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Post by Denzil on Oct 21, 2020 8:22:16 GMT 1
Hi chaps,
I was on my RD350 YPVS N2 the other day and heard a rattling sound, luckily I was only half a mile from home so I killed it and pushed it home (again) how many times have done this....
upon initial stripping down of the exhausts and plugs out which was all good thankfully, I took off the rotor cover and the rotor nut was undone with the generator rubbing on the cover.
My question is should I put a little bit of locktight on the Nut to hold it or will just doing it up really tight suffice.
Cheers.
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Post by dusty350 on Oct 21, 2020 8:23:22 GMT 1
Did it have a spring washer behind it ? Dusty  |
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Post by Denzil on Oct 21, 2020 8:26:04 GMT 1
Did it have a spring washer behind it ? Dusty Hi Dusty, yes all was complete, the large thick washer with the spring washer followed by the nut, all Genuine Yamaha from Norbski a few years ago. |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 21, 2020 9:25:49 GMT 1
I had the same problem and it only happened with one fly wheel. It came loose repeatedly. I ended up changing the flywheel and the problem was over.
You could use some Loctite on the nut thread. I choose not to because a good taper fit should not come loose. I was thinking the problem is in the fly wheel taper. Possibly cracked?
I also had the luxury of a couple of flywheels.
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Post by headcoats on Oct 21, 2020 9:57:56 GMT 1
Been mentioned to lap the flywheel on the taper with a bit of valve grinding paste
Just make sure you remove all traces of the paste afterwards
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Post by muttsnuts on Oct 21, 2020 10:48:35 GMT 1
be sure to torque the nut up to the right setting, most people don't have the means of holding the flywheel and torquing it up correctly, its very tight
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 21, 2020 10:55:15 GMT 1
Every time I opened it up I lapped the two together before re-tightening. It made no difference.
My advice would be to refit make sure its tightened to the correct torque and draw a line over the nut and fly wheel and regularly check it for the first couple of hundred miles.
With loctite if you want.
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Post by Denzil on Oct 21, 2020 11:19:24 GMT 1
be sure to torque the nut up to the right setting, most people don't have the means of holding the flywheel and torquing it up correctly, its very tight Hi Mutts, would you have the torque setting so i can do it up to that value. I have two long pieces of steel bolted together to make a Y shape, there are two bolts in these which go into the holes on the Rotor only around 5mm but just enough to hold it in place so I can then tighten it up. I am guessing I just did not do it up tight enough. |
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Post by dusty350 on Oct 21, 2020 11:31:17 GMT 1
8.5 kgf.m or 61 lbf ft. I too draw a straight line across the nut and crank end so you can easily see if the nut has moved in use  20200626_180029 by dusty miller, on Flickr |
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Post by chrisg on Oct 21, 2020 12:00:19 GMT 1
Been mentioned to lap the flywheel on the taper with a bit of valve grinding paste Just make sure you remove all traces of the paste afterwards Just going to suggest that. The flywheel may not be the original for that bike. |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 21, 2020 13:11:34 GMT 1
8.5 kgf.m or 61 lbf ft. I too draw a straight line across the nut and crank end so you can easily see if the nut has moved in use 20200626_180029 by dusty miller, on Flickr That's a very easy way of checking  |
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Post by stusco on Oct 21, 2020 14:22:19 GMT 1
If you have a porthole 😃
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Post by marrcel on Oct 22, 2020 7:22:58 GMT 1
8.5 kgf.m or 61 lbf ft. I too draw a straight line across the nut and crank end so you can easily see if the nut has moved in use 20200626_180029 by dusty miller, on Flickr Thats a beautiful solution. I have plastic cover (pv) which is damaged by the flywheel. May be i glue a transparent in. 👍 |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 22, 2020 12:36:50 GMT 1
Interesting info here and a bit of thread hijacking
I’m about to put into action the Accu Products flywheel drive nut which allows the starting of the bike by using a drill to spin the flywheel to crank the engine over
It involves removing the original flywheel retaining nut and replacing it with a flanged nut, then installing the drive nut onto the flywheel which fits over the new flanged nut, unfortunately I was sent the wrong nut by the supplier
I’ve been in contact with the supplier and we both agree that sending a $2 nut with $25 postage isn’t worth the effort and it will take about 2 months to get to me, such is the state of international freight at the moment
So after a bit of checking of threads on the nose of the taper it’s an M12 x 1.25 pitch nut, the nut I have found is flanged with serrations under the flange, does anyone think that these serrations will be an issue ? (The flanged nut that holds the indicators on my F1 are the correct thread)
Cheers
Howard
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Post by JonW on Oct 22, 2020 13:08:35 GMT 1
Why do you need the flanged nut at all Howard? Im sure that Mark (mboddy on here) didnt use any special nut on his TZ350 when using a battery drill to start it, all it took was a hole in the cover and a drill with enough torque to overcome the engine and enough revs to spin it fast enough. Worked like a charm at Eastern Creek when I pitted for him last year. I believe the beauty with this solution was that you were never undoing the nut to turn the engine over the right way, so you were always spinning it clockwise etc.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 22, 2020 14:30:09 GMT 1
Hi Jon
The starter nut has a left hand thread that screws into where the flywheel removal tool would go, the original flywheel nut is rather tall hence the use of a lower profile nut to enable the starter nut to attach to the flywheel centre without fouling the original nut
as the flywheel turns anti-clockwise as you look at it when the engine runs, the starter nut will always be tightened so to speak, does the TZ flywheel spin the opposite direction?
If I try and turn the RZ engine the correct direction it is essentially trying to undo the flywheel nut in practice that may not happen, however I don’t want to take the chance
This how Accu Products designed their tool to work, one of the guys on here put me onto it, OEB actually
My idea was to have a hole drilled in the plastic casing into which I put the socket attached to a drill as you described above, my only issue is that my current corded drill hasn’t enough torque to turn the engine, so going shopping for one that does
Off to borrow the neighbours 18V brushless Makita and give it a burl, I’ll know what torque it gives by its specs and if it doesn’t work, well then I know I’ll need more grunt
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 22, 2020 17:31:08 GMT 1
Interesting info here and a bit of thread hijacking I’m about to put into action the Accu Products flywheel drive nut which allows the starting of the bike by using a drill to spin the flywheel to crank the engine over It involves removing the original flywheel retaining nut and replacing it with a flanged nut, then installing the drive nut onto the flywheel which fits over the new flanged nut, unfortunately I was sent the wrong nut by the supplier I’ve been in contact with the supplier and we both agree that sending a $2 nut with $25 postage isn’t worth the effort and it will take about 2 months to get to me, such is the state of international freight at the moment So after a bit of checking of threads on the nose of the taper it’s an M12 x 1.25 pitch nut, the nut I have found is flanged with serrations under the flange, does anyone think that these serrations will be an issue ? (The flanged nut that holds the indicators on my F1 are the correct thread) Cheers Howard Put it in a 3 jaw Chuck and skim it or carefully file the serrations away. There will be enough tolerance in the threads to take up some mis alignment unless your cross eyed. |
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Post by JonW on Oct 23, 2020 7:43:47 GMT 1
Howard, drop Mark a PM on here or 2SDU, Im sure he will give you the gen on the conversion and the drill (it was a Makita) he bought.
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