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Post by LC'Adam on Jun 1, 2010 13:24:39 GMT 1
Ok guys,
MkII, got a fully rebuild engine, all electrics are spot on.
Engine is made up of 10v inlet, 10w cylinder, 10v head, (not sure about bottom end as it had been restamped)
What is the best combination of parts to use on my KR speical?
I have-
Allspeed Big can
Micron Big can
Nikkon Race pipe
12A carb (no ledar fitted)
10v carb
Unmodified air box
K and N cone
Ram air foam
Should I ledar the 12A?
Should I scource a 10W?
Should I mod the 10V?
What jetting should i start at?
No luck with it so far, runns, but badly.
Can't test it as it is not T&Ted nor insured.
Its driving me mad guys, please help.
Adam
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grunt
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 365
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Post by grunt on Jun 1, 2010 15:54:36 GMT 1
not a master mind at this but my rd125lc has got a micron small can a 12a carb with leadar kit foam pod filter and boyseen reeds and im running a 250 main jet so i recon nikkon race pipe 12a carb with leader kit (if you cant find a 10w) foam pod (if you like induction roar) you'll need a 230-240ish main jet  plug chop test as everyone says the best carb is a 10w which are getting like hens teeth and making a fortune on the bay ;D sure others will confirm jetting with a 10w carb //standard airbox ect grunt  |
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Post by LC'Adam on Jun 1, 2010 18:58:54 GMT 1
Do you run a port/polish tune Grunt? Aslo is a lightened fly wheel much good?
Also, can any one suggest a good way to clean 25 years of crap out of the spanny and end can?
Thanks
Adam
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grunt
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 365
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Post by grunt on Jun 1, 2010 19:36:54 GMT 1
i took a dremel to my inlet ports and polished them as well as exhaust port looked into the lightened flywheel got told it will higher it by a few hundred rpm but it makes the bottem end basically non-existant got this off another forum everyone has different methods for things heres a few grunt If your pipe is full of carbon (black crap) there are a number of ways to get at least some of it out. First the cowboy methods: 1. Remove the exhaust, get a rubber or hide mallett, use the mallett to batter the silencer so that some of the crap comes out the front pipe. It helps if you can get the baffles out because they tend to get bunged up. This will ruin the exhaust, and if it's going a bit rusty it will likely fall apart. 2. Pour petrol in the exhaust and set it on fire, wait for the fire to go out then use method number one to batter all the crap out. Apart from being as bad for the exhaust as the first method it carries a good risk of serious burns to yourself and others. Now the proper method: Go to the chemist and buy some caustic soda. They have to ask you what you want it for by law, tell them it's for de-coking your motorbike exhaust. I used 2 packets last time I did this. Take the exhaust off the bike. Find something to plug the front hole with like a sink plug - it's gotta be a good fit. Get a plastic dustbin and fill it to the top with water. Get a bucket and fill that with warm water. Put on some marigolds and SLOWLY add the caustic soda to the bucket of water, give it a stir. IMPORTANT: DO NOT put the caustic soda in the bucket first or you'll get very badly burnt when you add the water. DONT get the caustic soda on your skin or you'll get severe burns. If you splash yourself with the water/soda mix, get your hands into the dustbin fast and wash it off. Plug the end of the exhaust and pour the bucketful of water/caustic soda mix into the other end of the exhaust until it's full. Next, pick up the whole exhaust, and put it in the dustbin full of water. This is to stop the mixture from running out of any leaks. Leave it overnnight, in the morning you should be able to tip out a sludgy black gunge from the pipe and it will be unblocked. |
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Post by carlos on Jun 2, 2010 17:47:09 GMT 1
You can buy caustic soda from Tesco or B&Q, no questions asked!
You may be better getting an adult to buy it tho Grunt!
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grunt
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 365
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Post by grunt on Jun 2, 2010 21:46:27 GMT 1
i get it where i work for free ;D ;D
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gadget
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 263
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Post by gadget on Jun 2, 2010 22:32:50 GMT 1
i get it where i work for free ;D ;D Hope that's not a 'five finger discount' m8 ;D |
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grunt
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 365
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Post by grunt on Jun 3, 2010 1:14:02 GMT 1
na its only about 2-3 quid so they let me off ;D
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Post by Norbo on Jun 8, 2010 8:31:03 GMT 1
I concure with grunt on the set up and pipe choice.
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Post by racerd on Aug 22, 2010 0:22:33 GMT 1
set squish to 0.96/run flat slide carb with spacer tube and filter of your choice/open out reed stops till they rub on the inlet side of barrel/port exhaust port = make wider and 1mm to 3 mm higher also port exhaust port chamber to match exhaust port/run pre mix/ port inlet port so this stays open all the time then reeds control flow/run tzr piston kit/port reed block and flow it and polish it and the same with piston crown,combustion chamber and exhaust port/ run ledar kit/might need to up jet pilot jet for part throttle running/spark plug br9ev or br9egv or irridium/
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Post by racerd on Aug 22, 2010 0:23:31 GMT 1
Ok guys, MkII, got a fully rebuild engine, all electrics are spot on. Engine is made up of 10v inlet, 10w cylinder, 10v head, (not sure about bottom end as it had been restamped) What is the best combination of parts to use on my KR speical? I have- Allspeed Big can Micron Big can Nikkon Race pipe 12A carb (no ledar fitted) 10v carb Unmodified air box K and N cone Ram air foam Should I ledar the 12A? Should I scource a 10W? Should I mod the 10V? What jetting should i start at? No luck with it so far, runns, but badly. Can't test it as it is not T&Ted nor insured. Its driving me mad guys, please help. Adam in what way does your motor run bad? |
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