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Post by chrisg on Nov 3, 2020 23:18:14 GMT 1
Use a copper 2p piece between the gears +1 Alex I have used this successfully but make sure that you use a constant pressure, ie dont hit the spanner/wrench with a hammer, as you may chip the pinion gear tooth.
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Post by jimblob on Nov 4, 2020 0:37:14 GMT 1
Thanks for the advice. I’ll give the clutch locking tool a go but If that’s not successful I’ll try the 2p trick.
Jimblob
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Post by pdxjim on Nov 4, 2020 0:55:05 GMT 1
Use a copper 2p piece between the gears +1 Alex +2, a (small a) american penny works well, too. IFIRC, this is the way recommended in the Haynes manual. ... a shop rag works if you're skint.
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Post by steve h on Nov 4, 2020 1:08:42 GMT 1
2p aint copper anymore... now a cheapo mix.. devalued like the economy. (copper plated steel since 92) So a pre 92 one is good to go, probably find them on ebay for a fiver in "gear locking tool for two strokes"
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Post by dusty350 on Nov 4, 2020 8:06:25 GMT 1
Use an offcut of 15mm copper water pipe, flattened at the end with a hammer. Or as mentioned, rag will lock the primary gear up Dusty
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Post by jimblob on Nov 4, 2020 17:07:30 GMT 1
Cheers for all the advice.
I’ve just been sweating in the garage.........at the thought of damaging the clutch basket!!! 😁
Well I got the front sprocket off locking the back wheel, then tried the clutch holding tool to remove the nut on the primary drive and realised I’d need arms like Popeye, so rag it was. Came off ok.
Biggest surprise was clutch locking nut. I was preparing myself for a right battle, gouges to nuckles, swearing, Nosebleed, etc when it popped right off. Must have been all of 20 ft/lbs. I think mr mechanic forgot to tighten it Properly last time!!!!! 😬
Jimblob
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Post by chrisg on Nov 4, 2020 19:32:45 GMT 1
Make sure that the clutch holding tool is pushed home to the back of the clutch to minimise the stress on the basket. I ended up using a impact wrench to get the clutch nut off. I think it was put on by the factory. If its been off before, it may not be as tight.
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