clutch problems

[roach3]

so I know this forum is full of solutions for dodgy clutch and ive searched and read everyone but im still in the dark

so I finished the resto on my lc2 and finally get to the point of first start up

bike took 10 kicks but eventually fired up and running fine.

put in gear and bike is creeping forward slightly.

now while this was apart I setup the clutch as per manual/this forum

adjustment at lever fully wound in

undo locknut and screw in till aligned arrows on top casing

lock it all up. adjust free play at lever. result nice light action.

although it was difficult to spin the wheel in gear with the clutch in I just thought once the oil was in

and engine running it will get easier and release better.

I was wrong.

so off with the side cover and had a good look at everything.

pulling in lever the pressure plate moves around 2 mm and all but the very first friction plate move freely

and although the rear wheel moves its very stiff.

if I adjust the screw in any further I lose all freeplay and the clutch action is very heavy and its still dragging the rear wheel in gear

this clutch has a new gen yam clutch cable

new gen pressure plate/mushroom/screw/locknut/gen yam clutch springs

ive measured the frictions and they seem in spec, not checked the steels

so before I go spend another tonne on a full set of plates is the anything ive missed ?

sorry for the long post

charlie

[shaunthe2nd]

I had something similar with a 4L0.
I sorted it by putting it up on centre stand to raise rear wheel and running the bike up through all the gears whilst stationary for 5-10 mins.
Eventually it all bedded in and adjusted up fine.

[roach3]

ta mate im up for any ideas at the moment
got a feeling the drum is fecked as theres quite a bit of left to right movement

meaning the rubbers are goosed and although ive not checked im guessing there will be grooves in it

[tacky1]

Sounds to me like the steels are dished, Thats the symptoms you are describing...

[roach3]

Previous owner said all the plates were replaced not long ago
But I’ll stick a new set in,
Any recommendations?

[dusty350]

www.mb-designs.co.uk/page12.php?view=productListPage&category=13#

This is what I've used in the last 2 Lc engine rebuilds I've done. Only use 3 of the springs though. Putting all 6 in makes the clutch lever torturous Proven quality with EBC parts. Soak the fibre plates well before fitting too - I leave mine overnight.
Have a good look at your basket too whilst it's apart. The fingers can get quite deep wear grooves that can be dressed out with a file. Some rotational play between basket and ring gear is acceptable - some say up to 5mm, so the dampers may be ok.

Dusty

[marrcel]

Change the plates and take the large Orings out. Solved the problem for me

[roach3]

ok so ive purchased ebc frictions soaked for 12 hours and gen yam steels new gen yam springs
new gen yam pressure plate mushroom screw locknut and washer.

tightened diagonally but not torqued as yet
all play taken off at the perch, arrows lined up and locked up at the hub

before all this there was quite a bit of resistance turning the rear wheel by hand with the clutch pulled in as i expected.
but its exactly the same with the new stuff i, i was expectng it to be a little easier
i realise it may all free off once the bike is running.
so is this normal? dont want to be draining all the fluids off if it could be something im missing

thnx guys

[andymoore]

I had a 4l1 same problem years back the ballbearing was missing from the center of the shaft

[Tobyjugs]

I always have a sticky or dragging clutch if not used for a couple of days, but once started and run for 5 minutes it's over and everything is very good. I've always blamed the oil I use.

[madmick]

As above, we ride trials bikes and when not used for a while we have the same symptoms. Might just be the oil.
Take it up the road and see if that does the trick.

M.M.

[stusco]

I have to rock mine back and forward with it in gear with the clutch pulled to get it released after that it’s fine
Ps it was fine before I fitted oversize frictions

[looey]

Jun 19, 2019 7:44:45 GMT 1 stusco said:

I have to rock mine back and forward with it in gear with the clutch pulled to get it released after that it’s fine
Ps it was fine before I fitted oversize frictions

My YPVS engine does exactly the same, even if just left a few hours.

It's had every type of gear oil in it and the clutch rebuilt with all new parts but it's still the same. Like you, I just rock it free before starting and it's fine otherwise lol

[muttsnuts]

Jun 13, 2019 11:32:58 GMT 1 dusty350 said:

www.mb-designs.co.uk/page12.php?view=productListPage&category=13#

Dusty

I have that kit on stock, its £65 plus postage if anybody needs one

[roach3]

forgot to reply with this
as many have mentioned it just stalls when its been left standing
but after a few mins its perfect nice and light with no slipping
its something i can live with and not a deal breaker

what strange is that of all the lcs and ypvs ive owned 1980-95
not one of them was like this and prob with well used clutches
compared to my almost new clutch on this bike

[4l04ever]

Try using Comma Eurolite Semi Synthetic engine oil in the gearbox. Has helped with getting neutral too.

[earthman]

Jul 19, 2019 23:57:06 GMT 1 roach3 said:

forgot to reply with this
as many have mentioned it just stalls when its been left standing
but after a few mins its perfect nice and light with no slipping
its something i can live with and not a deal breaker

what strange is that of all the lcs and ypvs ive owned 1980-95
not one of them was like this and prob with well used clutches
compared to my almost new clutch on this bike

Out of interest, how does the pull on the clutch lever feel, fairly strong and heavy?

I still wanna have mine apart at some point, I were told that it had uprated springs fitted, I'd like to try standard ones/new original plates at least, I've already fitted a new OEM cable but no joy.

[dono]

You don’t mention were you purchased your parts from. There are suppliers that are selling “genuine original parts” which are definitely not genuine original. I came foul of this with clutch springs, it was really obvious when compared with actual original parts and taking measurements.. cheers Dono

[roach3]

ok this bike came to me with the clutch lever really difficult to pull in
the previous owner had some clutch slip and fitted 3 heavy duty springs to counter this
there was no way i could ride this bike like this and was one of the many reasons i decided
to do a major resto on it
so stripping the bike down the first thing i noticed was it had a pattern clutch cable and

on top of that the clutch was adjusted all wrong.

also had a pattern clutch lever and i wasnt sure if the perch was correct so a new gen yam lever and perch was purchased

 i managed to find a genuine 29L nos cable
i fitted this before i took the engine out just to see the difference.
to say it was like night and day would be an understatement
so i knew that would at least cure the ridiculously stiff clutch.
i researched this forum on clutch problems regarding slip,drag etc just to get an idea
of what to expect when i rebuilt the bike
when it was altogether i couldnt get the clutch to disengage and noticed the pressure plate only lifting one side
when the clutch was pulled despite being built correctly
so instead of chasing a problem i went the whole hog and bought
a new pressure plate of ebay
new mushroom section adjuster screw and locknut
new gen yam steel plates from fowlers
new gen yam springs from fowlers
new EBC frictions from brooks barn
filled with silkolene light gear oil
i also fitted a brand new clutch cover as the old one had a little rash on it, even the dipstick was crossed threaded
so a new dipstick aswell
the clutch drum was quite notchy from the old plates so i dressed them a little
when it was all built up the clutch was nice and light and the pressure plate and plates move in and out evenly
probably massive overkill i know but i didnt want to mess around draining and refilling oil chasing problems
so now the bike is finished the clutch still drags on initial startup but only for a minute or so, i can live with this
as once out on the road its perfect with no slip no drag a nice light clutch action and easy to select neutral
if i was picky i would say theres a little too much play with the cush behind the drum

but this can be sorted through the winter

this is a completely standard setup that can handle the fast road tune AJ did on this bike

so too sum up all parts were gen yam except the frictions which were EBC

hope this helps

charlie

[dono]

Good thing is you didn’t use yambits for any of your parts, this is were I had problems and really not recommended from most forum members. Fowler’s are spot on. Worth running the bike for a while in my opinion as a clutch can bed in after a short time and behave 100% fingers crossed for you. Can be frustrating after putting the effort in. Cheers Dono

[roach3]

time will tell if the clutch drag gets any better mate but hopefully yes
the only thing ive had from yambits was indicator stems other than that everything has come from fowlers or norbos
and a few parts from forum members.
it now has a set of daves pipes on now
i plan to strip it again in the winter to do the clutch basket and powdercoat the frame
and a few other bits.

[roach3]

Jul 20, 2019 1:08:25 GMT 1 4l04ever said:

Try using Comma Eurolite Semi Synthetic engine oil in the gearbox. Has helped with getting neutral too.

ill put it on my list cheerz

charlie