|
Post by jon on Jun 21, 2022 22:51:31 GMT 1
2R8 (or 2R9) carbs were ‘supposed’ to a good upgrade for a YPVS ‘back in the day’ as they were true 28mm instead of 28mm to 26mm.
Even got a set myself for that reason. In reality, there is no real world difference to note.
I imagine not the end of the world to jet though? As mentioned its the choke that might be the deciding factor.
Jon
|
|
|
Calipers
Jun 21, 2022 13:42:50 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by jon on Jun 21, 2022 13:42:50 GMT 1
I can’t remember whether it was the NK adapters and these calipers, but I’m sure someone said they had to fettle them a bit around the fork mounts?
If so better trial fit before anodizing etc.
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 19, 2022 8:51:20 GMT 1
I don’t get the list of supposedly new genuine parts that have been catalogued. There not in new condition after they’ve been painted, like the wheels and heads.
I also don’t believe the list 100%. For instance the list states a new crank was used, part number 2R9-11400-00 (second page, penultimate entry). However the description says: ”the crankshaft was re-built and balanced using new bearings, con-rods, crank pins, big end bearings, thrust washers, all four main bearings, centre labyrinth and outer oil seals.”
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 18, 2022 9:44:22 GMT 1
Have you considered keeping the YPVS cylinders and doing a 385?
Banshee and YPVS crank is the same 29L-11400-30.
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 17, 2022 18:26:07 GMT 1
tony2stroke, as I said I’d agree with you usually, I’m not a fan of 2 up one side. I remember coming up behind 125 boy racers and seeing them open it up to try and race me. Depending on mood sometimes I let the steam off into the distance, or sometimes teach them a cc lesson. I’m sure the ones that ‘get away’ say down the pub “I burnt a 350 off today”. You could have fun with a bike like that looking like a 125. Almost the reverse of above. Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 17, 2022 17:56:56 GMT 1
There are always exceptions to any simple rule of a vehicle being over 40 years old being historic, and being MOT exempt. While I see it as a good thing, it’s purely a combination of I know my vehicles are roadworthy, and appreciate not having to fork out unnecessarily.
My local MOT station used to offer an MOT for an over 40 year old vehicle for half price. Regular customers I expect?
It’s a funny one as I also see both sides of the fence of a new vehicle not needing an MOT until over 3 years. I bought a 1 year old scooter once, and completely nut and bolt stripped it, re sprayed it, uprated the engine heavily and it didn’t need an MOT for a while once together again. I know it was perfectly roadworthy, but anyone could have done this and created a death trap?
With bikes I think it’s much more of a mute point. Anyone with a bike over 40 years old is going to want it road worthy as the consequences are potentially life threatening, as opposed to a car.
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 17, 2022 17:28:12 GMT 1
Another one here. A Mito with a 1KT engine on ebay at the moment. Doesn't look bad, but some bigger phots might be better. Never understood adverts with postage stamp sized pictures. Normally trying to hide something you "may" let go when there, but wouldn't travel if you knew, or that's my experience anyway. With a nice coat of paint, and a pipe either side, instead of both same side, that I like. Usually I’d agree with a pipe up each side any day. However in this one off case I’d disagree. I’d of brought the two stingers together and had 1 large endcan. It would have made it much more sleeperish (is that a word?). Looking like it’s original 125. Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 12, 2022 12:35:09 GMT 1
If I leave a set with you for sixteen weeks will you do them half price? 🤣
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 12, 2022 10:24:47 GMT 1
I was doing my usual Sunday eBay search, and I can’t get over the number of LC’s for sale at crazy prices. I know we’re approaching summer and a lot of bikes sell roundabout now; but there is definately a lot to choose from (if you want to pay big) at the moment.
1 for £15k, 7 for around £12k and another 10 for £8k and above.
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 12, 2022 8:46:07 GMT 1
What wheels are those? Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 12, 2022 8:42:22 GMT 1
You'd better speak to Mick, he may be able to do it quickly, you never know No spacer is best and bin the head gasket Head domes will need recut for volume and correct squish to compensate for massive standard squish/head gasket thickness/extra stroke Remember a +4 crank uses 5mm longer conrods to reduce the side thrust so you need Wiseco 795 pistons which have 5mm less pin offset to compensate They only come in 0.5mm increments Porting wise the biggest thing is dropping the transfer and exhaust port floors to the piston crown height at BDC The usual inlet butchery too 🤣 Steve When I spoke with Mick about having mine done, I’m sure he said while he drops the floor of the transfers to coincide with the new BDC, he didn’t quite do the same for the exhaust port? Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 11, 2022 12:26:35 GMT 1
As Steve says, mutts is capable of doing the head work, but check his availability. He done mine and did a very nice job. Recessed,skimmed flat and o-ringed.
Even offered a choice of finish. Top lad.
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 11, 2022 12:18:19 GMT 1
Those Brembo’s do look good. They look very similar to my Triumph calipers on my F2. Do you think Brembo made them for Triumph with their badge on? Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 11, 2022 12:12:52 GMT 1
Tut, tut, tut.......6 pot R1 radial calipers on an LC may just be a tad overkill me thinks!🤔😁😂 Yes totally, who would be stupid enough to fit radial calipers to an LC 😬 Steve Steve, why did you have to go and post that picture up. I was contemplating sending my bodywork off to Mark Cordwell next week or so. I was going for pure white and 3 blue stripes. That picture has got me dithering now. Dumb you 🤣 Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 11, 2022 10:37:23 GMT 1
I really like the idea of these. How do you know what program your running? Do you set a deliberately low power one so when you cycle through the different programs you can feel it and know where you are?
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 11, 2022 10:30:54 GMT 1
If you buy an Ignitech from Muttsnuts he will pre program it for you 👍 Steve That’s handy to know as he will know what settings it needs for each bike. However is the software free? Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 11, 2022 9:28:29 GMT 1
I got Mick Abbey to do mine. Haven’t run it yet, but it looks good.
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 8, 2022 18:06:12 GMT 1
Last night my wife told me two things. The first was I don’t listen to her, and the second was … I’ve forgotten.
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 6, 2022 10:49:53 GMT 1
dusty350 it was rolie that had them made. He got 50 made and sold them all I think? Don’t know if he’s had another batch made? Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 6, 2022 4:59:49 GMT 1
I use Athena head gaskets normally and always do a heat cycle before adding he coolant. I think it helps the bonding/sealing process. I run engine for just a few mins, never timed it but just until it feels hot to the touch. Let it cool down, then retorque. Not had a problem so far. I guess we all have our methods and we all probably take more care than we did 40 years ago. As you say, I do the same. Only a very short time before stopping, cooling then re-torquing and filling with fluids. Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 5, 2022 16:34:15 GMT 1
This is one of those subjects that will have divided camps, both in the past and future.
I’m in the first fire up without fluids. The genuine gaskets have some kind of rubber which tends to stick to barrel and head. Filling it with coolant before firing it up can cause the coolant to cause a barrier.
Just think about an Air Cooled bike. You would fire that up after a rebuild for a few minutes before re-torquing the head. What’s the difference?
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 5, 2022 8:38:14 GMT 1
Ebay is full of chancers like this. What I don’t get is surely they are aware it’s overpriced, and are just trying it on? I can’t see the point really of wasting time listing items and checking on them when they are clearly highly unlikely to sell?
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 5, 2022 7:34:24 GMT 1
Silky White and Stormy Red are the metallic's used on the 84 LC2 and 85 F1 Clean White and Chappy Red are the flat colour's used on the N1, N2 and F2. Pretty sure apart from the tank nothing else is clear coated on the 84 LC2. My bike is all original Yamaha factory paint and when I've used furniture polish....yeah Pledge, on the bikini fairing, side panels or tail section can't press too hard or the red colour comes off on the cloth, ouch!🤔 Gotta be pretty careful not too over polish it or...... you're gonna go right through the paint!😩 As Jon says I’m not sure that’s the case 100%. I was sure my U.K. F2 was stormy white. Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 4, 2022 7:33:50 GMT 1
I’m surprised at the mention of ford diamond white being a match for stormy white. I thought stormy white was a sort of pearl colour, whereas diamond white is solid?
Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 3, 2022 8:20:59 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 3, 2022 8:15:22 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 3, 2022 7:13:57 GMT 1
Kinda, but not really. There had already been 350 and 400 versions of the AC 2T parallel twin so making a 350 of the water cooled unit was always something marketing would want. Many countries had concessions for 250s and one was Japan hence most things RD started as a 250. Ie. In uk it was about learner laws and in Aus it was about 'road tax' etc. The USA and Canada wanted bigger engines and had no concessions, hence only had the bigger engines in almost all models. The loss of the learner law in the uk meant no ypvs sold there, whereas in Japan and Aus they sold way more 250s of those models than 350. The old twin was designed as a small engine from the start, everything is balanced for a 250 and that is why the rev so well. The lineage of the engine goes back to the 60s etc. The Lc was just another in the line of RDs (well it is really an RZ as Z means watercooling) so got the same treatment. The tie bars was something i guess the AC models (I know nothing about AC bikes) didnt have and didnt need, perhaps cos they didnt make the power of a watercooled machine? Jon, I don’t think it has anything to do with the ‘power of a water cooled machine’. As mentioned earlier the engine vibrates with harmonics around idle speed. I suspect, although can’t remember if a 350 is worse than a 250? Also mentioned is the fact it’s dimensions are better suited to the 250 being a square bore and stroke @54 which is what I’ve read is ideal. The 350 pistons must upset this balance to an extent. Interesting you say the Z means water cooled. This can’t be the case in all applications around the same time. What about the TDR 250? I knew usually R denotes a 2 stroke and F a 4 stroke, but don’t know if it’s actually an abbreviation? Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on Jun 2, 2022 9:23:12 GMT 1
I don't know about Allsppeds, but I usually find the flange doesn't connect to the barrel when fitting none standard pipes, making the paper gasket redundant. My Allspeeds have a flange that sits flush to the exhaust gasket face. I assume they all do. rdlccrazy.proboards.com/post/163880I know Microns don’t, which is a poor design so I made some much better ones for my Microns. rdlccrazy.proboards.com/post/433710Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on May 31, 2022 12:49:08 GMT 1
Bizarrely, he was about 19 years old and had no idea what an RD359 was… bless He did try though, but there is no stock of this part in the UK or Japan so, another one bites the dust… I’ve got no idea what an RD 359 is either? 😂 Jon
|
|
|
Post by jon on May 31, 2022 10:56:08 GMT 1
I think you’ll find it is 5/16” for a YPVS. 93515-32029 £1.84 from you local Yamaha dealer. Or push the boat out and get a ceramic one from Norbo for £10 and it will never seize. The LC is a smaller metric size, but I can’t remember what size. Anyone? Jon Dusty measured one for me at 7.9mm. The one I found in my box is 7.8mm. Dusty’s is closer to the 7.94mm it should be (ie 5/16” as said). Jon
|
|