sound advice for a 'bodge' in the past, it is not true today. In the UK since 1992 the penny is not made of copper, but just copper plated steel. Use a magnet and see for yourself. If you still want to do this, use a bit of copper pipe. Jon I can send you some five cent pieces if you like
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Post by akhil2212 on Oct 7, 2016 16:19:20 GMT 1
Hi,
I am buying a F2 in parts over the weekend.
Can anyone share a quide on how to go about checking the engine, electricals and maybe on how to go about restoring the engine myself ?
Thanks
Akhilesh
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Post by Yogi on Oct 7, 2016 16:26:11 GMT 1
Hi, I am buying a F2 in parts over the weekend. Can anyone share a quide on how to go about checking the engine, electricals and maybe on how to go about restoring the engine myself ? Thanks Akhilesh Hi mate Firstly grab a Haynes manual and this should help too www.scooterhelp.com/RZ_help/restorations/rebuild.crank.htmlJust press on the above Matt
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Post by dusty350 on Oct 7, 2016 16:27:49 GMT 1
Hi I did some pics of an f2 engine build in the past. I will see if i can do a link. Strip down is basically the same as an lc - powervalves are a bit more work but not difficult really.
Dusty
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Post by akhil2212 on Oct 7, 2016 17:42:15 GMT 1
Thanks a lot Matt and Dusty.
Look forward to valuable inputs.
Akhilesh
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Post by dusty350 on Oct 7, 2016 19:00:08 GMT 1
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