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Post by dusty350 on Mar 29, 2012 19:47:57 GMT 1
Hi all This is gonna be a real long term build, as I still have my Lc hybrid to finish, plus I have run out of funds . But, I have decided to strip it down so I can better decide what direction to head with it, plus what it will need, and also so I can do bits and bobs that don't actually cost anything. Here is the e-bay special that I started with; Sold to me as an "E" reg 350Ypvs with matching frame and engine numbers. Bike had seized on a ride out 2 years previously, engine removed, stripped, crank replaced and then interest was lost. Bores are on .25, but there are no pistons. Engine is complete otherwise. The wheels are Kawasaki Kr1, 17" front and 18" rear, Kr1 yokes with a stem swap by the looks of it and the swingarm fits in nicely. Wheels have been powdercoated and seem in very good nic. The seat unit is from a Cbr Honda, and from a distance looks really good. F2 side panels have been glassed in to the Cbr panels and some frame mods were done so it all fitted. It was far from perfect though; Its a shame because some areas of the bike look like they have had lots of time spent on them, whilst other bits look unfinished. I have decided, at the moment anyway, to go back to standard bodywork, ie side panels, seat and mudguards from an F2. I will keep the Kawasaki front and back ends, but will get the top yoke modded for risers and hopefully an Lc clock bracket. The turning lock is very limited with the clip ons. The frame is going to need some work. The area where the two rear mudguards bolt together has been bodged, so hopefully I will reinstate an original set up. I want to tidy up the bottom shock mount, plus remove the brackets for the F2 fairing mounts as they will never be used. First job will be to see if I can get the discs cleaned up; All the discs bolts came out with no dramas so that was a result !! More soon. Dusty
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Post by pepsisteve on Mar 29, 2012 20:51:14 GMT 1
;Dnice to see projects start, so much work to do but so worth it in the end, problem i have is when other people hold you up that you farm work out to like powder coaters etc, i am currently waiting for a rear clock surround off ebay, 1st one turned up smashed to bits by postie still waiting for replacement but its holding up the build now. should have just paid the extra £10 and got one of norbs
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Post by JonW on Mar 29, 2012 22:21:52 GMT 1
Sounds an interesting build Dusty, interesting to see if you still do what you set out here when you finally build it, I know my own builds changed as time went on
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 29, 2012 22:32:34 GMT 1
I know what you mean about changing your mind as you progress. It will be an F2 special with Kwak front and back ends, kwak brakes as nothing else really fits, engine rebuilt with airbox and Microns fitted back on. I want to use as much of what I have got as possible to keep the cost down. After adding up the cost of the Lc Hybrid build, I know I cant spend that sort of money again. If I end up with a good rolling chassis by the end of the year, I will be really pleased. The frame will be my first job to tackle, which will have a cost implication, but lots of other parts will get cleaned up so hopefully only cost me elbow grease !! Dusty
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Post by Norbo on Mar 30, 2012 10:22:19 GMT 1
I quight like the back wnd it looks like it could have been a standard fitment . i look forward to see how this one takes shape.
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 1, 2012 20:17:39 GMT 1
Made a start today on the long list of bits that just need cleaning up. Oil tank and coolant tank look like they had 25 years of crud on them; A combination of Cillet Ban, oven cleaner, cellulose thinners, bleach and a 2 hour cycle in the dishwasher( not mine) and they look a bit better; I will probably drill the rivets out on the coolant tank bracket so I can rub it down and respray, and fix back on with stainless button heads. Nights tomorrow, so if it's quiet then these are next; Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 3, 2012 9:40:39 GMT 1
Just got in from an uneventfull night shift Airbox was stripped down last night, scrubbed to within an inch of its life then reassembled, getting some colour back along the way; Dusty
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Post by scott on Apr 3, 2012 21:06:30 GMT 1
nice work dusty,wish i had the patience to to this m8...i can only do 1 job for so long
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Post by andyburts on Apr 3, 2012 22:03:12 GMT 1
i love threads like this dusty ... keep the pics coming ...
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Post by JonW on Apr 4, 2012 0:15:19 GMT 1
this is perfect, you just do bits now and then and box em, then later you will have big chunks to fit back on the bike. exactly how i do this
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 7, 2012 20:13:47 GMT 1
Cleaned the electrics up the other night; I also polished the Microns which came up pretty good. Shock has been dismantled today as it is filthy; I need to get the spring powdercoated but I can sort the rest myself as it is an ally body. I was in Aldi yesterday and bought an angle grinder and loads of cutting/sanding discs. Got carried away this morning and got rid of all the fairing brackets that wont be needed; I chopped off the steering lock boss as it interferred with the ignition switch. I never leave my bikes unattended so wont be using the steering lock. Must get back to the Hybrid Lc build and get it finished Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Sept 14, 2012 20:11:31 GMT 1
Update time ! Once totally stripped I found that the rear of the frame had been chopped off so the Cbr seat could be fitted . Also, the plates for the shock linkage looked a bit rough. After much deliberation, I thought it easier to get a standard F2 frame and start the rebuild with that. Only issue is that there are no numbers on the headstock I ground off all the fairing brackets again, and took measurements for the shock linkage plates. I bought some heavy duty metal plate, cut and shaped it and got my local engineering firm to properly weld it in. Then the frame, side stand, replacement rear light support, tie bars, engine mounting plates and a couple other bits went off to Microblast for powdercoating in gloss black. I bought a good F2 rear mudguard and rear light, and ebay turned up some standard side panels in very good condition. The swingarm was stripped and resprayed along with the rear brake carrier, the shock was stripped down and polished whilst the spring was being powdercoated. I had to replace one of the needle bearings in the linkage but thankfully the others were fine. I had the footrests vapour blasted, plus I had the discs blasted clean too. I did have it on ebay at one point as I got a bit bogged down with it, but I removed it and am perserveering!! Lots to do still. Fork legs need paint removing so I can get them polished. All brake calipers need the paint stripping off them, and I have rubbed down and primered the front muddie ready for a red/white speedblock design. I bought a good F2 seat and the tank is in really good nic so that's a bonus. The plan is for risers to be welded on so I can use Lc bars, plus I want to use Lc clocks. I sold the Microns to fund the powdercoating, but pipes will be one of the last things on the list !! I will try and update this one a little more often Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Sept 20, 2012 10:41:48 GMT 1
Got a bit of enthusiasm for this at the mo ! Rubbed down and primed the front mudguard, plus I had to trim up the front of it as someone had taken the rounded edges off and it looked uneven. Took it to work and emptied a tin of Halfords gloss white over it and it came up pretty good; A local vinyl supplier has matched the red to the stickers on the side panel so I shall buy a small sheet to make some speedblocks to apply once the paint has really hardened. I cleaned up the rear brake caliper by removing all the paint and adding new pads that came with the bike. The mounting plate has been repainted and I bought a new rubber boot for the sliding pins as it had perished; The rear cylinder was already stripped of paint, so I have cleaned it up. Had to drill out a broken bolt, but managed to retap it ok. The forks are off at the mo and I am stripping the paint off by hand The right side leg had a nasty gouge in it but I have managed to dress it out; Gonna get a polishing kit at Kempton this weekend and polish them up myself, then new oil and fit them back on. Also had a look at the top yoke with regards to fitting risers. I found some Rd 400 handlebar clamps that will do the job, so am going to have a go and fitting these myself. With this project, I need to do as much as I can myself to save money. A pro fork polish is £50- £60, and Nk Racing quoted £70.00 for risers, so I reckon I can save a few quid here and there. Regards Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Sept 27, 2012 10:39:01 GMT 1
Hi, Forks are now polished and I have some fresh oil to go in them. I have also binned the idea of using the Rd400 bar risers as they wont elevate the bars high enough to clear the fork adjusters, so I got some nice custom risers off ebay that will do the job. I am going to drill through the two threaded bosses you can see on the underside of the yoke. This means the risers are spread a little further apart than I would have liked, but this is the strongest part of the yoke to take the M10 riser bolts, plus I know the bolt holes will be in exactly the right place; I am also making some brackets that will allow fitment of the Lc clock bracket. Hopefully post pics up of those in the next day or so. Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Sept 28, 2012 13:27:37 GMT 1
Hi, I made the tabs for the clock bracket out of 6mm ally, and got my local engineering place to run some weld along the front edge of the yoke to make a nice strong bracket. The bolts for the risers pass through the back of the brackets too; I also removed the anodised finish off the yokes and polished them up a bit. Trouble is, once you've got a polishing kit, you can get carried away. The paint was manky on the ignition housing and it was easier to polish it than paint it . Forks are done, with new oil and stainless bolts; Bottom yoke had been vapour blasted previously, so gave it a quick spruce up; The risers bolt up nicely giving plenty of room for the fork preload adjusters; And here's a rough mock up of the clock positioning; I haven't tried to mirror polish any of the components as I know that it is harder to keep them scratch free in the future. I want to give them a going over with Solvol every now and then, so wont be after a perfect finish. I also cleaned the surface rust off the front discs. They are cast iron PFM discs, so will rust a bit, but i will give them a light coating of oil whilst I am building the bike. Must give a quick mention to my faithfull assistant, who keeps me amused by running off down the garden with my polishing mops Dusty
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Post by Denzil on Sept 30, 2012 22:21:15 GMT 1
Looking good fella.
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Post by dusty350 on Oct 14, 2012 19:44:36 GMT 1
Got some more done recently. I was going to invest in new headlight brackets, but decided on salvaging my originals to save some money; The clamps had light rust forming but the polishing mops got them back. The blue anodising took a bit more effort but got there eventually. I rubbed down and resprayed the clutch perch and master cylinder and polished the cylinder lid; I polished the levers too, the Kawasaki brake lever took ages as it had a really tough anodised finish. I did fork out on some nice Renthals. I took the switchgear apart and couldn't decide wether to paint or polish. I thought paint might wear too easily so a bit more time with the polishing mops. Next job is to offer up the headlight shell and get the brackets bolted up tight, and then I will fix the instruments bracket. Dusty
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Post by mikee on Oct 18, 2012 22:03:09 GMT 1
That was worth all the black snot from polishing top work
Get on with it then
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Post by dusty350 on Oct 24, 2012 18:30:28 GMT 1
I have sort of achieved my target for this project for this year. I wanted to get a rolling chassis together which I have managed. I hope to get a new headlight, twin horns and indicators sorted out in the next few weeks, plus there are some small jobs to do to existing parts. I want to make up some decals for the front mudguard, plus polish the petrol cap and rub down and primer the tank. I have resprayed the rad but I may do it again as I used a gloss rather than a satin, and I think a satin would look better. More soon.
Dusty
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Post by lovelydog on Oct 24, 2012 21:31:26 GMT 1
Ace bike mate and that is a lovely dog you've got.
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Post by dusty350 on Nov 7, 2012 17:58:44 GMT 1
Hi, Managed to get some indicators cheap at the Kempton autojumble. Also managed to get an original Kr1 chainguard of ebay for £4.00. It replaces a nasty ally guard that had been home made and didn't fit properly; Xmas is coming so I have made a list for Santa !! New headlight, twin horns and some engine parts. I hope to get the crankcases vapour blasted in the next week or so, and then I can start the slow rebuild of the engine. It's pretty scabby at the moment; Gonna strip it completely, get as much filth off as possible and then run it over to Cox's at Reading. Managed to get the clutch arm bearing out using a new method which makes it really easy; Hopefully the next pics will be of a freshly blasted set of cases !! Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Nov 9, 2012 8:40:00 GMT 1
Hi, Engine now completely stripped. Just need to add some old bolts to block the threaded holes and then it will be off to the blasters; Strip down was fairly straightforward until I got to the clutch nut. Unbelievably tight . Heat and penetrating fluid didn't shift it, so brute force and a 2 foot length of pipe on the end of my ratchet shifted it. Downside was my clutch tool buckled under the strain; Also damaged the clutch hub so will need another at some point. I always change all gearbox bearings when I do a rebuild so I had to get it off. Dusty
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Post by Norbo on Nov 9, 2012 9:10:38 GMT 1
ASt least its moving along . do you think it will be up and running for next summer ?
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Post by dusty350 on Nov 9, 2012 10:01:42 GMT 1
Hi Norbo, It will all come down to money as to wether it will be done. I still need to get the Hybrid finished as well Lottery win will be needed I think Dusty
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Post by fatfastroger on Nov 9, 2012 11:21:03 GMT 1
Looking good and like the clutch tool, if you can get enough leverage you can usually undo most things !!! What was the method you used to remove the clutch bearing ? And will you re-use the bearing or was it sh$£$£ggged afterwards ? As i will be stripping my bike over the next few weeks, might have the same issues
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Post by dusty350 on Nov 9, 2012 17:14:30 GMT 1
Hi, The large bearing behind the clutch basket just slides off once the basket is removed. It may appear ok, but I always change the gearbox bearings and shift drum bearing when I rebuild my engines. Not cheap though Dusty
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 9, 2012 17:27:25 GMT 1
Hi, The large bearing behind the clutch basket just slides off once the basket is removed. It may appear ok, but I always change the gearbox bearings and shift drum bearing when I rebuild my engines. Not cheap though Dusty I found it cheaper to buy the uprated ones from TSS in Aus than buy Gen Yamaha here Steve
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Post by fatfastroger on Nov 10, 2012 23:43:53 GMT 1
No I meant the clutch arm bearing...
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Post by dusty350 on Nov 17, 2012 12:44:20 GMT 1
Hi, When I removed the clutch arm bearing on the Hybrids motor, I had a difficult time getting it out - took ages. This time I prised the inner cage out along with the needle rollers, which allowed for an expanding rawl bolt to just fit inside the bearing shell. Then from the underside - I had the cases in half - I used a punch on the bolt of the rawl bolt and it knocked the bearing shell out with no damage to the cases. Took seconds rather than hours Cases all nice and clean now and ready for a slow rebuild; Gonna start at the bottom, so have ordered a neutral switch and O ring, shift drum bearing, new clutch bearing and seal, new gear shaft seal and some various circlips. All internal bolts will be stainless as before. I'll post pics as I progress. Dusty
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m1ke
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 399
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Post by m1ke on Nov 17, 2012 20:06:53 GMT 1
Thats a neat way of getting the clutch release bearing out....
What size rawl bolt did you use?
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