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Post by donkeychomp on Feb 17, 2019 21:35:37 GMT 1
The shocks came out nicely, so I thought I'd get the coils off and have them powder coated Slight snag as the coils won't come out! With the bottom part of the engine in I thought I'd do the clutch actuator, but surely this ain't right... The rod goes all the way inside the engine without hitting anything on the other side. Hmm. So after that minor setback I thought I'd have a test run with the twin shock set up. I like that. And it's not far off where the mounting lugs need to be welded to the swing arm. Just awaiting some gaskets and spacers now and I can crack on! Alex
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 17, 2019 22:18:50 GMT 1
Hi mate Regards the pushrod. Have you got the clutch fully assembled, with mushroom, ball bearing, pressure plate all fitted ? If so that rod shouldn't be able to push through like that. And regards the angle of the swingarm. Remember that the chain wants a fairly level run to the back sprocket. If you angle the rear end down too much you will find it sawing through the swingarm in double quick time. I think you need to fit the chain to check the run before deciding where the shocks need to be Dusty
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Post by donkeychomp on Feb 17, 2019 23:23:23 GMT 1
Ah...had a feeling the clutch may have something to do with it! No it's not on yet, that's the next job to do.
As for the swingarm yes I need to get the run length straight. When I get the front wheel back on I can measure it up properly and then see exactly where to get the shocks mounted.
Thanks Dusty!
Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Feb 18, 2019 22:09:41 GMT 1
Problem solved....does help to have the clutch actually in...lmao Looking snazzy now... Alex
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 18, 2019 22:42:15 GMT 1
Looking great Alex That's coming on in leaps and bounds Dusty
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Post by donkeychomp on Feb 18, 2019 23:18:24 GMT 1
Thanks Dusty. Going to have to get it over to the engineers place soon, things need welding!
Alex
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Post by JonW on Feb 19, 2019 0:01:18 GMT 1
With the shocks, be careful where you site the fixings. you dont want the shocks too upright, or led down. Have a look at other bikes to get an idea of what is good, if you follow the swing of the swinger with the spring off the shock you should find a place where the damper is pushed in, but not fighting the arc, IYKWIM.
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Post by donkeychomp on Feb 19, 2019 1:08:01 GMT 1
WTFDIYKWIM mean? As I said before Jon I need to get the front wheel back on and then align everything. Sadly I now fear another sprocket issue as the front is 520...the rear isn't! I'll get the shocks bang on but with some extra mounting holes for on the spot adjustment for that crucial extra 1mph when crouching right down lol. Alex
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 19, 2019 8:32:24 GMT 1
+1 on Jon's thoughts regards the shocks. As you say Alex, with the front wheel in, it will be easier to gauge where the swingarm needs to sit "at rest", and that will help with chain run too. Remember the top loop on that arm may give a false reading of swingarm position - the standard arm being a single tubular design with the bottom shock mounts quite near the end of the arm. This arm looks longer too, so your shock mounts wont equate to the standard Rd swingarm mounts. Also bare in mind the top loop needs to miss the frame tubes on compression. If you were purely drag racing this you could fit solid bar to stiffen the rear end so it didn't squat under acceleration, but as you'll be using it on the road, the position of the shocks is really important. You may find you will need longer shocks than standard to find the happy medium. I do think that this conversion may be better with a monoshock set up. Nk style plates on the swingarm and the Lc style top mount on the frame. And I think you will have an easier time with sprockets than you did on the little 50. The output shaft is much bigger on the 250 Rd engine. Dusty
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Post by donkeychomp on Feb 19, 2019 23:03:53 GMT 1
Right. New sit rep.
Dusty popped over today and he torqued the clutch nut in place. Then explained that the plates have to go on in a clockwise fashion...and then suggested the friction plates should be soaked in transoil first so they are! Thanks mate, your help is invaluable.
And whilst we discussed both the Popsicle and this bike he noticed that the shock mounts on the frame had been welded up! I had been using the holes where the subframe bolts onto. Ooops. This opened up a fresh discussion and I may just get this moono shocked instead. I have a YPVS shock so that can be used. It may well be cheaper than opting for twin shocks too. So when some front wheel spacers arrive I'll get everything level (chain run etc) and see exactly what needs chopping off, aligning, drilling, welding and probably swearing at.
Cheers Jon Dusty and everyone who's voiced an opinion/idea/thought or whimsy as it's all been great advice!
Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Feb 20, 2019 21:00:14 GMT 1
So. Clutch plates back in, correctly this time. Hooked up the cable. Hot damn I have a working clutch! Alex
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 20, 2019 21:09:25 GMT 1
Looking good Alex Did you line the arrow on the front of the pressure plate up with the mark on the shoulder of the inner hub ? I'm not sure how essential that is, but that is what you are supposed to do when rebuilding the clutch. Dusty
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Post by donkeychomp on Feb 20, 2019 23:04:55 GMT 1
Dammit! Well it's only 6 bolts lol. I will check tomorrow Dusty.
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Post by 4l04ever on Feb 21, 2019 11:52:18 GMT 1
Looking good Alex Did you line the arrow on the front of the pressure plate up with the mark on the shoulder of the inner hub ? I'm not sure how essential that is, but that is what you are supposed to do when rebuilding the clutch. Dusty If it is not lined up correctly, the pressure plate will not fully seat, and will not be pressing on the clutch plates. If you look at the back of the pressure plate, it has a cut-out, shaped like a gear which matches the inner hub, but it does not fit in all rotations. I had this exact issue a few weeks ago and discovered the cut-out in the back of the pressure plate has to line up. Look into one and you will see :-)
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Post by donkeychomp on Feb 21, 2019 22:01:08 GMT 1
Gaskets from 4L04ever (cheers!) and that engine mount turned up today so first off, fit the mount. Then the barrels... They went on quite easily, piston rings and me don't normally work well. Heads went on next... Then the carbs. Some folk say LC inlet rubbers won't fit an RD some say the opposite. Well, they DO fit! Veg's Gamma carbs are going to finally see some action! The wheel spacers are en route so next step is get that front end done and size everything up. I will be checking the clutch as well, thanks for all the info chaps! Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Mar 1, 2019 20:58:57 GMT 1
The wheel spacers arrived today. Custom made for the Mito forks by Alan Kelly from here and stunning to look at. So they got squeezed in... Then the wheel went on Next I wanted to get the chain clearance right. Using the perennially popular CAD method (pun intended) there seems enough room now. I can easily adjust things later on. Then the second exhaust got a quick clean... And I had a trial fit. Got an idea of how to mount these without having to resort to welded on brackets. And the kill switch is on! If I get some time tomorrow I'll test my mounting theory...notice I said 'theory'... Alex
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Post by 4l04ever on Mar 2, 2019 1:34:39 GMT 1
Is the theory a bungee cord over the seat??? :-)
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Post by donkeychomp on Mar 2, 2019 1:54:34 GMT 1
Dammit....
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Post by donkeychomp on Mar 2, 2019 20:53:27 GMT 1
Using a bit of MDF I knocked this up. If I replicate that in some ally, perhaps with holes in it for extra lightness, and have it angled at the top so it moulds around the frame...it might work. Best I can think of at the moment. The foot rests have no proviso for an exhaust to mount onto...Any thoughts? Alex
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 2, 2019 21:46:18 GMT 1
Hi Alex Why not cut off the brackets from the exhausts and get them welded on in a different place _ It's not like you are ruining a chromed finish, and someone like Clive can get a really neat cut to get the brackets off, smooth off the metal so you would never know the brackets were there originally, then reweld in a more convenient place to pick up a mount on footpegs or frame. That would be a better way of doing it, both for function and looks I think. Bike is looking good Dusty
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Post by donkeychomp on Mar 2, 2019 23:10:50 GMT 1
Yes I could do that Dusty and probably will eventually but I wanted to see what the pipes look like on the bike before some serious cleaning starts on them! I'm pretty much at that stage where a trip to see Clive is on the cards, and for both bikes too.
Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Mar 4, 2019 22:39:58 GMT 1
The coils turned up today albeit with only one plug cap but no worries I have some new ones. Snag #1... Chipped and the NGK logo should be in white. It isn't. However I contacted the seller who was very happy to help out. In fact he checked all his new stock and to his surprise they are all like that. However he has some old stock that are fine so he's winging them out to me. Nice to see a genuine seller out there! Snag #2... With the coils on the tank won't fit! I have tried putting the coils all over the frame and not a chance. There are other options like under the seat so that might have to do. Means some bloody long HT leads lol. That or go for the modern look and try to find a different tank with a fair bit of space underneath... Alex
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 5, 2019 8:33:21 GMT 1
That coil bracket has been butchered mate. If that's an E frame the brackets are wrong anyway, plus the E had a single coil with twin leads, like an Lc, and mounted from underneath the top spine. Even on the earlier frame with your kind of twin coils, the coils sat more inside the frame than yours do. I will sort a pic later if you need it. Another job for Clive I reckon Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 5, 2019 8:38:44 GMT 1
Found it ! This is the coil bracket on a C or D, which is how the twin coils you have would mount; 20180404_161417 by dusty miller, on Flickr If Clive welded in a pre drilled plate, I reckon both coils would sit inside the frame tubes easily enough Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 5, 2019 8:59:06 GMT 1
Having just looked at your earlier pics, you may be able to knock the brackets back into their normal position to get the coils sitting in the right place. Then get Clive to weld the two halves of the bracket together - a 2 second job !! Dusty
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 5, 2019 15:48:12 GMT 1
Alex on modern sports bikes the pillion foot peg brackets hang down in a V form. They might look good connected to the chassis rail.
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Post by donkeychomp on Mar 5, 2019 20:33:31 GMT 1
Cheers lads. Dusty you were bang on. I (ahem) persuaded the mounts to move back to the correct position... So now they are tucked back in the tank fits again! New zorst studs went in. The bike had two and one was bent I've ordered some P clips for the exhausts. And I have a good idea where to mount the footrests but that will involve a trip to the engineers for some welding! Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Mar 8, 2019 21:15:34 GMT 1
Ordered the P clips and they arrived today. Nice and simple and that will suffice for the moment. And Dusty's old YPVS shock is ready to go on... Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 2, 2019 21:51:24 GMT 1
Finally found a few spare minutes and cleaned up the stator. Turned out very well But I am perplexed by the three mounting screws. Found a bolt with the correct thread and it screws in just fine... Won't actually fit the stator holes though! Any ideas? Alex
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Post by sispeed on Apr 3, 2019 15:14:13 GMT 1
There are holes for M5 and M6 in the Engine. Use the M5 ones Regards Siggi
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