Crank seal

[pigboy]

Hi I’ve just rebuilt the engine and it’s not pulling above 7k when on load , I’ve cleaned the carbs removed brass ball, checked all electrical items and are all in range. I read somewhere that the manual shows the crank seal the wrong way round , which I may have followed, which this cause these symptoms as the right exhaust is a bit Smokey or would it still rev past 7 k ? .
I’m thinking the exhaust could be a problem and wondered what was best to clean it out with ?

[midlifecrisisrd]

Crank seal would most likely cause rough/poor running if leaking, not a 7k wall on load

Also fitting the seal the wrong way round should not make it leak

What bike is it and is the set up standard or modified

Also did you replace any carb parts and if so did you use genuine parts?

Steve

[pigboy]

Hi Steve yes I did change parts for the carbs , not genuine though , where’s the best place to buy genuine ones , everything is standard 185 jets

[pigboy]

Hi Steve yes I did change parts for the carbs , not genuine though , where’s the best place to buy genuine ones , everything is standard 185 jets

[ajh]

Dec 29, 2020 10:59:42 GMT 1 pigboy said:

Hi Steve yes I did change parts for the carbs , not genuine though , where’s the best place to buy genuine ones , everything is standard 185 jets

www.allensperformance.co.uk/carb-kit/ or www.motocarb.com/ for genuine carb parts. I use Motocarb

[midlifecrisisrd]

As above or Norbo

Did you take the emulsion tubes out as well

Also are the float level measurements accurate from the carb body (at the cut out) and not the gasket

Are the pv's actually rotating?

Take the pulley cover off and rev over 7k and the pulley should turn anti clockwise

Then check the valves are the right way. You can fit them 180 degrees out

Last couple I've had not revving were way rich due to fuelling probs

Steve

[pigboy]

Hi Steve I haven’t taken the emulsion tubes out , do they just tap out or do you have to do any drilling I’ve checked the PV When switched on it rotates clockwise then closes where the alignment hole is , how far should it rotate when on Tick over

[midlifecrisisrd]

It should be closed at tick over

You need to take the emulsion tubes out. No point cleaning out the air jet behind the brass ball without cleaning where it goes to

Take the float bowls off (don't mix them up, they are different and will feck up the choke)

Remove the main jet and the washer under it

Screw the jet back in finger tight without the washer then tap the jet on the work bench

It should slide up into the slide area and come out

Steve

[pigboy]

Well I’ve taken the emulsion tubes out are they were really mucked up with some debris from the vapour blast

[midlifecrisisrd]

Well that will do it

Steve

[pigboy]

Thanks Steve I’d post a picture but not sure how I can

[midlifecrisisrd]

Dec 29, 2020 20:48:45 GMT 1 pigboy said:

Thanks Steve I’d post a picture but not sure how I can

Download the tapatalk app onto a smart phone then search for the forum on it. You can then post pictures direct from your phone

Steve

[pigboy]

[midlifecrisisrd]

Oh dear 😕

No point clearing out the jet behind the brass ball when all that sh1t is on the other side

Doesn't bare thinking about what those glass beads would do if they got into the engine

In my mind carbs should be fully stripped before vapour blasting and any small passages like the air correction circuit and oil feeds blanked off

I'd recheck behind the brass balls and check the oil spigots blow through before using them

Get an aerosol carb cleaner and blast through everywhere

Steve

[pigboy]

Hi Steve well,I’ve given the carbs a very good clean and taken her out for a little ride , completely different bike revs right the way round the clock , thanks for your help

[midlifecrisisrd]

Glad your sorted

Steve