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Post by alankelly on Jan 5, 2021 22:58:30 GMT 1
Hi all
Quick question please somebody may be able to answer
Is it ok to use resistor plug caps with resistor type plugs or will it have a negative on the performance of an ignition system ie weaker spark due to a total higher resistance of the plug and cap combined?
Any advice welcome
Best wishes Al
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Post by headcoats on Jan 5, 2021 23:20:57 GMT 1
www.ngksparkplugs.co.za/products/ngk-resistor-caps/
QUOTE Combined usage of the resistor covers and resistor spark plugs is more efficient to suppress ignition noise from engines in motorcycles, snowmobiles, farm tractors and so on.
If I have read this right it says OK ?
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 5, 2021 23:27:22 GMT 1
I always understood you use one or the other, so non resistor plugs but resistor caps or vice versa. Can weaken the spark on an old system. Not sure if it affects the newer digital ignitions we can get nowadays ? Dusty
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Post by alankelly on Jan 5, 2021 23:35:23 GMT 1
Hi Dusty
Hope you are keeping well
That may explain why my old cb125td is a pig to start as the spark looks very weak and I think combined with an electric start, as the old starter seems to be also dragging down the overall voltage of the system the spark does look pathetic
Will try to swap the plugs for some non resistor type and see if that makes a difference
Stay safe and thanks again Al
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Post by JonW on Jan 6, 2021 5:40:56 GMT 1
As a rule we usually say you use one or the other. I sometimes use both if ive not noticed the cap is an R type as is often the case with old bikes that has been worked on.
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Post by marrcel on Jan 6, 2021 8:05:40 GMT 1
To take this discussion futher. Is the R better in the plug or the cap? I had some problems with R plugs. The connection thread came loose. I think a R in a plug needs some space and has to be heatresistant. I stick with R cap and non R plugs. 😉
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Post by stusco on Jan 6, 2021 8:28:37 GMT 1
I f##cked the zeel in my lc using non resistor plugs with resistor caps according to Borat (zeel)
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 6, 2021 9:02:34 GMT 1
I think Alan was referring to an old, original ignition system. I dont know how newer, higher spark systems work with/without resistor plugs/caps ? I built an Lc hybrid with a new Dyna coil, resistor plugs and caps and it was fine, but that coil was producing a much stronger spark than the old original. Dusty
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Post by pdxjim on Jan 6, 2021 17:12:27 GMT 1
I'm not sure if running R plugs and R caps was causing me grief or not with my bone standard 40 year old iggy? Certainly couldn't be helping tho. I've now a new Dynatek coil on order, and a new pair of non-R caps were only $10 shipped direct from NGK, so that should cross one more variable off the list. Worth mentioning B8ES plugs have been discontinued by NGK, so may as well be buying some non-R caps in anticipation of the non-R plug supply drying up. www.ngk.com/ngk-3683-b8es-nickel-spark-plug
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Post by alankelly on Jan 6, 2021 17:52:24 GMT 1
Hi all
Thanks for the advice
Just orders a couple on non resistor caps to see if that helps
Again many thanks
Best wishes Al
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Post by beardy on Jan 6, 2021 19:01:25 GMT 1
Also as your a mechanically minded person. On older Honda‘a you can often pull the starter motors apart and you’ll find them full of carbon dust around the brushes. Often used to clean them out on my old CX’s when they got sluggish.
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Post by alankelly on Jan 6, 2021 23:09:00 GMT 1
Also as your a mechanically minded person. On older Honda‘a you can often pull the starter motors apart and you’ll find them full of carbon dust around the brushes. Often used to clean them out on my old CX’s when they got sluggish. Hi Beardy Thanks for the tip As the 125 motor is sluggish to turn over tried the battery out of the CB400F tonight and even though it spins over the CB400F in line four easily it doesn’t even turn over the 125 twin with the plugs out😳 Also with the original battery back in even though it turns over with the plugs out it is still very sluggish and the voltage across the battery when cranking goes from 12v to about 7v so looks like the starter is really drawing too much out of the system,so could be the reason for the weak spark? Wish it still had a kicker like to 400F as it would then most likely fire up first kick So think it’s time to pull the starter and strip it down for a refurb to see if that helps Thanks again all for all the advise Best wishes a d stay safe Al
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Post by russie on Jan 7, 2021 20:59:08 GMT 1
Also as your a mechanically minded person. On older Honda‘a you can often pull the starter motors apart and you’ll find them full of carbon dust around the brushes. Often used to clean them out on my old CX’s when they got sluggish. Hi Beardy Thanks for the tip As the 125 motor is sluggish to turn over tried the battery out of the CB400F tonight and even though it spins over the CB400F in line four easily it doesn’t even turn over the 125 twin with the plugs out😳 Also with the original battery back in even though it turns over with the plugs out it is still very sluggish and the voltage across the battery when cranking goes from 12v to about 7v so looks like the starter is really drawing too much out of the system,so could be the reason for the weak spark? Wish it still had a kicker like to 400F as it would then most likely fire up first kick So think it’s time to pull the starter and strip it down for a refurb to see if that helps Thanks again all for all the advise Best wishes a d stay safe Al Ideally you need a current clamp around one of the main battery leads while you’re cranking or trying to crank it. If there’s mechanical resistance either in the starter motor or worse, the engine, then you’ll have abnormally high current flow. If there’s electrical resistance in a bad ground or weak battery lead then you’ll have abnormally low current flow. I’d estimate 60-100A is about right. Pretty sure your CB125TD has cdi ignition so not affected by battery voltage but it will be affected by abnormally low cranking rpm.
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Post by alankelly on Jan 7, 2021 22:56:28 GMT 1
Hi Beardy Thanks for the tip As the 125 motor is sluggish to turn over tried the battery out of the CB400F tonight and even though it spins over the CB400F in line four easily it doesn’t even turn over the 125 twin with the plugs out😳 Also with the original battery back in even though it turns over with the plugs out it is still very sluggish and the voltage across the battery when cranking goes from 12v to about 7v so looks like the starter is really drawing too much out of the system,so could be the reason for the weak spark? Wish it still had a kicker like to 400F as it would then most likely fire up first kick So think it’s time to pull the starter and strip it down for a refurb to see if that helps Thanks again all for all the advise Best wishes a d stay safe Al Ideally you need a current clamp around one of the main battery leads while you’re cranking or trying to crank it. If there’s mechanical resistance either in the starter motor or worse, the engine, then you’ll have abnormally high current flow. If there’s electrical resistance in a bad ground or weak battery lead then you’ll have abnormally low current flow. I’d estimate 60-100A is about right. Pretty sure your CB125TD has cdi ignition so not affected by battery voltage but it will be affected by abnormally low cranking rpm. Hi Russia Thanks for the info Took plugs out and put it in top gear and the engine spins over without too much resistance with plugs out when you turn the back wheel by hand but still a slug on the button so I think it’s got to be either the starter, solenoid or a bad connection Will check it all over in the next few days staring with the starter motor Thanks for all the advise Al
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