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Post by JonW on Jan 11, 2023 13:50:44 GMT 1
I assume this part grips the key and holds it in place. These seem to mostly be dust nowadays and Ive never seen a replacement. Has anyone a line on some of these? ...the one in the pic was just dust and chunks 2 secs later, you can never remove these now
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Post by reedpete on Jan 11, 2023 13:57:41 GMT 1
Maybe something for Al to print ! JonW ,funny you should be looking at a lock… was it something I said 😂😂😂, anyway… had a related question for you about the barrel wafers… how many different sizes are there? When I finally sit down to have a go, I’m thinking to disassemble ‘a few’ … sort the wafers into there sizes and then select to suit as you and others recommend… What could possibly go wrong !
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 11, 2023 17:03:19 GMT 1
I've never noticed that bit Jon
What lock is it?
Suppose it's cause I don't usually take the lock cover off
As for "wafers" I've never heard them called that but then I don't know what the correct name is lol
I'd say 9 since they must refer to the numbers on the key
Steve
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Post by reedpete on Jan 11, 2023 17:20:42 GMT 1
I'd say 9 since they must refer to the numbers on the key Steve That is so logical and simple that I’d going to make a cone shaped hat with a D on and stand myself in the corner wearing it !
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 11, 2023 17:23:34 GMT 1
I'd say 9 since they must refer to the numbers on the key Steve That is so logical and simple that I’d going to make a cone shaped hat with a D on and stand myself in the corner wearing it ! 😂😂😂😂 I'll probably be wrong 🤡 Surely it's how they cut a key from the code 🤔 Steve
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Post by reedpete on Jan 11, 2023 17:46:25 GMT 1
Yes, key code , style letter plus six numbers for six ‘wafers’… each number with option 0-9… We still might be surprised, but it’s ‘so obvious’ … more of that ‘uncommon’ sense..
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Post by bare on Jan 11, 2023 18:45:35 GMT 1
possible to remove it? and Scan the thing, then have it 3d printed. Looks to be a half hour .. at most, print job. Definitely not going to be as durable as the original (3d prints are never overly durable) but for the 1$ costs... make multiple copies as insurance.
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ajh
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 415
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Post by ajh on Jan 11, 2023 19:54:54 GMT 1
if by wafers you mean the metal things that the key pushes out, I think theyre called 'wards'. Having rejigged a few locks, Ive only come across 2 possibly 3 different sizes
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Post by JonW on Jan 12, 2023 0:29:55 GMT 1
Maybe something for Al to print ! JonW ,funny you should be looking at a lock… was it something I said 😂😂😂, anyway… had a related question for you about the barrel wafers… how many different sizes are there? When I finally sit down to have a go, I’m thinking to disassemble ‘a few’ … sort the wafers into there sizes and then select to suit as you and others recommend… What could possibly go wrong ! I did wonder if Al might be the guy to contact, the thing is I have never managed to get one out intact. It would need someone with a new/newish one that was willing to take it apart i guess... plus i do worry that there are more than one shape for these. hmm... Wafers... tumblers... leaves... Ive heard a lot of names for these. But, you all made me look this up and {drumroll} its WAFERS! Check out this info: locklab.com/types-of-locks-bosnianbills-locklab/As for how many, Im with ajh, I reckon for most Yam keys its generally 3 but in reality its more and could be 10 (ie 0-9). If you imagine the external shape remains the same and the rectangular hole in the center can either move up or down, giving you more up top and less at the bottom or vice versa. Most keys seem to want either one of these basic shapes: 'more at the top', 'more at the bottom' or 'in the middle'. However, there is some merit in the numbers being the sizes and there being more than 3 in real life as not all keys seem to work exactly with the 3 basic waferss and some will want a little more here n there. After a good clean to remove any old grease and dirt and dust. US cleaning and some wax grease remover etc. Then I tend to put all the springs back in and start the far end and put in any wafer, then put the key in. Its fiddly to get the wafer down and the key in, this gets harder with more wafers fitted as well, but when the key is in you can see if it stick out top n bottom... when you invert the lock, dont let the other springs fall out lol. The remove the key and the wafer and fit one with more or less top/bottom from your stash of cleaned up wafers. Build up as you go. File any that stick out if you have to, ie the ones you couldnt exactly match. You can also leave a single wafer out if you really dont have one to fit of course. Be aware that not all ignitions are made by the same people, so aftermarket wafers may not fit OEM locks. some are thicker or the hole in the middle is for a less tall key - you'll find the key wont go all the way in etc.
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Post by JonW on Jan 12, 2023 0:31:06 GMT 1
possible to remove it? and Scan the thing, then have it 3d printed. Looks to be a half hour .. at most, print job. Definitely not going to be as durable as the original (3d prints are never overly durable) but for the 1$ costs... make multiple copies as insurance. Agreed, but as mentioned these fall apart as soon as you look at them. I was amazed to find one this intact, usually they have already disintegrated and gummed up the lock mech with dust and chunks.
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Post by JonW on Jan 12, 2023 0:37:52 GMT 1
I've never noticed that bit Jon What lock is it? Suppose it's cause I don't usually take the lock cover off As for "wafers" I've never heard them called that but then I don't know what the correct name is lol I'd say 9 since they must refer to the numbers on the key Steve You wont see them very often, they are usually destroyed sadly. Haha, you defo only see these with the cover off... most of the covers I have here have had a screwdriver in them sadly*. I believe its function is to help hold the key in the lock when riding along - only ignition switches seem to have these, otherwise its not very useful really... hmm... I have seen older locks where this area is all cast, so maybe its just to get a nice lead in? I wish i knew... * - People would be amazed at the damage Ive seen as I tend to enjoy fixing old bike locks/ignitions and am often amazed at what people can do to these things forcing them. Not just the lock itself either. Ive found not only cut off helmet lock bars, but even parts (as a lot are cheap cast material) like the seat/helmet lock rotating plate with the square part broken off though being forced. All old parts tell a story of course... These are not high security parts and easily forced of course, thats why we got immobilisers later etc.
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Post by JonW on Jan 12, 2023 0:39:31 GMT 1
Ignition barrel. OEM Yam for our bikes. This was an F key and probably off an LC or LC2 judging by the wiring.
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Post by JonW on Apr 13, 2024 1:36:46 GMT 1
I'll bump this as Id still love to find some of these plastic parts if anyone has one intact? I will try and get some made, but need an intact original.
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Post by bezzer on Apr 13, 2024 13:49:01 GMT 1
Be great if someone could replicate them Jon. Out of interest, did you ever source a replacement for the lock covers?, by that I mean the stainless disc with the key slot in?.
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Post by JonW on Apr 13, 2024 14:02:16 GMT 1
Be great if someone could replicate them Jon. Out of interest, did you ever source a replacement for the lock covers?, by that I mean the stainless disc with the key slot in?. I didnt, I guess they could be made, but you'd need to make dies. Wouldnt take much pressure on the thin stainless blanks which could be lasered, but hard without the dies
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