POORLY 125 LC

[LC'Adam]

OK so as you know put a Nikon pipe on my 125. Went for a blast, seamed to go well.

My temp gage is broken but, heat seamed to be building up in the head and cylinder

Thought it might be the main jet.

Did a chop, biscuit brown.

But, 4 times now it has died on me (like it has ran out of fuel) when accelerating, switched onto reserve (even though tank is half full) and now its fine.

It seamed to get hot allot quicker than it did before with my micron fitted, it even has started to blow coolant out the rad and into the expansion bottle

Again suspected jetting.

But wait, plug is perfect.

Changed back to my micron.

Still over heats.

Water pump is pumping, no air locks.

Looked in exhaust port and piston has gone brown on that side.

My guess is that the cutting out is down to a clogged pet c**k but i have no idea what is causing it to over heat

To add to all this, bled the cooling system with the screw on the cylinder and the fookin threads broke when i tightened it back up.

So now drips coolant from the bleed screw all the time

Glad its winter to be honest cause the 'to do' list is longer than my arm and will also cost me a mint at this rate.

STUPID 2 STROKES

Adam

[johnlc]

If the petc**k is not letting enough fuel through it will be making it run weak

[looey]

That "bleed screw" on the cylinder is actually a drain screw for when you drain the coolant out . There's no need to bleed air on these, it finds it's own way out and you just top up the rad if/when the level drops. Has the thread gone in the cylinder ?, if so you may get away temporarily screwing it back in with some PTFE tape around the bolt ?(just a suggestion to maybe stop it dripping for now).

Without the temp guage working it's difficult to say what's going on with the engine or how hot it is getting ?.

When I first bought my 125LC it was doing the same as yours and pushing water into the expansion tank. That was purely that fact that the head gasket had gone. Changed the head gasket and been perfect ever since.

Might be a good idea to fix the temp guage before doing anything else ?.

[johnlc]

Sorry never read post properly ,looks like the head gasket is shot

[LC'Adam]

Yes, possibly looey.

Just bodged up the drain plug. When it was fully cooled off and went for another run with a full radiator. It is only pushing a small amount into the bottle but it shouldn't push any.

The thing that is really baffling me is how quickly it gets hot. Before I poped the Nikon on it used to take an age to warm up.

The clutch used to slip for a good 10 Min's until it warmed up.

Now it just get really hot really quick, no cluch slip nor nothing.

Does your end can get very hot on your LC looey?

I mean, even though I think it is overheating it still runs fine.

No power loss at all.

As for the temperature gage.

The sender is snapped off in the head

Yet another job to be done

Adam.

[LC'Adam]

Yes john, I am leaning toward that as well but would this cause it to over heat

I suppose if it is pressurising the system it will reduce the cooling efficiency.

Adam

[looey]

They do push a bit of coolant to the expansion tank when working correctly, I'd say from stone cold to hot it will probably go up an inch or two then when it cools down it should go back to where it was before.

Yeah my end can gets hot, bloody hot (no pun jokes please)

If the spade has snapped off the temp sender you should be able to solder a wire back onto the centre and get it wired up again. It's the same sender as a 250/350LC if you need to buy another ?.

[LC'Adam]

Right, so,

I thourght I would also say that there was a black gunge around the rad cap when I first removed it. Someone told me this point to the head gasket.

Also looey, how is the bottle linked up to the rad on yours?

Pipe from the bottom of the expansion bottle to the rad cap?

And at the top of the bottle, a push fit rubber cap with an overflow pipe coming from it?

Does a blown head gasket make it over heat?

Adam

[LC'Adam]

Right gaz, I'm sure we can come to some arrangement