|
|
Post by mannanan on Dec 24, 2023 10:13:05 GMT 1
Standard F2 and never had its balls out. Bike seems to run well but noticed starting from cold takes about 7 kicks before springing into life. Sometimes runs for about 10 seconds on one cylinder before second chimes in. No major issue but just wondering if after 34 years those brass balls in the carbs really need to come out. Should have probably done it five years ago when I replaced the float valves but reluctant to interfere when things are running well. If it ain’t broke approach normally suits me but maybe I’m just being lazy. Would the relatively poor starting be a symptom of partially blocked circuit? Finally, I understand the balls are 4.5mm but any idea of the actual diameter of the passageway it protects. TIA.
|
|
|
|
Post by 4l04ever on Dec 24, 2023 10:21:59 GMT 1
Look at the carb settings here at the Airjet (AJ) size. Probably 0.7mm or 0.8mm but depends on model. rd350lc.net/pageSPECS.htm |
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 24, 2023 11:52:56 GMT 1
I find with the vac fuel tap if not being run every other day it need the tap put on prime for 30s or so before trying to start or it won't play the game
Steve
|
|
|
|
Post by muttsnuts on Dec 26, 2023 18:58:25 GMT 1
if it is standing unstarted for any period of time then as Steve says, put the fuel tap on prime for 30 seconds, then try it
|
|
|
|
Post by mannanan on Dec 26, 2023 22:07:53 GMT 1
Yes, I have tried that as it seemed the obvious thing to do but it made little difference to the starting. That’s why my mind drifted towards those brass balls but not sure how the circuit affects the starting. Just thought it might be worth doing but I don’t want to end up causing added problems by messing about with those balls if not needed.
|
|
|
|
Post by reedpete on Jan 2, 2024 19:24:15 GMT 1
Yes, I have tried that as it seemed the obvious thing to do but it made little difference to the starting. That’s why my mind drifted towards those brass balls but not sure how the circuit affects the starting. Just thought it might be worth doing but I don’t want to end up causing added problems by messing about with those balls if not needed. That air correction circuit has no influence on starting …so look elsewhere for the problem… blocked pilot jet and or bleed drilling? Blocked hole feeding the enrichment pot, float bowls muddled up last time you had them apart… those are the places that will affect cold starting. |
|
|
|
Post by 4l04ever on Jan 2, 2024 20:15:33 GMT 1
Pull the emulsion tubes out and have a look...
|
|
|
|
Post by reedpete on Jan 2, 2024 23:54:44 GMT 1
Agree that after those mikes it’s no doubt the emulsion tubes and passages could do with a clean… but it’s not the cause of problematic starting
|
|
|
|
Post by mannanan on Jan 3, 2024 10:10:10 GMT 1
Ok, thanks for the replies. Carbs were well cleaned last time I had them off. I am always particular in ensuring bowls are fitted correctly but I think I will do another carb overhaul in the spring. Just acquired one of Alan’s leak down kits as I have a nagging doubt about the base gasket leaking so it’s a top end overhaul when the weather warms up. Too old now for maintenance in unheated cold and draughty garages but I will still happily ride the bike.
|
|
