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Post by 4l04ever on Oct 22, 2024 19:26:42 GMT 1
I could not find much information on this so I thought it was time for a technical guide...
Standard round push-in connectors can usually be removed with the tube-shaped tools, but not these....
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Post by 4l04ever on Oct 22, 2024 19:28:21 GMT 1
Housing pics.   |
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Post by 4l04ever on Oct 22, 2024 19:29:41 GMT 1
Connector pics.   |
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Post by 4l04ever on Oct 22, 2024 19:36:40 GMT 1
Normally the tube connector removing tool would slide over the connector part and push the tangs in to allow the connector to be pulled out from the back of the connector, but due to the 4 ridges up the inside of the connector tubes, the tool will not go down far enough to push the tangs in.
I ended up using a Durite red connector removal tool. I used the thinnest single straight rectangular tool.
As a reference, the split in the connector is located at the 12'o'clock position when being referred to.
From the front of the connector, while keeping the wire to the connector pulled tight, I pushed it down one side the connector at the 3'o'clock position right to the bottom, then twisted it to bend the tang back into the connector. I then repeated this at the 9'o'clock position and pulled very hard until the cable was released.
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Post by 4l04ever on Oct 22, 2024 19:39:30 GMT 1
Durite red tool 0-703-99 The tool I used was the lower right one on this photo.  |
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Post by 4l04ever on Oct 22, 2024 19:40:38 GMT 1
The lumps on the connector go in-between the ridges so the connector will not rotate once fitted.
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Post by 4l04ever on Oct 22, 2024 19:44:24 GMT 1
If you are replacing the rubber boot on the stator wiring, you do not need to remove the cover from the single connector, as the rubber boot will fit over this.
You need to bend the tangs back out a little with a jeweller's screwdriver before refitting back in the housings.
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Post by JonW on Oct 23, 2024 7:42:13 GMT 1
I use the round tool, like the one 'bottom left' to do this as if its a good fit it releases all the tangs in one go.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Oct 23, 2024 8:47:03 GMT 1
There is a process to doing this
Buy the tool as pictured
Buy a box of plasters
Try to remove the connectors
Apply sticking plasters to the wounds
Try again with the tool
Repeat application of sticking plasters
Once 4 days have gone by and you can just about use your hand again snip off the connector, Buy a new one, crimp on new pins, job done
Steve 😁
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Post by urbantangleweed on Oct 23, 2024 10:08:03 GMT 1
There is a process to doing this Buy the tool as pictured Buy a box of plasters Try to remove the connectors Apply sticking plasters to the wounds Try again with the tool Repeat application of sticking plasters Once 4 days have gone by and you can just about use your hand again snip off the connector, Buy a new one, crimp on new pins, job done Steve 😁   |
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Post by 4l04ever on Oct 23, 2024 18:38:48 GMT 1
I use the round tool, like the one 'bottom left' to do this as if its a good fit it releases all the tangs in one go. The round tubular tool does not work on the connectors on my stator wiring due to the 4 ridges on the inside of the connector. That is why I put the photos up, as it is obvious once you see that. I think the after-market replacement connectors are different to the OEM ones and the round tubular tool may work on those. There could be different OEM ones too if they came from different suppliers. |
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Post by JonW on Oct 23, 2024 23:24:52 GMT 1
If the tool is thin enough then it will fit, thats how Ive always done this.
I'll give your way a go Rob, but agree with Steve... this is always a mare of a job and you have to be really careful or you'll need A&E.
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