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Post by jimblob on Oct 25, 2020 12:52:59 GMT 1
Hi,
I’m itching to start taking the engine out of the frame on my RD350R Which has been stood for years. Before I go a bit mad with the spanner are there any jobs I need to do that are a lot easier with the engine still In the frame and in one piece? Should I flush the coolant system first etc.
Cheers
Jimblob
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Oct 25, 2020 12:58:42 GMT 1
Yes you will need to disconnect radiator and flush the coolant out. I always strip as much off whilst in frame to make it easier to handle and remove. Carbs off. Oil out. Side covers off etc. I leave oil pump in situ normally.
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Post by kostas on Oct 25, 2020 13:27:17 GMT 1
Take the side casings off and undo the crankshaft primary gear nut, dismantle the clutch and undo the basket retaining but. From the other side undo the flywheel nut and the sprocket gear nut.
These are all difficult to undo with the engine on the bench as you cannot really apply any force without taking the whole engine with you.
Kostas
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Post by stusco on Oct 25, 2020 13:56:30 GMT 1
Dammit where’s the stripper
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Post by chrisg on Oct 25, 2020 15:30:40 GMT 1
A few tips, take lots of photos before hand. I always put associated nuts, bolts, washers in a small tub and mark them up. If your disconnecting any electrical plugs/bullet connectors, mark both sides with a marker on some masking tape. As mentioned maybe slacken the head bolts off with the engine in the frame. If you need to remove the clutch basket, use the correct tool for holding the basket in place. If your going to be doing this again and again in the future, maybe worth investing on a impact wrench. If something isn't moving, there may be a reason, dont just attack it with a hammer.
Watch this, it may help.
There are a lot of guys ( and girls?) on here with a wealth of knowledge and are more than happy to help.
Good luck Jimblob
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Post by jimblob on Oct 25, 2020 15:45:10 GMT 1
Wow, I’m so glad I asked this before doing anything else.
I was thinking just drain the coolant/oil then get cracking.
Makes sense to remove as much as possible and tackle stubborn fasteners
Thanks for all the advice guys. I’ll no doubt be back later with a problem or three!!!
Jimblob 👍
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Post by dusty350 on Oct 25, 2020 15:52:50 GMT 1
Definitely loosen the main nuts as Kostas said. So much easier with the engine held securely in the frame. Also, wash as much of the crud off the sprocket side as possible before dismantling - you can park the bike over a large tub or bucket - I use clean petrol as it shifts most stuff you'll find on an engine. Just makes life easier when the engine is on the bench. And build yourself an engine stand out of a couple of offcuts of 3x2 and a bit of ply - well worth the effort and makes life a LOT easier; 20200124_203526 by dusty miller, on Flickr Lots of digital pics as you go, and put all components in large sealable freezer bags. You can then refurb each part(s) in turn - great whilst waiting for parts to come back or specialist jobs getting done. Dusty
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Post by steve h on Oct 25, 2020 16:10:25 GMT 1
The digital camera is an essential piece of kit, especially as the years rather blunt ones memory! And be careful you dont enjoy it too much... you may find yourself knee deep in bike parts and bills, dwindling funds and an exasperated partner (Can lead to divorce in some extreme cases)
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Post by jimblob on Oct 25, 2020 20:37:17 GMT 1
Some great advice there. Thanks guys
I don’t think the other half realises how long this long term project is going to take 😀
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Post by JonW on Oct 26, 2020 6:33:34 GMT 1
One bit of advice... Enjoy it! The process can be frustrating, but it is very rewarding. Sure it will cost a lot of money, but its an investment compared to smoking, eating, drinking, movies etc. Always use the correct puller for the f/wheel and a JIS screwdriver. The rest you might well be able to fudge
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Post by dusty350 on Oct 26, 2020 7:59:46 GMT 1
I use a cheapish Aldi rattle gun for the internal bolts/screws. There are a few on the clutch side especially that can be stubborn to move, and the heads chew really easily. I hated having to use an old style impact driver - whacking the granny out of it to try and move old fasteners - the rattle gun makes it a breeze with no heavy impact. Correct tools are essential, and it's worth getting them all - after all, it's a 2 stroke so you are unlikely to only use them once !! Dusty
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Post by chrisg on Oct 26, 2020 10:46:47 GMT 1
One bit of advice... Enjoy it! The process can be frustrating, but it is very rewarding. Sure it will cost a lot of money, but its an investment compared to smoking, eating, drinking, movies etc. Always use the correct puller for the f/wheel and a JIS screwdriver. The rest you might well be able to fudge I was going to say the above. Take your time and enjoy, 😀
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Post by steve63 on Oct 26, 2020 13:56:47 GMT 1
The digital camera is an essential piece of kit, especially as the years rather blunt ones memory! And be careful you dont enjoy it too much... you may find yourself knee deep in bike parts and bills, dwindling funds and an exasperated partner (Can lead to divorce in some extreme cases) Digital camera? They didn't exist when I stripped my motor and now I have to find all the bits and put it together I'm starting to worry now the Mrs. is encouraging me to go in the garage, even suggesting I get a heater. Ah well, if she's got someone else it will give me even more free time.
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Post by jimblob on Oct 26, 2020 17:48:11 GMT 1
On the subject of rattle guns What max torque rating should I be looking at. Are those cheap flea bay jobbies up to it. Also do they need special bits for loosening screws.
Cheers
Jimblob
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Post by chrisg on Oct 26, 2020 20:18:20 GMT 1
I got a mains one from Lidl for £39 or you can gat a battery one from £60 plus. If you have the original screws, they are probably JIS And not Philips. Probably work investing in a set.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Oct 26, 2020 21:01:15 GMT 1
I got a mains one too
My thoughts were the infrequent use would shag any batteries
Steve
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Post by donkeychomp on Oct 26, 2020 22:41:24 GMT 1
I was going to say as a novice you'll need nipple tassles and a spangly g string for starters...then I realised what you actually meant... Alex
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Post by chrisg on Oct 26, 2020 22:46:00 GMT 1
I was going to say as a novice you'll need nipple tassles and a spangly g string for starters...then I realised what you actually meant... Alex Maybe he has ! Lol
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Post by jimblob on Oct 27, 2020 17:30:22 GMT 1
Only at the weekend!!! 😁
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Post by ypvsimon on Oct 27, 2020 21:55:26 GMT 1
Good luck with your stripping!! 😳🤣 I'm just fully stripping a basket case ypvs f2 project.. everything needs work.. the wallet won't like it!! but I'm loving every minute!!
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Post by chrisg on Oct 28, 2020 12:10:16 GMT 1
There is no denying that there is a massive sense of achievement when you look back on a refurb that may have taken years in some cases. I suppose that's why we do what we do. With or without nipple tassels
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Post by jimblob on Oct 28, 2020 15:53:43 GMT 1
Its getting a bit cold in the garage now. Time to dig the woolly tassels out.
One thing I need to decide on is what level of finish I am aiming for. Its certainly not going to be showroom condition but don't want it to appear too half arsed either. Quite fancy getting the cases vapour blasted and frame/swingarm re-sprayed and.....oh bloody hell!!!
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Post by stusco on Oct 28, 2020 16:04:32 GMT 1
It’s addictive
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Post by chrisg on Oct 28, 2020 19:17:33 GMT 1
This is where it starts. I’ve heard people start by overhauling the brake callipers. Then this shows the forks up and so it goes on, 18 months later you have a show pony 😂
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Post by jimblob on Oct 28, 2020 19:49:43 GMT 1
Show pony 😂 I’ll be happy if I don’t end up with a 3 legged donkey!!
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Post by ERic350 on Oct 30, 2020 12:31:00 GMT 1
Take the side casings off and undo the crankshaft primary gear nut, dismantle the clutch and undo the basket retaining but. From the other side undo the flywheel nut and the sprocket gear nut. These are all difficult to undo with the engine on the bench as you cannot really apply any force without taking the whole engine with you. Kostas Especially the front sprocket. Loosen the nut while the chain is still on. Else it's close to impossible to remove.
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Post by jimblob on Nov 3, 2020 19:05:03 GMT 1
Sooooo.......
I’ve now got my clutch holding tool and flywheel puller. Thanks Norbo 👍
Can I use the clutch holding tool to lock the Clutch and crank whilst I loosen the oil/water pump pinion nut on the right side of the crank.
I’m gonna get a flywheel holding tool for the flywheel nut.
I was gonna use the Haynes manual method to undo the front sprocket nut by putting in top gear and applying rear brake until I discovered rear brake is kaput!!! (No pressure)
I presume using a piece of wood to lock back wheel against swing arm with chain on sprocket is a no no!!!
Any advice greatfully received
Jimblob
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 3, 2020 19:08:11 GMT 1
I've used the block of wood through the wheel many times 😁
Steve
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Post by stusco on Nov 3, 2020 19:47:52 GMT 1
Use a copper 2p piece between the gears
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Post by donkeychomp on Nov 3, 2020 22:46:28 GMT 1
Use a copper 2p piece between the gears +1 Alex
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