Righto joined up a week or so ago in anticipation of picking up someone else unfinished project. Long story short I had a similar but stocker 83 RZ250/350 25 yrs ago and it has always bugged me that I let it go.
Anyway 2 previous owners did a bunch of work to get this bike where its at today. Now not a lot needs to be done to get it road legal but for peace of mind I'll start pulling the covers back tmw and making a to do list.
Oil pump will be removed, even thou Ive been told that the worm was upgraded to the 350 Id prefer to take no chance. Coils and the water impellor are on the to do list and the typical RZ gearbox leak will get attention.
Apart from that a carby clean once all the other bits have been done and a bit of tuning so I can enjoy the rest of the bike over summer.
thanks Dusty350, almost feel guilty posting cause 2 other blokes put a bit of time and effort in and I just need to finish it off.
here's whats deen done to date
1983 RZ250K, 350 Barrels RGV Wheels, Forks, brakes, swingarm, braided lines. Ox racing pipes Ducati ducktail 748/916 Tank unsure C Fibre rear guard, CF side covers Mccrane foot controls ?? not 100% YSS rear shock Yamaha R1 speedo, have a yamaha cable , need to work out how to get it to work with the RGV fork/axle ?? Bar, headlight and mirror unknown brand, not keen on shiny mirrors so I might wrap
No idea on what the Carby set up is or what state the motor is, was promised that is was rebuilt not that long ago and not ridden.
Hi I recognised the early Rgv Vj21 running gear - I have the same on one of mine. Tank looks a bit like a Tzr250 3xv - if you Google it you will see the similarity. Oil pumps can be rebuilt to better than new - Arrow is our pump guru on the forum and does lots for guys here and abroad - great service and well worth doing. Keeping the pump will save you a load of hassle for sure.
Yeah Dusty I wasnt sure on the vintage of the RGV forks, previous owner reckons he did the spacer and roller bearing conversion but there is a small amount of play in the front. I will pull it apart and check out what he did because it wont get road worthy otherwise.
Already onto Arrow thanks, turns out I have an 350 drive in the 250 pump, pulling apart tmw to confirm whether the right 40tooth cog was used with it.
I dont need any hassle thats for sure. Any recommendations for heavier duty front springs, Im a 100kgs lol
Yep, Vj21 uses a 17" front wheel and an 18" rear. Upgrades for forks aren't as plentiful as they are for the later USD forks. I totally rebuilt mine and used new progressive springs - you could try heavier oil too, or just eat less pies !! You've got a 22 swingarm fitted though. Front yokes use the 5mm spacer under standard taper bearings, just like the USD front end, so easy to replace parts if needs be. Suzuki speedo drives are different to Yam. The part that goes into the drive on the wheel has a slot cut into it, so if you were to use a cable driven speedo, then you would need a cable from a Suzuki Bandit or something like it (maybe even Rgv but not sure on the length)
Not really a fan of playin with carbies but with a wet day in Sydney I dove into the deep end. Pulled the oil pump off first and even thou red paint was found on the oil pump body it would appear it has the both the right 350 worm drive and most importantly the matching 40 tooth Cog !!! ( I musta counted it about 10 times) hopefully confirmed by Arrow later today.
Dusty350 spoke to the previous owner, tank is an RGV.
OK so it looks like I might have a leaky right side crank case seal, keeps on foul the right plug and gearbox oil looks a little low. Anyway not going to attempt myself, what should I expect, whats the usual time to do both sides ??
thanks ringding, Ive just got too much on atm the moment and a poor set up in my garage. Im getting rid of a Civic racecar this week along with about 20 tyres this weekend and Ill do a big clean up, I may have a crack..... so a couple of hours ya reckon ?
Once it's out the bike I'd think it's maybe 3 or 4 hours. Depends on your speed of working I guess. I tend to do a little at a time, as I don't tend to have time very often. There's a tdr250 strip down guide somewhere on the forum I think.
So finally got the bike on the road a month ago, new crank bearing, crankcase seal, gear selector in. Racetech springs for a 95kgs rider. Currently 108kgs, lost 5kgs in the last month and the Im using the bike as motivation to lose the remain 13kg over the rest of the year. If I hit my goal Ill look at getting another RZ350 and doing my own hybrid build.
Bike runs strong out 9500rpm and with the short gearing and a gentle heave 3rd gear wheelies up my local hill are now possible lol.
Was having a real issue with finding neutral when hot, a change from Motul to Silkolene light gear oil and a quick shimming of the gear cable with som e3/8 brass washers and Neutral is like new.
Upgraded the Brake MC and lever to a GSXR1000 unit and it feels heaps better with the RGV brakes.
Grabbed some old stock Dunlop SP Alpha 13 real cheap and Ferodo sintered pads do an awesome job stops and turning things. Bike starts first kick every time and Im a bit shocked at how much Im enjoying the bike.
So now ridden my 350 all thru winter and Im struggling to keep water temps above 50 deg on the road, warms up to 72 when stopped at the lights lol.
Anyway probably done about 12-1300km at most and this morning I noticed a tiny puff of smmoke coming from the rear of the head gasket right in the middle, to be honest it may have been puffing for a while but I dont normally look in there. Anyway no drop off in performance and coolants is all good.
Now I had the motor pulled apart earlier this year and everything checked before fresh OEM gaskets were put thru out, can this 1 just be reused and sprayed with copper gasket spray torqued back up?
no coolant seems to have come out, Ive circled the area where the leak is, and i suspect the leak is closing up as things get warm.
So started the bike up briefly late this arvo and small puffs from the same spot, turned it off and then threw the torque wrench on and managed to tightened in the correct order every single bolt a smidge. Started up again and no puffs so I took it for a short run, got it hot and it seems to be pulling hard.