last week I started a thread in the technical section of this forum as my Rd wouldn't start. Due to all the shared knowledge in this forum I had her going in no time! Today I took her out for the first ride after I bought over ten years ago. It was in a poor and unloved condition and the challenge of rebuilding her proved too big at the time and I abandoned it after it was 80% ready. Lost month I finished the remaining 20% and today I took it out for the first ride. Wow! The first bike I owned was a Cagiva Freccia C10 125cc and after that it was four strokes only. My current bike being a Ducati 1000SC. This something completely different to the Duce. It has not got a lot of low down torque but at about 120Kg it is very light and plenty powerful. Brakes leave something to be desired but can be lack of use. Very happy to be back on a two stroke!
Thanks everybody! I'm so very pleased with the result I can myself hardly believe it. Next to be restored wil be my Bimota SB2. Not a two stroke but a true classic nonetheless. Two questions for the guys in the know. Is it normal for the engine and radiator to become resonably hot after just two kilometers of city riding? (Motormeter capillary temp gauge indicates 90deg). is there a way to check if the waterpump is working?
Last Edit: Nov 13, 2018 19:33:21 GMT 1 by Bakker RD
90 deg celcius is too hot (if it's reading correct?). What type of radiator are you using? Is it that tiny standard YPVS rad or a 4LO type. Take your themostat out and run it up. If your pump is working the difference in temperature between the water pump (pressure side) and just after the cylinder head cylinder head should be no more than 3 degrees. if you are getting a larger temperature differences then you will have poor flow. This could be due to blocked radiator or bad water pump. The pump and design make it very reliable if it is being driven, but i have had an overheating issues that i put down to bad pump clearance and small radiator. It caused the engine to nip up on the dyno bank.
Last Edit: Nov 13, 2018 19:02:03 GMT 1 by Tobyjugs
I think I still have the tiny YPVS rad. Does the 4LO type use the same mounting points, in other words is it a straight swap? I will perform the suggested test with my infrared temp gauge to see if something is wrong. I do not believe in a blockage as I recently fitted the head (completely clean) and al hoses. No blockage found. The only thing wrong, if there is something wrong, could be a waterpump malfunction but I think the rad would not be as hot as it is now if it doesn't work.
Great looking bike William, and a fantastic spec ! Lc and Pv rads are very different I'm afraid, and mounting points are different. You can get larger after market rads for both pv's and Lc's if you need one.
I bought the bike in 2008 near Beverwijk, which is close to Heerhugowaard were Bakker resides, and made a short detour to my home via his workshop. He immediately recognized the bike as a special he build in 1984 but claimed its current state was very different in many details. He also didn't like the yellow much;-) I was able to source photographs taken during the build in 1984 (see below). These show that the seat unit has changed and probably the fairing too. Pictures show Yamaha 31K bellypan fairing and most probably the original 31K bikini fairing was originally reused as wel but I never saw a photo of the finished bike so it remains an educated guess. However chassis, alloy fuel tank, tripple clamps, wheels, suspension and brakes seem the same. The mechanical anti-dive however is redesigned and the rear caliper is moved from the top to the bottom. I have no clue when and why this was done. The current fairing is a copy of the 1985 TZ250 fairing showing that the guy who modified it had a keen eye for period originality. In all honesty I never thought about converting it back to the way it was built in 1984 as I like the current look a lot better.