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Post by dave2wheels on Jul 20, 2024 16:34:19 GMT 1
So I’m running in the 350LC engine in after rebuild , not getting passed 5000rpm at the moment, and thought it was vibey but discovered the biggest noise was coming from the kickstart.
Kick lever seems very loose, so was assuming I could fit a thin washer under the circlip to shim it, or any other suggestions?
Tried to start it last night, turn on fuel, too warm outside for choke I think, didn’t go after 3-4 prods, so went inside to get changed ready for ride, to return to find the fuel pouring out of overflow. Although I’d left the fuel tap on I wasn’t expecting that.
Think the rear brake lever is bent in too far as its hard to get my foot on it, haven’t checked how far it is from the kick start, in a good old fashioned phrase… “what does yours look like?”
Normal rebuild woes I think. Anyone in Surrey/Hants/Sussex want to do some miles, think fish and chips at the coast is calling
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tippy
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 210
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Post by tippy on Jul 20, 2024 17:24:37 GMT 1
Yorkshire and I would have been tempted!
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Post by stusco on Jul 20, 2024 17:53:50 GMT 1
Did the carbs get a rebuild sound like a sticky float or passing needle valve , the kick start is another rebuild rattle there is a repair for that,it will need choke to start from cold well in Scotland anyway,you should be able to bend the brake pedal straight I would bend it to where i want it
next you will probably hear how noisy the clutch is this is also normal
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Post by abar121 on Jul 20, 2024 18:00:57 GMT 1
Clean the float needle valve and seat and blow with air to make sure it's sealing.
Usually the kickstart only needs the ball and spring removing, a thorough clean and the spring stretched back out a little.
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Post by masonmart on Jul 20, 2024 18:02:55 GMT 1
Dave, seriously, their is no point in running in.
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Post by stusco on Jul 20, 2024 18:45:45 GMT 1
Dave, seriously, their is no point in running in. Why ? |
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Post by dusty350 on Jul 20, 2024 19:12:46 GMT 1
Norbo sells the kickstart repair kit. I've had one in the past and it improved it a lot. Someone here - cant remember who - did a mod by drilling all the way through and fitting a grub screw that then acted on the spring and BB with good results too.  |
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Post by urbantangleweed on Jul 20, 2024 19:51:36 GMT 1
Norbo sells the kickstart repair kit. I've had one in the past and it improved it a lot. Someone here - cant remember who - did a mod by drilling all the way through and fitting a grub screw that then acted on the spring and BB with good results too. That was me rdlccrazy.proboards.com/post/616321 |
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Post by masonmart on Jul 20, 2024 20:03:55 GMT 1
Dave, seriously, their is no point in running in. Why ? Because modern boring and honing make it unnecessary and coatings even less so. Modern processes give a finish that is crossed for oil retention and no need for running in as it's traditionally framed. A guideline is, if you want to be really careful let the engine go through 3 heat cycles without overloading or over-revving before riding as normal, "running in" any more than this will achieve nothing and equally good is to just ride well without badly overloading or overrevving the engine. Keeping it below a certain rpm for a certain number of miles is 1960's technology and is as bad as the concept of using running in oil. |
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Post by chrisg on Jul 20, 2024 21:58:40 GMT 1
Because modern boring and honing make it unnecessary and coatings even less so. Modern processes give a finish that is crossed for oil retention and no need for running in as it's traditionally framed. A guideline is, if you want to be really careful let the engine go through 3 heat cycles without overloading or over-revving before riding as normal, "running in" any more than this will achieve nothing and equally good is to just ride well without badly overloading or overrevving the engine. Keeping it below a certain rpm for a certain number of miles is 1960's technology and is as bad as the concept of using running in oil. Im not sure that the rebore process has changed that much. Most shops that carry out rebores do them on a boring bar to get near the finished size and then manually hone to a near perfect size for the piston clearance, leaving cross hatching ,as you say, that helps lubrication whilst running in. If you look at the surface under a microscope its far from perfect and all the little peaks and troughs have to wear each other away until the bike is "run in". Each to their own though. |
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Post by masonmart on Jul 20, 2024 22:57:48 GMT 1
Because modern boring and honing make it unnecessary and coatings even less so. Modern processes give a finish that is crossed for oil retention and no need for running in as it's traditionally framed. A guideline is, if you want to be really careful let the engine go through 3 heat cycles without overloading or over-revving before riding as normal, "running in" any more than this will achieve nothing and equally good is to just ride well without badly overloading or overrevving the engine. Keeping it below a certain rpm for a certain number of miles is 1960's technology and is as bad as the concept of using running in oil. Im not sure that the rebore process has changed that much. Most shops that carry out re-bores do them on a boring bar to get near the finished size and then manually hone to a near perfect size for the piston clearance, leaving cross hatching ,as you say, that helps lubrication whilst running in. If you look at the surface under a microscope its far from perfect and all the little peaks and troughs have to wear each other away until the bike is "run in". Each to their own though. Correct Chris, it isn't perfectly flat even after the use of a modern boring machine and honing but it is much better than the olden days in terms of finish and more importantly oil retention. The point is that any evening out that is going to happen, happens in a very short period perhaps just first ride out. Even in and since the 1960's there was a very large body of thrash 'em in opinion and it worked fine as it has with race machinery over the years which couldn't be run in. I'd say very much that no formal running in is an established good practice now and running at low revs in a purely arbitrary fashion for say 1000 miles is absolutely bad practice as engines wear least when operating under variable load conditions and only two states are really bad, high load and excessive rpm. I do tend to have firm thoughts but I really try to make sure that anything I say is correct not just opinion and engineering is my background. I would hope that rather than accepting the many myths of biking that we'll always ask why? |
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Post by urbantangleweed on Jul 21, 2024 7:08:13 GMT 1
Because modern boring and honing make it unnecessary and coatings even less so. Modern processes give a finish that is crossed for oil retention and no need for running in as it's traditionally framed. A guideline is, if you want to be really careful let the engine go through 3 heat cycles without overloading or over-revving before riding as normal, "running in" any more than this will achieve nothing and equally good is to just ride well without badly overloading or overrevving the engine. Keeping it below a certain rpm for a certain number of miles is 1960's technology and is as bad as the concept of using running in oil. I generally take it steady for the first tank of fuel, up the ante a bit for the second, then from the third tank, consider it run in. |
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Post by probo1965 on Jul 23, 2024 21:52:24 GMT 1
Can anyone suggest something for me to look at had my 350lc 4lo carbs ultrasonically cleaned rebuilt them both and now misfiring on left cylinder but fine on right any ideas appreciated lads/lasses cheers
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jul 23, 2024 22:08:18 GMT 1
Can anyone suggest something for me to look at had my 350lc 4lo carbs ultrasonically cleaned rebuilt them both and now misfiring on left cylinder but fine on right any ideas appreciated lads/lasses cheers [b Check float bowels fitted to correct side as diferent. Were carbs stripped of all brassware including the big brass ball and then ultrasinically cleaned and air circuit cleared? Heard so many stories about ultrasonically cleaned carbs yet when questioned i find they throw fully assembled carb into the cleaner for 20 mins and think its done. WTF! |
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Post by probo1965 on Jul 23, 2024 22:37:33 GMT 1
Can anyone suggest something for me to look at had my 350lc 4lo carbs ultrasonically cleaned rebuilt them both and now misfiring on left cylinder but fine on right any ideas appreciated lads/lasses cheers [b Check float bowels fitted to correct side as diferent. Were carbs stripped of all brassware including the big brass ball and then ultrasinically cleaned and air circuit cleared? Heard so many stories about ultrasonically cleaned carbs yet when questioned i find they throw fully assembled carb into the cleaner for 20 mins and think its done. WTF! Thamks for the swift reply will strip carbs again at weekend see if they are wrong way round was fine until got them cleaned from a mate who has a bath, i stripped them down all brassware put new standard main and pilot jets in and new float pin and gaskets but not sure how to nknow if they are the wrong way round  |
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Post by probo1965 on Jul 23, 2024 22:39:20 GMT 1
Not sure about the big brass ball mentioned quite a newbie apologies
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jul 23, 2024 23:21:04 GMT 1
Do a search on here. The LH bowl has a small hole to allow choke transfer to RH carb. You will find pics if you do a search on here.
Also search 'balls out' or 'air circuit' on here and you will find details how to remove the brass ball and clean carbs for that. Maybe not your problem but worth doing in any carb strip and clean due to modern fuels. Your mate may have done but worth an ask.
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