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Post by pigboy on Feb 24, 2021 14:02:35 GMT 1
Hi just rebuilding an RD500 I’ve removed all the cylinder heads and everything looks good , whilst it’s in this state I’m thinking i should replace the crankseal , it looks fairly easy do you need to remove the clutch or can it be split and then lift both the cranks out ? Many thanks Andy
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 24, 2021 14:19:45 GMT 1
If you have it partially in bits I'd be wanting to change the seals and get the cranks serviced
An RD500 engine build is a big job, do it once, do it right while you can still get parts
Steve
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Post by pigboy on Feb 24, 2021 14:27:26 GMT 1
Hi Steve thanks once again it looks like you could I’ve got the clutch cover off and all the cylinder heads off , it looks like removing the flywheel casing and oil pump you should be able to split the casings . What tool can you use to remove flywheel
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 24, 2021 14:43:22 GMT 1
Not any experience of the 500 but most likely a screw in puller on the centre and not a 3 leg job
Steve
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Post by tacky1 on Feb 24, 2021 15:00:55 GMT 1
You need a harmonic balancer puller, like this one yambits.co.uk/rd500-flywheel-puller-p-6247.htmlAlso, there is a bearing holder behind the clutch basket, so you should pull the clutch, and the 2 hidden allen bolts under the lower cylinders, they usually are a complete biatch to get out as they are usually corroded and the head rounds when trying to loosen!!
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Post by pigboy on Feb 24, 2021 16:00:16 GMT 1
Thanks do you need to take the clutch out ?
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Post by stusco on Feb 24, 2021 17:17:27 GMT 1
I wouldn’t think its a job you can do on the fly you would definitely need a manual,completely stripping and rebuilding with loads of photos is one thing doing it in situ is another (I don’t know if you can)
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Post by pigboy on Feb 24, 2021 17:43:31 GMT 1
I’ve got a manual but it’s not very clear will have a good read of it before I proceed
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Post by JonW on Feb 24, 2021 23:06:40 GMT 1
Its all as tacky said above. I read what he said and thought 'yep... yep... that's right' etc.
The yambits puller is perfect for the job and only costs a tenner.
Only fit OEM crank seals tho its said the end plate-style seals can be non oem. The seals are getting harder to find now.
Are you at the mileage where you should replace the bearings?
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Post by tacky1 on Feb 25, 2021 1:58:36 GMT 1
Thanks do you need to take the clutch out ? Yep, Clutch has to be removed to split the cases.
Also another thing, Be very careful when rebuilding the engine, Fitting the clutch case, there is a metal gear on the waterpump and if you force it it will break a tooth off, You must spin the engine with the flywheel when fitting the clutch cover, The gears are impossible to find, 3 engines I opened up had this problem, broken tooth on the gear...
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Post by tacky1 on Feb 25, 2021 2:05:28 GMT 1
Pics of said plate,,,,,
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Post by tacky1 on Feb 25, 2021 2:10:01 GMT 1
This is the location of the hidden allen bolts, they are usually buried onder years of crud....
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Post by pigboy on Feb 25, 2021 13:30:41 GMT 1
It looks like the plate is well below the crank case split line I’ve done it on my 350 before . I’m changing all the seal do the metal one need replacing too ? Where can they be purchased?
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rd84
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 276
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Post by rd84 on Feb 25, 2021 18:48:22 GMT 1
There is at least one RD500 rebuild video on Youtube - also find the video on crank timing - make a note of your crank positions before taking to bits.
Where possible use OEM seals, gaskets etc.
The manual combined with youtube videos and help from guys on this forum is sufficient if you take your time.
Good luck.
Cheers Paul
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Post by pigboy on Feb 25, 2021 18:55:44 GMT 1
Thanks Paul will hunt the video down , trying to work timing out with manual before dismantling
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