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Post by jackjabba on Sept 13, 2014 11:19:29 GMT 1
My LC 2 is still rattling after doing the Water pump bearing which was loose. Pulled the engine cover today as someone said to check that it wasn't the clutch. The clutch basket fingers are in good condition, no grooves.
The clutch drum can be rotated back and forth on its gear by 1 full tooth.
How much play should there be, is this normal.
cheers Jack
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Post by LC_BOTT on Sept 13, 2014 12:06:26 GMT 1
I think this is normal, there are some cushioning rubbers inside the drum, can't remember how much movement mine had, but I was suprised too, never came across it before, think you might be able to replace them, but will need the rivets drilling out etc etc
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Post by Yogi on Sept 13, 2014 13:34:19 GMT 1
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Post by steeley on Sept 13, 2014 18:31:38 GMT 1
yes nk racing sell the rubbers .the job is not to hard to do ,should be plenty of info on it.i still have to fit a new basket with rubbers on my tzr 350 may be this winter eh.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Sept 13, 2014 18:39:25 GMT 1
Got wiseco ones off eBay in mine.
Don't be too hung up on the clutch basket.
I had the rattle and have changed the basket for a billet one, new rubbers, mew bush, new thrust washers and new bearing. Best part of £300
Guess what........
.......still facking rattles.
Now found end float on the input shaft so gave up and just been thrashing the shit out of it.
Steve
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Post by jackjabba on Sept 13, 2014 20:12:07 GMT 1
Thanks for the info guys.
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Post by Roberto on Sept 13, 2014 21:00:57 GMT 1
Mine developed a horrible rattle from the clutch just above tick-over. Turned out to be the hub nut not tight enough, it was reasonably tight but not up to the torque setting (70lb rings a bell) and I know that it had never been apart before so might be worth a check. There was a very small amount of play parallel to the input shaft which made the same knocking noise when pulled in/out rapidly. Basically I took it all apart, found nothing conclusive wrong but after reassembling and torquing it up the ratttle has gone.
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Post by Delbert on Sept 14, 2014 8:21:40 GMT 1
I got fed up chasing rattles around , I guess it is 34 years old ! ..... Louder they rattle the faster they go ))))
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Post by jackjabba on Sept 14, 2014 10:55:13 GMT 1
Mine developed a horrible rattle from the clutch just above tick-over. Turned out to be the hub nut not tight enough, it was reasonably tight but not up to the torque setting (70lb rings a bell) and I know that it had never been apart before so might be worth a check. There was a very small amount of play parallel to the input shaft which made the same knocking noise when pulled in/out rapidly. Basically I took it all apart, found nothing conclusive wrong but after reassembling and torquing it up the ratttle has gone. Roberto, that's a good shout, I was able to undo the clutch nut with just my normal socket wrench, with no real effort. The previous owner seems to have forgotten to bend the tab washer correctly as well. I am debating weather to strip the engine down totally and build it back up myself, just so that I know its all done correctly. Had a bad rattle on a 4LO once, turned out to be the flywheel nut was loose.
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Post by jackjabba on Sept 14, 2014 10:59:10 GMT 1
I got fed up chasing rattles around , I guess it is 34 years old ! ..... Louder they rattle the faster they go )))) Guess we are that use to the silky smooth running of modern water cooled 4 strokes that we forget what old two strokes sounded like.
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Post by stusco on Sept 14, 2014 19:18:58 GMT 1
Mine developed a horrible rattle from the clutch just above tick-over. Turned out to be the hub nut not tight enough, it was reasonably tight but not up to the torque setting (70lb rings a bell) and I know that it had never been apart before so might be worth a check. There was a very small amount of play parallel to the input shaft which made the same knocking noise when pulled in/out rapidly. Basically I took it all apart, found nothing conclusive wrong but after reassembling and torquing it up the ratttle has gone. My book and anywhere I find online say's 47 lb/ft
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Post by Tobyjugs on Sept 14, 2014 21:33:08 GMT 1
Doesn't anyone own a Ducati
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Sept 15, 2014 7:57:08 GMT 1
Doesn't anyone own a Ducati Agree, they sound like a bag of rocks and no one complains Steve
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Post by Roberto on Sept 15, 2014 12:04:51 GMT 1
Mine developed a horrible rattle from the clutch just above tick-over. Turned out to be the hub nut not tight enough, it was reasonably tight but not up to the torque setting (70lb rings a bell) and I know that it had never been apart before so might be worth a check. There was a very small amount of play parallel to the input shaft which made the same knocking noise when pulled in/out rapidly. Basically I took it all apart, found nothing conclusive wrong but after reassembling and torquing it up the ratttle has gone. My book and anywhere I find online say's 47 lb/ft Ok go with that. My Haynes manual states 65lb/ft for the clutch centre nut, and 47lb/ft for the primary drive gear. As I said 70lb/ft was just off the top off my head.
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Post by stusco on Sept 15, 2014 13:30:30 GMT 1
My Haynes says 65 nm or 47 lb/ft for clutch nut and primary drive and 61 lb/ft for the fly wheel or 85nm
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Post by jackjabba on Sept 15, 2014 13:56:59 GMT 1
My Haynes says
Primary drive gear 6.5 kgf/m 47.0 lbf/ft Clutch centre nut 9.0 kgf/m 65.0 lbf/ft
anyone got the Yamaha Service manual?
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Post by stusco on Sept 15, 2014 17:35:43 GMT 1
s520.photobucket.com/user/stusco/media/imagejpg2-1.jpg.html] [/URL] i think this will work why are the Haynes manuals different , I need to know the correct setting as I've only torqued to 47 lb/ft
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Post by jackjabba on Sept 15, 2014 18:02:47 GMT 1
Looks like the page was copied from the 4LO Haynes to the YPVS Haynes. Even then the 4lo Haynes says primary drive nut 46lbf ft and clutch nut 54lbf ft in the torque settings, which does not match.
Look at page 34, Torque wrench settings for the YPVS. 46 and 65
I
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Post by stusco on Sept 15, 2014 18:43:58 GMT 1
Got it thanks ,Haynes manuals are a joke no proof readers
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Sept 15, 2014 19:36:33 GMT 1
Don't know what the fack mine is torqued at now
Steve
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Post by stusco on Sept 15, 2014 21:09:06 GMT 1
Aye so what's right 47 or 65?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Sept 15, 2014 21:39:02 GMT 1
What size tread is it? If you know this you can cross reference it probabily 8.8 or 12.9 grade material
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Post by stusco on Sept 15, 2014 22:32:53 GMT 1
32mm socket do maybe 19mm fine
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Post by stusco on Sept 15, 2014 22:36:18 GMT 1
Whoops I mean 20mm
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Sept 16, 2014 8:21:28 GMT 1
Aye so what's right 47 or 65? This is a big problem. Rebuilt a DT125 engine the other year and torqued the balancer shaft bolt to the (wrong) torque as per the manual and ripped the threads clean off. Had to split cases again and pay £25 for another shaft. Not happy Steve
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Post by stusco on Sept 16, 2014 10:46:14 GMT 1
Ok I'm going to take my clutch back off and tighten the nut to 65lb/ft the fit the clutch with the damper rings ,unless anyone thinks it's better to leave them out
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Post by neil350 on Sept 16, 2014 15:36:56 GMT 1
Fitted genuine plates and damper rings to my F2 works a treat. As they get old the damper rings compress and are not as effective. Compare new to old and theres a suprising difference.
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