4L0 Instrument cable routing - Sorted, thanks

[elsiefan]

Evening all.
I took loads of pics of cable routing when dismantling the bike to aid my rebuild (though I know some cables were incorrectly routed when I got it), but because I took the instruments off in one go and dismantled them on the bench I forgot to take a picture of where the three cables come out of the bottom of the cluster. I did look on Xavier's site and it's not 100% clear from the diagram in the supplemental manual which way they go.

Not sure if it is (1) over the metal bracket, like this

IMG20230404185857 

Or (2) under the bracket, like this

IMG20230404185656 

[shaunthe2nd]

Under. That's why there are channels in the lower clock cover.

[elsiefan]

Thanks Shaun 👍
That was my first thought as well. I couldn't remember seeing the cables coming out below the ignition switch before, but I wasn't going to trust my memory on this one 👴

[elsiefan]

Ok, I've spent the last hour trying to position the the cables out of the back of the cluster so that I can bolt it down.
I'm obviously doing something wrong, but no matter which way I route the cables they force the back of the cover up and make it impossible to bolt it down.

I've tried to position them between the clocks, or over the backs of the clocks, or a mixture of the two, but each way the cables force the cover up and I can't bolt it down.

What am I doing wrong?

IMG20230404185656

IMG20230405135324

IMG20230405135516

[shaunthe2nd]

2 small to right 1 big to left. Route between clock cable entry and the inner threaded stud. Follow the channels in lower cover. Ensure lower cover sits inside the outer when fitted.

[oldelsieboy]

OEB

[elsiefan]

Cheers guys, I had tried it like that (and every other possible combination 😂) but couldn't get the back plate down far enough to fit the bolts in any layout. This bike is determined to fight me all the way!
I'll have another go with the layout you showed me after my mug of tea, I'm just concerned about cracking the back plate as it needs considerable force to press it even close to the bolt holes.

[elsiefan]

Apr 5, 2023 15:34:10 GMT 1 oldelsieboy said:

OEB

Thanks for the picture of your layout, so much easier to see it in situ.
One thing I did notice was the wires to my reed switch in the speedo were the other way around to the ones in your picture. Do you know if this will make any difference to the way it operates? 
When  I dismantled the cluster the black wire was hanging loose, so I soldered it back in place, but the white /green was fixed in place already. 

[midlifecrisisrd]

It's just a Reed switch

Orientation won't affect it

Steve

[elsiefan]

Cheers Steve

When it comes to electrics I always check and ask, as I know polarity can affect things.

[elsiefan]

I decided to remove the extra tape and bandages(?) around the top of the large cable to see if that helped fitting the back cover, and while jiggling the cables about to try and get them in place, my repair to the black reed switch wire called time and came apart.
I pulled the switch out of the speedo, to make it easier to repair, and saw this inside.

IMG20230405162704

IMG20230405162859

I have no idea if this is right or wrong, the two terminals are not joined up inside the switch and I don't know if they should be or not. Now it could be that the rotating speedo disk induces some kind of signal / current in the switch, which is how it works. But I am not a subject matter expert on this.
So before I solder the wire again and have a go at fitting the back cover, can anyone clarify if this is correct for me, please?

[midlifecrisisrd]

That's fecked, it should be in a glass tube

The rotating magnetic speedo head causes the Reed switch to open and close as the magnetic field changes

You will need another one to solder in

Steve

[elsiefan]

Cheers Steve

Always good to get a trained eye on these things 👍

Any ideas where to look for one? Other than here / eBay?
I can't find the switch in the official LC parts list? Only the harness it attaches to, which is NLA.

Graeme

[shaunthe2nd]

PM me your address and I will pop you a reed switch in the post.

For what its worth, its not very often you get the indicator self cancel to work anyway.

Cheers,
Shaun

[elsiefan]

Cheers Shaun, you're a ⭐

I know the self cancel system can be a bit flaky, though my past experiences with them have been quite positive, but if it's fitted I want to give it a try and see if I can get it working. I do have the 'block thingy' on the frame under the coils, which I hear can also be hard to find.

Graeme

[4l04ever]

The connector next to the tacho can usually be wedged down the side of the tacho to make more rooms for the wires.

[elsiefan]

Cheers Rob

I'll give it a twirl

[beardy]

Interesting. I was going to ask what is this “Reed switch”?
But now I know it’s to do with the self cancelling indicators 👍🏻

[elsiefan]

Apr 6, 2023 7:46:32 GMT 1 beardy said:

Interesting. I was going to ask what is this “Reed switch”?
But now I know it’s to do with the self cancelling indicators 👍🏻

Yesterday I had no idea what one was either, but after some help from folks on here and my own research, I discovered that it is a switch that is activated by the presence of a magnet. Apparently they were used a lot in analogue telephone exchanges, amongst many other uses. 
This place is an education as well. 

[JonW]

yes, it counts rotations. In our set up it counts turns of the front wheel to work out a set distance and then the indicator is switched off.

Similar setup used in modern speedo pickups and even the cheapo cycle computers.

[fabiostar]

Thank god im not the only one who wanted to ask what the reed switch is lol