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Post by 4l04ever on Jun 5, 2019 23:29:06 GMT 1
What carbs would you be after, as I know of a set of 4CE ones? They are like powervalve ones, but need a different choke plunger as thread is slightly bigger than F2 type carbs.
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Post by donkeychomp on Jun 5, 2019 23:34:54 GMT 1
My loaner carbs are standard RD250 A/C ones. I have a pair of Gamma ones from Veg but none of the internals have been fitted (I do have them all) and carbs to me are a dark and mysterious art lol. So eventually I will have to return the RD carbs so I'm after anything that I can just bolt on and ride really. Though I may persuade a friend to rebuild the Gamma ones for me.
I am intrigued by your 4CE ones. I know LC and A/C carbs can be used on either bike...would yours fit? Not sure what bike they were used on!
Alex
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Post by 4l04ever on Jun 5, 2019 23:54:51 GMT 1
They are off the later 350 YPVS R model (Brazil model). They were not in too bad a condition and they have been ultrasonic cleaned since. They are my mates ones, so if you are interested, let me know and I can ask him for a price. They will fit in standard AC/LC/YPVS inlet rubbers.
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Post by donkeychomp on Jun 5, 2019 23:57:45 GMT 1
I am interested for sure if you could ask him that would be great Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Jun 10, 2019 21:47:26 GMT 1
The loaner carbs arrived today. Brand new and (almost) Mikunis. And I picked up a battery from Dusty (thanks matey!). I am informed it only holds a charge for an hour or so but seeing it only needs to work for a minute or so at a time, that'll do just fine! So I now have everything I need to start the engine. I will make a basic loom and I'll need a remote fuel tank (I'm sure I can cobble something together) and then give her a kick and see what happens. No...I won't forget to add oil, and both types! Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Jun 18, 2019 21:21:56 GMT 1
I've moved Elsie back again to get on with the drag bike. First fit the loaner carbs... The cone filters are just there to keep any crud out, I'll use pod filters when I get some. Then hit a snag as the throttle cables are too wide to seat into the tops of the carbs. Hmm. I did find an ideal place to site the battery though... Then came across more snags Front wheel doesn't align. I need to get a small section machined off and a spacer made for the other side. Not a big deal really. The sprockets don't line up either so some more pondering is called for. And I need to make a small loom to connect the battery to the kill switch, coils and generator. So I think I'll get the forks and wheel over to the engineers place, then while they do that I'll drop the engine back out and take the frame and swing arm there for some mounting lugs/brackets to get welded on. Alex
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Post by veg on Jun 18, 2019 21:42:58 GMT 1
Inventiveness is the mother of all invention or something like that :0
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Post by donkeychomp on Jun 18, 2019 22:08:15 GMT 1
And then some... This is all fairly straight forward. However it has now dawned on me the front brake is all wrong. The YZF disc is too small and the caliper is all wrong, so I might be pinching both off the LC and getting the Mito front disc adapted to the YZF wheel. And that sprocket alignment is miles out. Hang on, did I just say straight forward? Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Jun 24, 2019 21:10:56 GMT 1
What with the drag bike having the same front forks and yoke set up as on the LC I thought I'd need Mito yokes for this bike too...however I don't think I do. The YZF front wheel on it is narrower than a Mito one and the tyre is skinnier, so a Mito caliper just goes straight on... I do need to get a little shaved off the wheel and a spacer made but apart from that all is good. But it does mean I need another Mito caliper!! Then after a call from Peter to discuss the loom idea I made a start. The coils both have orange wires coming off them and connect to the points...but the points wires are one grey and one orange. Hmm. Still I'm sure that can be resolved. As for the carbs and the cables not fitting I'll just have them on...but not actually adjustable. Doesn't matter really as the engine only needs to idle. So I'm going to get some petrol tomorrow and add 2 stroke, fill the engine with oil and hope for the best! Just realised I need a temporary fuel tank. Anybody made one? Maybe an upside down plastic bottle with a tube in it would suffice... Alex
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jun 25, 2019 2:50:05 GMT 1
I use a coke bottle with a piece of small plastic tubing pushed through the plastic top and it does not leak. I use it for deionised water, topping up batteries and sucking out acid.
I just drilled the hole in the top 1mm smaller the the diameter than the pipe. It works well.
It might work if the fuel doesn't melt the bottle.
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 25, 2019 7:48:28 GMT 1
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Post by donkeychomp on Jun 25, 2019 21:29:45 GMT 1
Oh yes forgot about those. Funny thing is the bolt place sells them Dusty. And a fiver too, not £21! I'll pop over and get one.
So now the wiring is all finished and the next step is check and double check everything is bolted up properly. Fit the carb cables albeit temporarily and add oil...oh, best charge the battery too! If she fires up (if...what am I saying!)...when she fires up I'll get a quick video of it all happening, or catching fire or exploding. Then it's take it all apart again and off to the engineers for the welding-a-thon.
This will be happening hopefully on Friday...eek.
Alex
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Post by veg on Jun 29, 2019 8:00:05 GMT 1
Any news Alex? Does it live?
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Post by donkeychomp on Jun 29, 2019 11:23:05 GMT 1
Not tried yet as my truck is acting up....again!
Alex
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Post by Yogi on Jun 29, 2019 11:35:31 GMT 1
Oohhh the suspense 🥴
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Post by donkeychomp on Jun 30, 2019 21:19:11 GMT 1
Sorry everyone my internet has been down, just pinged back into life so hopefully I can say summat!
Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Jun 30, 2019 21:31:32 GMT 1
Sit rep then. Having issues with my truck and if that breaks down I can't look after my mum so this is a priority. The rear prop let go. Repaired. Starter motor quickly followed. Got a new one. Middle prop went bang and I mean it broke!! I had a spare but it was too long so the local engineers chopped it down and welded it back together. Took it to Feltham Propshafts and they bench tested it and declared it so badly done it's scrap. Now that really surprised me...so I got another prop and they cut it down and balanced it and that went back on. By now the costs are spiralling out of control I might add...then the bloody transfer case mounts decide they want to join the party so I have ordered more. Spent what spare time I had today 'adapting' something to replace the mounts and so far they are holding up.
I'll get back to the bike asap, honest!
Alex
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Post by veg on Jul 1, 2019 9:06:02 GMT 1
Never rains but it pours. Hope you get back on it soon.
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Post by donkeychomp on Jul 9, 2019 0:49:42 GMT 1
Another sit rep.
New transfer case mounts are on and the problem is even worse. Sounds like the gearbox and rear diff are going to explode. Got back under the truck and wobbled the front prop. Then I heard the clunk that I hear when driving. Now that is odd as in 2WD it's not engaged. Removed said prop and drove a little. Noise vastly reduced. Hmm. Drove her down the road. No gearbox/diff exploding sounds. It's an engine mount gone for sure. Ordered another. So while I await that I have just gone out and got the jerry can filled with petrol. Engine start up date is now Wednesday!
Alex
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Post by oldbritguy on Jul 9, 2019 5:23:20 GMT 1
On the edge of the sofa now! I hope the jerry can of petrol is for starting the bike and not resolving the truck issues John
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Post by donkeychomp on Jul 9, 2019 14:25:11 GMT 1
Yes mate it is!
Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Jul 10, 2019 21:35:52 GMT 1
So today was the day. Put it in neutral, oil in. Made a temporary fuel tank, petrol and 2 stroke in that. Put battery on charger and went to make a coffee. Come back and the battery is hissing and spitting water out! OK, unplug the charger. Now I was wondering if the battery had any charge at all to start the bike so I thought I'd check I had a spark first. Unscrewed plug and put it on the engine fins and turned on the kill switch. Went to kick her over and...
...seized. The kickstart wouldn't move at all. Maybe she's not seized but something is amiss. Next job is heads and barrels off and have a look I guess.
I am a tad disappointed to say the least...oh well.
Alex
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Post by stusco on Jul 10, 2019 22:03:02 GMT 1
I’d be looking behind the clutch casing first
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Post by 4l04ever on Jul 10, 2019 22:21:07 GMT 1
And check to make sure the flywheel is not jammed on the cover...
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Post by donkeychomp on Jul 10, 2019 22:34:11 GMT 1
Thanks for the advice lads I will have a looksie tomorrow.
Alex
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Post by 4l04ever on Jul 10, 2019 22:40:29 GMT 1
If it was turning as you built it, it must be one of the last parts fitted. Could be kickstart mechanism too.
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Post by donkeychomp on Jul 10, 2019 22:58:37 GMT 1
Yes everything moved freely so my 'seized' statement was probably wrong. Something is jammed though for sure.
Alex
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Post by dusty350 on Jul 11, 2019 7:07:40 GMT 1
I'm around today if you want me to have a look for you.
Dusty🙂
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Post by donkeychomp on Jul 11, 2019 11:28:56 GMT 1
Could be a good idea Dusty. Having a birthday lunch with the gf but I'll give you a call. Thanks matey.
Alex
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Post by dusty350 on Jul 11, 2019 15:20:33 GMT 1
Hi It's a C or D engine I believe so a fixed stator plate with points fitted. I would guess at kickstart mechanism too - if it's not fitted right/faulty and doesn't disengage it will lock up the clutch. Has the kickstart lever returned to it's upright position ? If not then that's the giveaway. I have this spare from a 250 C/D ; 20190711_150501 by dusty miller, on Flickr You can have it if yours is broken or suspect. Dusty
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