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Post by steve63 on May 27, 2024 21:22:47 GMT 1
First thing I did was a couple of weeks ago when I removed the battery from my R1. The bike is fitted with a Datatool Series 3 alarm. Not my choice, a condition of insurance, although that was in 2002. Now I've been reading about it I realise I should have put the alarm into 'Service' mode but being a spur of the moment guy (or idiot) I just disconnected it. Now having connected the battery again both the alarm and bike are dead. Nothing on the starter. All the bike fuses are good. Apparently the alarm has a fuse but I can't find it yet. I need to, preferably, remove the whole alarm or bypass it. Anyone done this or have an idea what I've done to it? Second thing I did was push the RGV out of the garage with the disc lock on. It spun around and snapped the plastic Speedo cable connection off. Bugger! I bought one in 2018 when it snapped before at Cadwell. They appear to be in much shorter supply now. There's always Fowlers at £172!!!! Someone in Greece is selling metal connectors to replace the plastic. I wish I could find that old broken one. I never throw anything away
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 27, 2024 21:40:05 GMT 1
Just checked my usual sites but the best I could find was CMS.NL at £102 which will then need post added or Wemote which should give you free shipping for £113 www.wemoto.com/parts/ae1647As for the alarm I remember my 2002 Fazer 1000 had a linked out multi plug under the seat. When I asked the dealer what it was for he said it was the alarm/immobiliser plug for when an alarm was fitted Steve
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Post by geoffb on May 27, 2024 22:25:55 GMT 1
For bypassing/disabling the Datatool, I followed this for my Triumph Daytona and it has worked like a charm for 2+ years now. Saved me £200+ at the dealers to have it properly removed.
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Post by steve63 on May 28, 2024 13:10:44 GMT 1
Just checked my usual sites but the best I could find was CMS.NL at £102 which will then need post added or Wemote which should give you free shipping for £113 www.wemoto.com/parts/ae1647As for the alarm I remember my 2002 Fazer 1000 had a linked out multi plug under the seat. When I asked the dealer what it was for he said it was the alarm/immobiliser plug for when an alarm was fitted Steve Thanks. I've just bought a Bandit 600 one for about £47. There are a few for £60/£65. Hopefully coughing up nearly £50 will remind me not to break this one When I fit it I'll strip the old one and do myself a CAD drawing of the part. I might see if one of the machine shops we use at work can make me a couple out of brass. I've seen the multi plugs for alarms on videos. There is at least one good video that explains how to link the alarm out inside the box. It all depends on how much effort I want to put into it but I'd like to get rid of the whole thing ideally.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 28, 2024 15:55:57 GMT 1
I didn't think bandit was the same unless you are going to just take the cable end bit
RF600 uses the same drive
Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 28, 2024 15:56:56 GMT 1
I had to dremel the wheel to get an rgv drive to work on a 400 bandit wheel
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 28, 2024 16:49:54 GMT 1
I stand corrected
Despite Fowlers not saying it fits anything ormther than the RF the part number is the same
Steve
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Post by steve63 on May 29, 2024 19:09:18 GMT 1
I stand corrected Despite Fowlers not saying it fits anything ormther than the RF the part number is the same Steve I was only searching RF600 but when I used the part number the Bandit 600 came up. I should be able to confirm it in a few days when I try fitting the new one.
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Post by steve63 on May 29, 2024 19:18:49 GMT 1
The R1 alarm is now disarmed. I guess I did myself a favour. I would have waited until it failed before I changed it and it would probably have been in an inconvenient place at an inconvenient time. Killing it in the garage was probably the best thing for me to do, forcing my hand. That's a before picture. I hesitated before posting an after picture, after all it's showing how to disarm an anti theft device, but there are lots of videos online showing you how to do it anyway. I'm sure it would go now but the battery is now at 9.5V. Time to admit defeat 😁 ![](https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240529/a2458100f6f58e641ddbc465e0e65be9.jpg)
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Post by steve63 on May 29, 2024 19:21:54 GMT 1
Oh and my mates leisure battery charged up in just a few hours after connecting it up to another one in parallel and charging both. Good shout suggesting it 👍. My mate is still struggling to believe it 😀
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Post by steve63 on May 31, 2024 12:00:08 GMT 1
I was hoping that the plastic threaded part of the drive had some kind of standard thread on it so I could take a screw or fitting of some kind and modify it to fit. It looked like an M10 x 1 thread like some hydraulic threads but the Vernier confirmed it's 10.9mm outside dia. so more like 11mm. The pitch looks like 1mm though it's hard to measure it.
The lad bought me a starter thing for Christmas a couple of years ago. About the size of those phone charger things you can buy but a bit chunkier. I connected it to the R1 battery and the bike started first push of the button. I now know the alarm issue is sorted and the starter thing really does work. I took it with me to Spain in 2022 and I'll be taking it again this year. Didn't need it in 2022 and hopefully not need it this time.
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Post by steve63 on Jun 1, 2024 11:05:08 GMT 1
A quick search and I'm surprised to find M11 X1 tap and die set for sale on eBay, so bought a set. The new drive arrived this morning so I'll have a go at fitting it maybe later and strip the old broken bit out. Also a photo of the starter/booster thing that I used on the R1. It comes with a few different cables to charge phones and sat-navs as well. Handy to have with you on most trips. ![](https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240601/7e7bae5544c2002b7d6527ec60a7de4c.jpg) ![](https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240601/27dae8eef6b43f0f96dea05e3ce6711e.jpg)
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