Clutch Activator

[G]

I’ve got a badly bent clutch activator arm/cam which I’m trying to remove on my 31k.

I’ve removed the arm that holds it in place and taken the cable out of it however it won’t lift out (will move out a couple of inches only)

Is it held in place internally by something?

Any help gratefully received

flic.kr/p/2oFKj6V

[dusty350]

Hi
Should pull straight up and out. Nothing holds it internally.

[G]

Jun 7, 2023 20:53:53 GMT 1 dusty350 said:

Hi
Should pull straight up and out. Nothing holds it internally.

Thanks Dusty I definitely can’t remove it, any thoughts on what could be stopping it sliding out?

[dusty350]

You say it's bent ? The shaft that goes into the casing ?
Have you tried rotating it and pulling upwards at the same time ?

[G]

Jun 7, 2023 21:22:25 GMT 1 dusty350 said:

You say it's bent ? The shaft that goes into the casing ?
Have you tried rotating it and pulling upwards at the same time ?

You can see how it’s bent in this picture flic.kr/p/2oFKj6V

I’ll give it another go tomorrow but it feels and though it’s catching on something when I try and lift it out. Anything clutch I can remove to make it easier for it slide out?

[dusty350]

If the side casing is off, you could remove the pressure plate and withdraw the clutch push rod and see if that helps. There is a bearing in the top casing, below the spring. I wonder if that is causing a problem ?
That actuator does look pretty bent. What's the story with that ?

[G]

Jun 7, 2023 21:43:10 GMT 1 dusty350 said:

If the side casing is off, you could remove the pressure plate and withdraw the clutch push rod and see if that helps. There is a bearing in the top casing, below the spring. I wonder if that is causing a problem ?
That actuator does look pretty bent. What's the story with that ?

Ok I think I might do that as I don’t want to force it. I have no idea why it’s bent like that but the clutch needs attention anyway so worth digging deeper.

Thanks for the responses

[dusty350]

No problem. The fact it's bent may be enough on it's own to stop it pulling out as it should. It's a fairly snug fit in the bearing (obviously) so it could just be binding. Removing the pushrod and pressure plate will allow more wriggle room for sure
Good luck

[G]

Jun 7, 2023 22:01:33 GMT 1 dusty350 said:

No problem. The fact it's bent may be enough on it's own to stop it pulling out as it should. It's a fairly snug fit in the bearing (obviously) so it could just be binding. Removing the pushrod and pressure plate will allow more wriggle room for sure
Good luck

Thanks Dusty

[midlifecrisisrd]

You need to have the clutch pressure plate off and the pushrod removed before the arm will come out

Steve

[urbantangleweed]

Like Steve says above, the clutch pushrod prevents it coming out and this needs to be withdrawn a minimum of 10mm. Careful you don't lose the big ball bearing that's in front of it, they tend to have a habit of falling out and rolling into the darkest recess of the garage!

[dusty350]

Shows how long it is since I did a Pv engine !!
Norbo lists the actuator on his shop page. It would be worth changing the bearing at the same time. They can be a pig to get out without a puller, but I've used a rawl bolt - tightened up and expanded to grip the inner part of the bearing - to remove them before, although the cases were apart at the time.

Dusty

[muttsnuts]

only comes out if you remove clutch pressure plate and pull the clutch pushrod out at least 10mm

[JonW]

Im late to the party on this, but yes its trapped by the pushrod. You cant pull it out without that removed.

Defo do the bearing, ebay has cheap bearing puller sets that make short work of this, takes 2min with the right tool or a lot of swearing if you fight it out... ask how i know?! lol

While in there renew the ball as well... but it does bet the question, how on earth did someone bend this arm? In any kind of normal use it cant be bent... hmm... anyway...

[G]

Well it’s out.

flic.kr/p/2oGai1P

Thanks for the guidance fellas!

[G]

Jun 7, 2023 21:55:35 GMT 1 G said:

Jun 7, 2023 21:43:10 GMT 1 dusty350 said:

If the side casing is off, you could remove the pressure plate and withdraw the clutch push rod and see if that helps. There is a bearing in the top casing, below the spring. I wonder if that is causing a problem ?
That actuator does look pretty bent. What's the story with that ?

Ok I think I might do that as I don’t want to force it. I have no idea why it’s bent like that but the clutch needs attention anyway so worth digging deeper.

Thanks for the responses

Actuator is now out. When you say bearing is that in the casing where the actuator slides into below that retaining spring?

Engine is still in the bike so don’t have a lot of room to get at it.

Any thoughts welcome 🙏

[stusco]

Its a needle bearing and its very difficult to get out , no chance still in the bike it doesn’t do much work so might be ok
Your actuator looks like its been welded or soldered

[dusty350]

Yep, cylindrical needle bearing below the seal. Excuse the crappy pic !!

t by dusty miller, on Flickr

I've only ever removed them with the casings apart - never tried it with engine in the frame. I just wonder if the bent arm has put more load or possible damage into the needle rollers ? Might be they are fine of course, and fitting the new actuator will help you determine any roughness/notchy feel in the bearing

Dusty

[G]

Jun 9, 2023 21:35:37 GMT 1 dusty350 said:

Yep, cylindrical needle bearing below the seal. Excuse the crappy pic !!

t by dusty miller, on Flickr

I've only ever removed them with the casings apart - never tried it with engine in the frame. I just wonder if the bent arm has put more load or possible damage into the needle rollers ? Might be they are fine of course, and fitting the new actuator will help you determine any roughness/notchy feel in the bearing

Dusty

Thanks again Dusty. Any idea what puller I’d need to get that bearing out?

[stusco]

Dremmel

[JonW]

The pullers i use would need taller access from above than you'd get with the engine in the frame and other parts fitted.

You could try the rawl bolt method I guess? Those are not very long, be careful when levering it up. Wood blocks to spread the load etc.

[dusty350]

I've not got a bearing puller so cant comment. Others here may have used one and can guide you on what you need.
The problem is it's a tight space for trying anything else, plus the cage the rollers are housed in is super hard. Plus you have the possibility of swarf or debris dropping down into the engine if you do try to cut it or deform it in any way. I would research bearing pullers - loads on ebay.

Dusty

[dusty350]

I've used a rawl bolt - acts like a puller as you tighten the bolt and it expands into the bearing. My cases were apart though, and I drifted the bearing out from below by hitting the bolt part of the rawl bolt so didn't touch the cases at all. I had tried deforming the bearing cage prior to the rawl bolt method, and it wasn't having any of it - it's a tough bearing

[stusco]

I tried the expanding bearing puller it just dislodges the needles which could fall into the engine,I would leave it unless splitting the engine

[jon]

I did this today on a bare set of cases. I just weld a 17mm slug into the bearing and drift if out from below. 2 minutes work. Different for a complete engine in the frame of course.

I also would leave alone if wanting to keep the engine together.

Jon

[G]

Jun 10, 2023 18:41:23 GMT 1 jon said:

I did this today on a bare set of cases. I just weld a 17mm slug into the bearing and drift if out from below. 2 minutes work. Different for a complete engine in the frame of course.

I also would leave alone if wanting to keep the engine together.

Jon

You lost me at weld 😂

[jon]

Jun 7, 2023 21:55:35 GMT 1 G said:

Jun 7, 2023 21:43:10 GMT 1 dusty350 said:

If the side casing is off, you could remove the pressure plate and withdraw the clutch push rod and see if that helps. There is a bearing in the top casing, below the spring. I wonder if that is causing a problem ?
That actuator does look pretty bent. What's the story with that ?

Ok I think I might do that as I don’t want to force it. I have no idea why it’s bent like that but the clutch needs attention anyway so worth digging deeper.

Thanks for the responses

If I had to guess I’d say someone has deliberately bent that to alter the clutch throw. A shorter leverage would mean a stiffer clutch but fully actuate with less lever travel.

I did the opposite on a Lambretta once. I extended the clutch arm to make the 6 plate (4 as standard) clutch conversion feel lighter.

Jon

[G]

Before and after.

flic.kr/p/2oGGP58

Movement feels smooth as silk now.

Thanks for guidance all !

[jon]

Interesting engine number. No * either end. Jonw says their Australian cases are like that.

Jon

[midlifecrisisrd]

Jun 13, 2023 19:21:02 GMT 1 jon said:

Interesting engine number. No * either end. Jonw says their Australian cases are like that.

Jon

Canadian, South American and Brazilian cases don't have them either which is strange

Steve