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Post by geoffers997 on Feb 7, 2023 10:39:44 GMT 1
Hello Forum,
in a bid to keep us all warm by raising pulses etc:
I'm replacing my period correct Dunlop Arrowmax with some new rubber for the coming riding season.
I'll keep the Dunlop tyres in case anyone ever wants to return it to totally period correct but riding around on such ancient old rubber can't be a good idea
So; choices, choices, a search through the archives and I think I've decided:
Tyre Choice: Avon Roadrider MkII (over Bridgestone BT46) purely from an aesthetic point of view. I just think they look prettier.
Tyre Sizing: Based on consensus, I'm going to go for 100/90-18 front and 120/80-18 rear as the bike feels skittish on whitelines and wrinkles in the road on the current skinny standard tyres
Opinions and experiences welcomed with thanks.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 7, 2023 11:42:25 GMT 1
To be honest you could probably remove the tyres and glue on a couple of swimming noodles and it would feel better than Arromax's
Choice - perfect
Sizes - that's what I would do. XJ's ran those sizes on the same size rims
Steve
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Post by Chewie01 on Feb 7, 2023 12:10:43 GMT 1
I put a set of BT46's in those sizes on my F2 last year, because that's what Bridgestone recommend on there web site.
In comparison to the standard size BT45's I had before they are more stable, but the compromise for the stability is the bike does not want to lean over so easily and I found myself running wide on corners.
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Post by Robbieben on Feb 7, 2023 12:27:22 GMT 1
I have Avon Roadrider II's on my GT750 and they are a very good tyre, can't fault them at all, plenty of grip in corners, nice predictive handling.
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Post by mouse on Feb 7, 2023 19:43:46 GMT 1
Personally, standard 4LO, standard width tyre, i've tried BT45's and am now using Roadrider II's. The RR's are way better, cannot fault them.
Just my opinion
Mouse
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Post by sp885 on Feb 11, 2023 1:30:43 GMT 1
I've had 2 sets of BT45's on my 350, this time around I've put Roadrider MK2's on, I like them
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Post by bare on Feb 11, 2023 21:40:00 GMT 1
Stock sizes are Fine (arguably best size for handling )Geriatric Age hardened Tires are the reason for sketchy control.. Not tire size.
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Post by geoffers997 on Feb 12, 2023 21:39:11 GMT 1
Thanks for the advice everyone.
Avons it is.
I’ll get a set fitted when I’m back from my next trip.
Loads of bikes out today while I was out on my treader (bicycle) so it’s getting close to riding season.
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Post by freddie19 on Feb 13, 2023 1:12:41 GMT 1
Always ran Bridgestones on my Powervalves, BT45's and now BT46....love em!!!
100/90H18 and 120/80H18..... perfect!!!
Only time I've ever tried Avons was years ago and I hated them, wore square in no time!
Obviously they will have improved since then!🤞
Problem I see with these Roadriders is they don't do a rear 120/80 tyre in a H rating only V.🤔
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Post by steve63 on Feb 20, 2023 14:03:07 GMT 1
I put a set of BT46's in those sizes on my F2 last year, because that's what Bridgestone recommend on there web site. In comparison to the standard size BT45's I had before they are more stable, but the compromise for the stability is the bike does not want to lean over so easily and I found myself running wide on corners. A reluctance to turn can generally be countered by lifting the back of the bike or lowering the front. In the case of my R1, both. If you have ride height adjustment on the rear then use that, if not, a bit more pre-load. Increasing pre-load by 2 or 3 notches transformed my VFR. I did the R1 and nearly clipped the kerb on the inside at the first corner I came to down our street, the change was so drastic. Both bikes are much nicer to ride. Neither are any less stable (that I noticed). There are obviously limits  You don't want to turn it into a shopping trolley. |
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Post by Chewie01 on Feb 20, 2023 14:20:12 GMT 1
I put a set of BT46's in those sizes on my F2 last year, because that's what Bridgestone recommend on there web site. In comparison to the standard size BT45's I had before they are more stable, but the compromise for the stability is the bike does not want to lean over so easily and I found myself running wide on corners. A reluctance to turn can generally be countered by lifting the back of the bike or lowering the front. In the case of my R1, both. If you have ride height adjustment on the rear then use that, if not, a bit more pre-load. Increasing pre-load by 2 or 3 notches transformed my VFR. I did the R1 and nearly clipped the kerb on the inside at the first corner I came to down our street, the change was so drastic. Both bikes are much nicer to ride. Neither are any less stable (that I noticed). There are obviously limits You don't want to turn it into a shopping trolley. Thanks for the useful information. I wish you had posted it a couple of days ago, before I installed my new YSS shock, DOH! Looks like I will be removing it again and increasing the ride height. |
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Post by steve63 on Feb 21, 2023 13:59:58 GMT 1
A reluctance to turn can generally be countered by lifting the back of the bike or lowering the front. In the case of my R1, both. If you have ride height adjustment on the rear then use that, if not, a bit more pre-load. Increasing pre-load by 2 or 3 notches transformed my VFR. I did the R1 and nearly clipped the kerb on the inside at the first corner I came to down our street, the change was so drastic. Both bikes are much nicer to ride. Neither are any less stable (that I noticed). There are obviously limits You don't want to turn it into a shopping trolley. Thanks for the useful information. I wish you had posted it a couple of days ago, before I installed my new YSS shock, DOH! Looks like I will be removing it again and increasing the ride height. It's just what I have observed over the years that I am happier on a bike when the steering is sharper. The VFR went from being kind of OK on A roads to being something I love to ride even on the tight twisty stuff. I have a YSS for the LC but nothing to attach it to at the moment. I was thinking just recently about how to set it up when I eventually finish the bike. I suppose I could put the standard on, take some measurements then swap shocks and set it to those dimensions as a start point. To be honest I'll just be overwhelmingly happy when I get to the stage of fitting a shock Can't the YSS be adjusted on the bike? It uses a 6mm pin into a hole to adjust the ride height if I remember right? Or is it just too awkward to do in place? You can work out what change a tyre might do to the bike by working out the height of the tyre. 120/80 18 will be 120 wide with a height of 80% of the 120 so 96mm high. A 110/90/18 would be 90% of 110 - 99mm. The bike would be 3mm lower at the back with a 120/80 than a 110/90. In theory the steering will be slower with the 120 because the back end is down a bit but it depends on wheel profiles so it's not quite straight forward. |
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Post by Chewie01 on Feb 21, 2023 18:02:00 GMT 1
Thanks for the useful information. I wish you had posted it a couple of days ago, before I installed my new YSS shock, DOH! Looks like I will be removing it again and increasing the ride height. It's just what I have observed over the years that I am happier on a bike when the steering is sharper. The VFR went from being kind of OK on A roads to being something I love to ride even on the tight twisty stuff. I have a YSS for the LC but nothing to attach it to at the moment. I was thinking just recently about how to set it up when I eventually finish the bike. I suppose I could put the standard on, take some measurements then swap shocks and set it to those dimensions as a start point. To be honest I'll just be overwhelmingly happy when I get to the stage of fitting a shock Can't the YSS be adjusted on the bike? It uses a 6mm pin into a hole to adjust the ride height if I remember right? Or is it just too awkward to do in place? You can work out what change a tyre might do to the bike by working out the height of the tyre. 120/80 18 will be 120 wide with a height of 80% of the 120 so 96mm high. A 110/90/18 would be 90% of 110 - 99mm. The bike would be 3mm lower at the back with a 120/80 than a 110/90. In theory the steering will be slower with the 120 because the back end is down a bit but it depends on wheel profiles so it's not quite straight forward. From my limited understanding of suspension the preload should be set to adjust the sag from fully extended to sitting my large arse on it and therefore it should be set at the correct setting to allow full movement of the shock. However the YSS also has an adjustment at the bottom to extend the length of the shock, which in my mind is the way to go to compensate for the 3mm reduction in ride height because of the tyre height difference. The process to extend the length of the shock is to undo the lock nut and wind out the bottom fixing by up to 10mm and then tighten the lock nut again. This of course means I'm going to have to remove the bottom fixing to allow the end to be turned. This isn't the end of the world as everything is well greased and easy to get out. It's just a pain to do it a few days after fitting it. |
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Post by steve63 on Feb 21, 2023 18:24:42 GMT 1
It's just what I have observed over the years that I am happier on a bike when the steering is sharper. The VFR went from being kind of OK on A roads to being something I love to ride even on the tight twisty stuff. I have a YSS for the LC but nothing to attach it to at the moment. I was thinking just recently about how to set it up when I eventually finish the bike. I suppose I could put the standard on, take some measurements then swap shocks and set it to those dimensions as a start point. To be honest I'll just be overwhelmingly happy when I get to the stage of fitting a shock Can't the YSS be adjusted on the bike? It uses a 6mm pin into a hole to adjust the ride height if I remember right? Or is it just too awkward to do in place? You can work out what change a tyre might do to the bike by working out the height of the tyre. 120/80 18 will be 120 wide with a height of 80% of the 120 so 96mm high. A 110/90/18 would be 90% of 110 - 99mm. The bike would be 3mm lower at the back with a 120/80 than a 110/90. In theory the steering will be slower with the 120 because the back end is down a bit but it depends on wheel profiles so it's not quite straight forward. From my limited understanding of suspension the preload should be set to adjust the sag from fully extended to sitting my large arse on it and therefore it should be set at the correct setting to allow full movement of the shock. However the YSS also has an adjustment at the bottom to extend the length of the shock, which in my mind is the way to go to compensate for the 3mm reduction in ride height because of the tyre height difference. The process to extend the length of the shock is to undo the lock nut and wind out the bottom fixing by up to 10mm and then tighten the lock nut again. This of course means I'm going to have to remove the bottom fixing to allow the end to be turned. This isn't the end of the world as everything is well greased and easy to get out. It's just a pain to do it a few days after fitting it. Yes, I think you are right. My excuse is that I was thinking purely about pre-load being the only way to adjust ride height (as all of my bikes are) whilst forgetting the YSS, which is only in the next room but I'm too lazy to go look at, actually has proper ride-height adjustment  Now going off at a tangent the ZXR400 I think has a bracket on the frame where the shock fixes to to adjust ride height. |
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 21, 2023 18:25:01 GMT 1
It's +/- 5mm on the Yss shock length adjustment. There is a drilled hole that shows the limit on the adjustable eye threaded part, if that makes sense🙂
Dusty🙂
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Post by Chewie01 on Feb 21, 2023 18:41:03 GMT 1
It's +/- 5mm on the Yss shock length adjustment. There is a drilled hole that shows the limit on the adjustable eye threaded part, if that makes sense🙂 Dusty🙂 I read the manual to get the 10mm value, although I did read it after I installed it, lol. I assume that would be the full adjustment length and it's factory setting is in the middle of the total adjustment. The manual also has a good image of the hole, so it makes sense to me. |
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 21, 2023 20:18:15 GMT 1
It's 5m either way from standard length, so for an Lc the max will be 320mm long, not 325mm. The other thing to remember is, if you jack the back end up too much the chain can contact the top of the swingarm more, plus may come into contact with the exhaust pipe on that side  Dusty  |
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Post by geoffers997 on Mar 28, 2023 19:44:30 GMT 1
Update to close this one off:
Got a pair of Avons fitted this morning.
In the end I went for standard sizes
I kept the original Dunlop’s, wrapped them up and stuck them in the loft in case anyone ever wants to be 100% period correct.
I’ve not fitted the wheels back onto the bike as yet but jeez they feel sticky compared to the old hoops
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You don't want to turn it into a shopping trolley.
