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Post by Yogi on Dec 6, 2018 21:32:32 GMT 1
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Post by jon on Dec 6, 2018 22:49:28 GMT 1
Nice clocks for a special Fz guages that I've got have a shroud around the idiot lights Matt I’ve got a set of Yamaha N clocks with a shroud. Memory says they were from a Japanese spec N? Look exactly the same as U.K. N clock faces/needles, just with KPH speedo. Jon
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 7, 2018 9:43:28 GMT 1
These are virtually identical to N2 clocks bucket/faceplate wise... I have tried googling but nothing to show for my searches. They are probably fzr 400 clocks or something like that with the high red line. There were also some naked bikes we didnt get Jap import as you say In that case the tacho may not work as it will probably use a 1 pulse per rev signal If you are using a ypvs cdi then you will need a later ypvs elec tacho that is triggered by the pv signal so not a pulse If using a Zeel or ignitech the fzr one should work as they have a pulse trigger Steve
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Post by nokturnal on Dec 7, 2018 11:28:29 GMT 1
I have F clocks to go into the cases. So no problem there. Done the F to N thing 3 or 4 times.
It was the cases I was really interested in. The plugs are different so defo not a direct swap.
N specific faceplates are NLA from yam... so you can’t even build your own. Wonder if these with the silver face on the idiot lights are still available.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 7, 2018 12:19:16 GMT 1
I have F clocks to go into the cases. So no problem there. Done the F to N thing 3 or 4 times. It was the cases I was really interested in. The plugs are different so defo not a direct swap. N specific faceplates are NLA from yam... so you can’t even build your own. Wonder if these with the silver face on the idiot lights are still available. I found a nos top plate the other day but it was ridiculously priced Steve
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Post by nokturnal on Apr 18, 2019 2:27:50 GMT 1
inquiring minds....
what does everyone do when they have two "pressure reliefs" in the cooling system. Y pipe? Plug one? I find I now have pressure relief in the head and the rad...
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 18, 2019 7:07:52 GMT 1
Hi With a valve engine in an Lc you have a couple of options. 1. Blank off the spigot on the Pv head. I've used a short bit of pipe with a bolt siliconed in before. Then drill a 3mm hole in the flat shoulder of the stat. This allows coolant to bypass the spring loaded plunger of the stat. 3mm is equal to the hole in the spigot. 2. Get an extra spigot welded onto your rad. More involved and costly of course for no real gain over option 1; 20190411_182209 by dusty miller, on Flickr The bottom pipe on the rad is from the Pv head. Hth Dusty
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Post by Tobyjugs on Apr 18, 2019 10:04:52 GMT 1
I've used both options as Dusty explained but prefer to use a pipe to the radiator because the small pipe on the cylinder head is at the top op the cylinder head theoretically letting any trapped air out of the cooling space in the cylinder head.
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Post by nokturnal on Apr 19, 2019 13:40:33 GMT 1
Would plumbing in a Y pipe into the overflow not do the same thing?
I suppose if I always let the bike warm up well, I can just blank the head and take the stat out...
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Post by nokturnal on Apr 28, 2019 12:45:56 GMT 1
After looking at the diagrams... I forgot about the pressure factor. No Y pipe then. Will be ordering a new them with hole... Blocking off the rear.
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Post by nokturnal on Jan 21, 2020 17:54:39 GMT 1
anyone have part number for the thermostat with the hole already in it?
getting going on this again after taking about 8 months off... new baby and baby momma with a bust leg did not help the progress.
will post up some pics soon of the new (plain white) paint.
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Post by nokturnal on Jan 21, 2020 17:58:53 GMT 1
Need to get going on this one too..
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Post by nokturnal on Jan 23, 2020 14:19:53 GMT 1
I am attempting to keep all the valve wiring intact for potential future use. As such I have jammed all of the electrics in the battery box and will mount the small lithium in the tail. It’s a pretty low-end paint job, pearl white, but the price was right and it got rid of the banana yellow/dents. Likely just going to stick a couple tuning fork domes on the tank and a decal on the side covers. Need to find someone to do this in all black.
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Post by headcoats on Jan 23, 2020 16:17:09 GMT 1
Imageworks will do anything you like
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Post by jon on Jan 23, 2020 20:31:05 GMT 1
Imageworks will do anything you like Decal wise of course. You have to pay a bit more for the anything you like service Jon
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Post by nokturnal on Feb 27, 2020 16:43:56 GMT 1
One step forward,two back it seems. Sure was a pain to get the servo in there... not sure how you jokers get it on there with a welded bracket on the frame... extended cables? It’s getting there... but before gassing it up I decided to see if there was spark... there wasn’t. Also... figured out how the PO got the rear wheel to line up with the stock LC engine... It’s a bit wide of the mark with the valve lump...
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Post by JonW on Feb 29, 2020 12:35:07 GMT 1
Good work Dana. You can see how i did my bracket to use OEM cables in my 251LC thread, might be useful.
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Post by nokturnal on Mar 1, 2020 14:19:25 GMT 1
Yeah... I have seen. Thanks Jon. Not sure why it didn’t work on mine. I made a bracket like your weld on jobbie. Didn’t seem to want to fit... at least with my patience... Hopefully this bike is done by the time the snow melts... seems I have a little bit. Given up gettin to the front door altogether.
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Post by nokturnal on Mar 13, 2020 13:34:19 GMT 1
I sourced and wired up an 85 stator and had a replacement cush machined. It runs! Behaves normally on the stand. Now just need to sort the front brakes and chain alignment and it’s ready to ride.
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