350n2/rgv conversion

[terry700lc]

just got my front usd and rear banana parts from breaker today.is there anyone who can give me the imformation that i need on what adjustments and alterations that need to be made.i have only seen completed projects and dont want to make a mess first time out measure twice cut once type of thing thanks

[scott]

try vin on here he might beable to help.
www.vinsbuilds.proboards.com/index.cgi

[nikfubar]

This is an easy conversion, done two of them ;D
The swing arm just needs the spacers under the dust caps removed and a couple of spindle reducers machined up and it slides straight in. The bottom linkage is connected to a kit which bolts onto the centre stand mount and the shock top mount is just a couple of top hat spacers. There is a web site that has all the engineering drawings to have these parts machined up but I'm dammed if i can find it at the moment. I think NK racing does the kits as well.

The forks are an easy fit you just need a 6mm spacer under the bottom taper bearing, I use one of the hardened ball race cups, turn it upside down and you have your spacer.
You then need to cut off the rgv steering stops and make new ones I've found the easiest way is to drill and tap into the bottom yoke and fit M10 allen bolts.
You also have to cut off the old steering lock and weld on new new lugs to accept the RGV ignition switch steering lock.

[midlifecrisisrd]

May 29, 2010 23:23:59 GMT 1 nikfubar said:

This is an easy conversion, done two of them ;D
The swing arm just needs the spacers under the dust caps removed and a couple of spindle reducers machined up and it slides straight in. The bottom linkage is connected to a kit which bolts onto the centre stand mount and the shock top mount is just a couple of top hat spacers. There is a web site that has all the engineering drawings to have these parts machined up but I'm dammed if i can find it at the moment. I think NK racing does the kits as well.

The forks are an easy fit you just need a 6mm spacer under the bottom taper bearing, I use one of the hardened ball race cups, turn it upside down and you have your spacer.
You then need to cut off the rgv steering stops and make new ones I've found the easiest way is to drill and tap into the bottom yoke and fit M10 allen bolts.
You also have to cut off the old steering lock and weld on new new lugs to accept the RGV ignition switch steering lock.

As Nick says, google NK racing, Nigel does a complete kit for the rear end, £125, just fitted one. He will also supply the spacer for the front and an offset front sprocket to correct the alignment. I think the RD and the RGV have the same stem diameter so you can use the RD taper bearings. Good idea with the M10 allen bolts Nick, will keep that in mind, easier than getting the stops welded back on. As for the steering stop remove all the old brackets and simply weld a bit of 3mm plate onto the headstock for the lock pin and grind the rd ign switch to clear it and use a couple of spacers to move it down from the yoke mount.

[nikfubar]

For the offset sprocket, fit everything else first then check the offset needed.
For some unknown reason they are different from bike to bike first one I did was 5mm out and the second one 10mm

[seanrd]

Ive got a copy of the plans nikfubar mentioned in PDF form, pm me your email address and i can send them to you

[brains]

Im doing the same thing only with arolling chasis of an RD250LC, with a 350 ypvs engine and the rgv running gear. So im gonna use this to post my first pic


This is the Bottom Yoke with holes drilled and tapped for M8 Allen Bolt and a nut to give the correct height. Seems to work fine. I made the spacer for the steering stem one of my first lathe jobs, Steep learning curve for me. Need to master welding next.

This is it taped off ready for paint. This is the easy bit tho the hard bit is paying for all the nice stuff youll want.

[nikfubar]

That's the way I did it as well ;D you going to grind off the old lugs ?