G
Weekend rider
Posts: 78
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Post by G on Jun 7, 2023 18:57:44 GMT 1
I’ve got a badly bent clutch activator arm/cam which I’m trying to remove on my 31k. I’ve removed the arm that holds it in place and taken the cable out of it however it won’t lift out (will move out a couple of inches only) Is it held in place internally by something? Any help gratefully received flic.kr/p/2oFKj6V
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 7, 2023 20:53:53 GMT 1
Hi Should pull straight up and out. Nothing holds it internally.
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G
Weekend rider
Posts: 78
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Post by G on Jun 7, 2023 21:12:19 GMT 1
Hi Should pull straight up and out. Nothing holds it internally. Thanks Dusty I definitely can’t remove it, any thoughts on what could be stopping it sliding out?
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 7, 2023 21:22:25 GMT 1
You say it's bent ? The shaft that goes into the casing ? Have you tried rotating it and pulling upwards at the same time ?
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G
Weekend rider
Posts: 78
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Post by G on Jun 7, 2023 21:36:02 GMT 1
You say it's bent ? The shaft that goes into the casing ? Have you tried rotating it and pulling upwards at the same time ? You can see how it’s bent in this picture flic.kr/p/2oFKj6VI’ll give it another go tomorrow but it feels and though it’s catching on something when I try and lift it out. Anything clutch I can remove to make it easier for it slide out?
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 7, 2023 21:43:10 GMT 1
If the side casing is off, you could remove the pressure plate and withdraw the clutch push rod and see if that helps. There is a bearing in the top casing, below the spring. I wonder if that is causing a problem ? That actuator does look pretty bent. What's the story with that ?
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G
Weekend rider
Posts: 78
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Post by G on Jun 7, 2023 21:55:35 GMT 1
If the side casing is off, you could remove the pressure plate and withdraw the clutch push rod and see if that helps. There is a bearing in the top casing, below the spring. I wonder if that is causing a problem ? That actuator does look pretty bent. What's the story with that ? Ok I think I might do that as I don’t want to force it. I have no idea why it’s bent like that but the clutch needs attention anyway so worth digging deeper. Thanks for the responses
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 7, 2023 22:01:33 GMT 1
No problem. The fact it's bent may be enough on it's own to stop it pulling out as it should. It's a fairly snug fit in the bearing (obviously) so it could just be binding. Removing the pushrod and pressure plate will allow more wriggle room for sure Good luck
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G
Weekend rider
Posts: 78
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Post by G on Jun 7, 2023 22:06:36 GMT 1
No problem. The fact it's bent may be enough on it's own to stop it pulling out as it should. It's a fairly snug fit in the bearing (obviously) so it could just be binding. Removing the pushrod and pressure plate will allow more wriggle room for sure Good luck Thanks Dusty
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 7, 2023 22:17:56 GMT 1
You need to have the clutch pressure plate off and the pushrod removed before the arm will come out
Steve
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Post by urbantangleweed on Jun 8, 2023 7:38:55 GMT 1
Like Steve says above, the clutch pushrod prevents it coming out and this needs to be withdrawn a minimum of 10mm. Careful you don't lose the big ball bearing that's in front of it, they tend to have a habit of falling out and rolling into the darkest recess of the garage!
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 8, 2023 8:44:07 GMT 1
Shows how long it is since I did a Pv engine !! Norbo lists the actuator on his shop page. It would be worth changing the bearing at the same time. They can be a pig to get out without a puller, but I've used a rawl bolt - tightened up and expanded to grip the inner part of the bearing - to remove them before, although the cases were apart at the time. Dusty
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Post by muttsnuts on Jun 8, 2023 20:30:53 GMT 1
only comes out if you remove clutch pressure plate and pull the clutch pushrod out at least 10mm
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Post by JonW on Jun 9, 2023 2:30:39 GMT 1
Im late to the party on this, but yes its trapped by the pushrod. You cant pull it out without that removed.
Defo do the bearing, ebay has cheap bearing puller sets that make short work of this, takes 2min with the right tool or a lot of swearing if you fight it out... ask how i know?! lol
While in there renew the ball as well... but it does bet the question, how on earth did someone bend this arm? In any kind of normal use it cant be bent... hmm... anyway...
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G
Weekend rider
Posts: 78
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Post by G on Jun 9, 2023 20:10:17 GMT 1
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G
Weekend rider
Posts: 78
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Post by G on Jun 9, 2023 20:14:39 GMT 1
If the side casing is off, you could remove the pressure plate and withdraw the clutch push rod and see if that helps. There is a bearing in the top casing, below the spring. I wonder if that is causing a problem ? That actuator does look pretty bent. What's the story with that ? Ok I think I might do that as I don’t want to force it. I have no idea why it’s bent like that but the clutch needs attention anyway so worth digging deeper. Thanks for the responses Actuator is now out. When you say bearing is that in the casing where the actuator slides into below that retaining spring? Engine is still in the bike so don’t have a lot of room to get at it. Any thoughts welcome 🙏
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Post by stusco on Jun 9, 2023 21:20:43 GMT 1
Its a needle bearing and its very difficult to get out , no chance still in the bike it doesn’t do much work so might be ok Your actuator looks like its been welded or soldered
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 9, 2023 21:35:37 GMT 1
Yep, cylindrical needle bearing below the seal. Excuse the crappy pic !! t by dusty miller, on Flickr I've only ever removed them with the casings apart - never tried it with engine in the frame. I just wonder if the bent arm has put more load or possible damage into the needle rollers ? Might be they are fine of course, and fitting the new actuator will help you determine any roughness/notchy feel in the bearing Dusty
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G
Weekend rider
Posts: 78
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Post by G on Jun 9, 2023 21:46:31 GMT 1
Yep, cylindrical needle bearing below the seal. Excuse the crappy pic !! t by dusty miller, on Flickr I've only ever removed them with the casings apart - never tried it with engine in the frame. I just wonder if the bent arm has put more load or possible damage into the needle rollers ? Might be they are fine of course, and fitting the new actuator will help you determine any roughness/notchy feel in the bearing Dusty Thanks again Dusty. Any idea what puller I’d need to get that bearing out?
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Post by stusco on Jun 10, 2023 7:24:51 GMT 1
Dremmel
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Post by JonW on Jun 10, 2023 8:49:14 GMT 1
The pullers i use would need taller access from above than you'd get with the engine in the frame and other parts fitted.
You could try the rawl bolt method I guess? Those are not very long, be careful when levering it up. Wood blocks to spread the load etc.
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 10, 2023 8:49:34 GMT 1
I've not got a bearing puller so cant comment. Others here may have used one and can guide you on what you need. The problem is it's a tight space for trying anything else, plus the cage the rollers are housed in is super hard. Plus you have the possibility of swarf or debris dropping down into the engine if you do try to cut it or deform it in any way. I would research bearing pullers - loads on ebay. Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 10, 2023 8:54:34 GMT 1
I've used a rawl bolt - acts like a puller as you tighten the bolt and it expands into the bearing. My cases were apart though, and I drifted the bearing out from below by hitting the bolt part of the rawl bolt so didn't touch the cases at all. I had tried deforming the bearing cage prior to the rawl bolt method, and it wasn't having any of it - it's a tough bearing
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Post by stusco on Jun 10, 2023 17:11:07 GMT 1
I tried the expanding bearing puller it just dislodges the needles which could fall into the engine,I would leave it unless splitting the engine
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Post by jon on Jun 10, 2023 18:41:23 GMT 1
I did this today on a bare set of cases. I just weld a 17mm slug into the bearing and drift if out from below. 2 minutes work. Different for a complete engine in the frame of course.
I also would leave alone if wanting to keep the engine together.
Jon
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G
Weekend rider
Posts: 78
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Post by G on Jun 10, 2023 19:24:32 GMT 1
I did this today on a bare set of cases. I just weld a 17mm slug into the bearing and drift if out from below. 2 minutes work. Different for a complete engine in the frame of course. I also would leave alone if wanting to keep the engine together. Jon You lost me at weld 😂
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Post by jon on Jun 11, 2023 10:19:01 GMT 1
If the side casing is off, you could remove the pressure plate and withdraw the clutch push rod and see if that helps. There is a bearing in the top casing, below the spring. I wonder if that is causing a problem ? That actuator does look pretty bent. What's the story with that ? Ok I think I might do that as I don’t want to force it. I have no idea why it’s bent like that but the clutch needs attention anyway so worth digging deeper. Thanks for the responses If I had to guess I’d say someone has deliberately bent that to alter the clutch throw. A shorter leverage would mean a stiffer clutch but fully actuate with less lever travel. I did the opposite on a Lambretta once. I extended the clutch arm to make the 6 plate (4 as standard) clutch conversion feel lighter. Jon
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G
Weekend rider
Posts: 78
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Post by G on Jun 12, 2023 19:46:30 GMT 1
Before and after. flic.kr/p/2oGGP58 Movement feels smooth as silk now. Thanks for guidance all !
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Post by jon on Jun 13, 2023 19:21:02 GMT 1
Interesting engine number. No * either end. Jonw says their Australian cases are like that.
Jon
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 13, 2023 19:23:43 GMT 1
Interesting engine number. No * either end. Jonw says their Australian cases are like that. Jon Canadian, South American and Brazilian cases don't have them either which is strange Steve
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