Post by tec14 on Apr 8, 2022 19:31:59 GMT 1
Lost a good if not my best friend and his bike was going to the scrap yard. Been on his case for years to get it running and he always said, No it's to far gone.
I looked at it for quite awhile before I tried starting it and I did get it started but man it was noisy but it ran, sort of. I think who ever sold it to him some 30
years ago had it as a parts bike. The carbs were so off I don't know how he rode it the one time he came for a ride with us. Know I know why he was so far behind
and never rode it again.
Float levels through the roof, must have held the carbs level instead of just touching the seat needle pin, somewhere around 60 degrees seemed right.
I found the choke plunger detent wrong and not alowing it to close. Installing a very thick copper washer allowed the spring to actually seat it now.
He was a good mechanic so these things puzzeled me but after removing the decomposing air filter and rebuilt the pet c**k she started. Sounded like
Bag of marbles and worst bearing noise you ever heard. Wholly crap he rode this.no wounder it got parked.
Well it only had 22000K so how bad could it be. Being a 4 stroke guy I thought could be interesting and what elese am I diong now anyway.
Head removed showed it had scatered once before on the left bank, choke being on all the time most likely and cracked pistions Yikes.
Crank rusty and left rod main close to .030" play. Can you say rice at a wedding.
Well trany full of water after start up since it was good at first check. But it cleaned up pretty good and he stored it right with clean coolant
tand had been oiled and carbs were dry. Never did a full tear down so here goes.
It took two years and a kick in the ass from a buddy to finally put the motor back togeather. I was kind of worried that somthing would go wrong.
Had to source parts from everywhere as they were only alowed in Canada for a few years so that made it even harder.
I did need some carb parts as it had two different return springs and the anodizing on the needles was worn away at the transision point. Thre were
a few other bits missing also but as luck or my friend watching over. My wife who likes looking through the craigslist free adds asks, hey do you want
a free motor cycle? Ah don't you think I have enough going on already. Well here's a pic of it yes or know. What the hell is that an RD 350. Hell ya
where is it. You got to be kidding, just a few minuets away.
It was outside under a old tired tarp and it's bones had been picked over but had the parts I needed and all the electronics so great find.
Note to self, when making a pressure tester only use champagne corks as the cork screw hole in wine corks cause leaks and once a spark plug
is used the crush washer will not seal properly.
Rock solid on the pressuer test
Made a great holder for my dial guage out of a hollowed out spark plug and set it to .079" since it would most likely sittle a bit after heat cycle retorque.
What a fun bike to ride and I can hardly wait for break in as it caught me off guard when I started to dial the carbs and it sprung to life at 5000, can you
say wheele.
All original, and I even made a pulse genreator to check the tack which was 700 high. You can adjust the clock spring tension if you open the can connect
a drill and use it as a referance. I should have taken pictures but this is how. Tape the bezzel grind a small plyer arced and cut a grouve at the tip with a cutoff wheel, kind of a can opener. There is a arm the spring is crimped to and a small bit of the spring pertrudes from it. Clip a mini needle nose vice grip
to the spring and use a small screw driver to pry between it and the arm. It will come and it took only adout 1.5 mm to get it in range. Now you can
clean the glass if you ever made the mistake of using a pressure washer especially on a hot bike. Not a well sealed system. Place it in a wood work vise
to gently push it back together and a smooth jaw plyer to crimp it back. Very easy and the bezzel is conceled on these anyway if you scratch it.
Runing 2nd over stock 220 main needle 3rd clip ft top and .25 pilot
The bike had no life off the line Big bog on the 2nd clip.
I think you should try this as I found it improved the midrange stumble ond over all smoothness 10 fold
If you look at the installed needle it rattles side to side and a little up and down. My thought was at the transion the needle is bouncing around in the
needle jet causing a inconsistant mix. The designe made it hard to fix but try this. I took an old 10 speed inner tube because it needs to be a thin tube
and with a hole punch make a small rubber washer. Place it under the needle clip on the slide side and screw down the retainer. The needle can still
float but try it and see if you get the incredable results I did. Very smooth and not just a little.
I have been happy with the results so I pulled it appart and made a proper Nitril rubber gasket for the needle as the inner tube rubber won't last long.
I used a heavy nitril glove for material and the thickness is good at .014" make sure to align the clip with the retainer so the pressure is even as the clip gap
should line up with the cable opening.
I covered the hole in the slide with the retainer this time as I can't seem to get any definitive answer as to open or closed. Most say it is open on there carbs
but I can only see this as creating unwanted turbulance so it was closed on this test. I feel the bike pulles much better now so closed it is. It is easy to try
and can be done in a few minute. Why would you want air fuel mix getting in there let alone air pulled in from the cable.
Got 300k on it now and took it to 8000 today, man does this bike pull. Still a bit of a burble at 3800 only of the line, may still be a little lean on the pilot
but the weather is still cold so waiting for summer to see. Not an easy task in Canada getting parts but ended up very worth it.
Thank you all for helping with your posts I couldn't have done it with out you.
This was for you my good friend Bruce
I told you we should fix it.
I looked at it for quite awhile before I tried starting it and I did get it started but man it was noisy but it ran, sort of. I think who ever sold it to him some 30
years ago had it as a parts bike. The carbs were so off I don't know how he rode it the one time he came for a ride with us. Know I know why he was so far behind
and never rode it again.
Float levels through the roof, must have held the carbs level instead of just touching the seat needle pin, somewhere around 60 degrees seemed right.
I found the choke plunger detent wrong and not alowing it to close. Installing a very thick copper washer allowed the spring to actually seat it now.
He was a good mechanic so these things puzzeled me but after removing the decomposing air filter and rebuilt the pet c**k she started. Sounded like
Bag of marbles and worst bearing noise you ever heard. Wholly crap he rode this.no wounder it got parked.
Well it only had 22000K so how bad could it be. Being a 4 stroke guy I thought could be interesting and what elese am I diong now anyway.
Head removed showed it had scatered once before on the left bank, choke being on all the time most likely and cracked pistions Yikes.
Crank rusty and left rod main close to .030" play. Can you say rice at a wedding.
Well trany full of water after start up since it was good at first check. But it cleaned up pretty good and he stored it right with clean coolant
tand had been oiled and carbs were dry. Never did a full tear down so here goes.
It took two years and a kick in the ass from a buddy to finally put the motor back togeather. I was kind of worried that somthing would go wrong.
Had to source parts from everywhere as they were only alowed in Canada for a few years so that made it even harder.
I did need some carb parts as it had two different return springs and the anodizing on the needles was worn away at the transision point. Thre were
a few other bits missing also but as luck or my friend watching over. My wife who likes looking through the craigslist free adds asks, hey do you want
a free motor cycle? Ah don't you think I have enough going on already. Well here's a pic of it yes or know. What the hell is that an RD 350. Hell ya
where is it. You got to be kidding, just a few minuets away.
It was outside under a old tired tarp and it's bones had been picked over but had the parts I needed and all the electronics so great find.
Note to self, when making a pressure tester only use champagne corks as the cork screw hole in wine corks cause leaks and once a spark plug
is used the crush washer will not seal properly.
Rock solid on the pressuer test
Made a great holder for my dial guage out of a hollowed out spark plug and set it to .079" since it would most likely sittle a bit after heat cycle retorque.
What a fun bike to ride and I can hardly wait for break in as it caught me off guard when I started to dial the carbs and it sprung to life at 5000, can you
say wheele.
All original, and I even made a pulse genreator to check the tack which was 700 high. You can adjust the clock spring tension if you open the can connect
a drill and use it as a referance. I should have taken pictures but this is how. Tape the bezzel grind a small plyer arced and cut a grouve at the tip with a cutoff wheel, kind of a can opener. There is a arm the spring is crimped to and a small bit of the spring pertrudes from it. Clip a mini needle nose vice grip
to the spring and use a small screw driver to pry between it and the arm. It will come and it took only adout 1.5 mm to get it in range. Now you can
clean the glass if you ever made the mistake of using a pressure washer especially on a hot bike. Not a well sealed system. Place it in a wood work vise
to gently push it back together and a smooth jaw plyer to crimp it back. Very easy and the bezzel is conceled on these anyway if you scratch it.
Runing 2nd over stock 220 main needle 3rd clip ft top and .25 pilot
The bike had no life off the line Big bog on the 2nd clip.
I think you should try this as I found it improved the midrange stumble ond over all smoothness 10 fold
If you look at the installed needle it rattles side to side and a little up and down. My thought was at the transion the needle is bouncing around in the
needle jet causing a inconsistant mix. The designe made it hard to fix but try this. I took an old 10 speed inner tube because it needs to be a thin tube
and with a hole punch make a small rubber washer. Place it under the needle clip on the slide side and screw down the retainer. The needle can still
float but try it and see if you get the incredable results I did. Very smooth and not just a little.
I have been happy with the results so I pulled it appart and made a proper Nitril rubber gasket for the needle as the inner tube rubber won't last long.
I used a heavy nitril glove for material and the thickness is good at .014" make sure to align the clip with the retainer so the pressure is even as the clip gap
should line up with the cable opening.
I covered the hole in the slide with the retainer this time as I can't seem to get any definitive answer as to open or closed. Most say it is open on there carbs
but I can only see this as creating unwanted turbulance so it was closed on this test. I feel the bike pulles much better now so closed it is. It is easy to try
and can be done in a few minute. Why would you want air fuel mix getting in there let alone air pulled in from the cable.
Got 300k on it now and took it to 8000 today, man does this bike pull. Still a bit of a burble at 3800 only of the line, may still be a little lean on the pilot
but the weather is still cold so waiting for summer to see. Not an easy task in Canada getting parts but ended up very worth it.
Thank you all for helping with your posts I couldn't have done it with out you.
This was for you my good friend Bruce
I told you we should fix it.