|
|
Post by philmill on Mar 10, 2018 9:34:21 GMT 1
Hi Guys, can I use and A2 stainless bolt for the 10mm bolt that goes through the knuckle as it mounts to the frame or is that too soft? do I need high tensile?
Thanks, Phil
|
|
|
|
Post by jon on Mar 10, 2018 9:45:40 GMT 1
Don’t use A2 stainless it has a lower shear strength than even normal 8.8 bolts.
A4 is only slightly better at near enough the same as an 8.8.
OEM bolts were high tensile.
Suggest you use the same.
Jon
|
|
|
|
Post by Yogi on Mar 10, 2018 9:45:52 GMT 1
I've had one in mine for 3 years with no probs
|
|
|
|
Post by jon on Mar 10, 2018 9:54:28 GMT 1
I've had one in mine for 3 years with no probs Matt, when manufacturers design things they build in what is known as a ‘safety factor’. I dare say even a stainless M10 is strong enough BUT it won’t be as strong as it was designed using an OEM bolt. IMO 10mm is weedy anyway. Also don’t use a fully threaded bolt (machine screw) as this will weaken it further due to two things. Firstly the root of the thread will be around 8.5mm diameter and also the ‘v’ of the threads will cause a stress raiser further adding to the possibility of shearing. Just out of interest I know we all like every bolt pristine, but you don’t even see that one once built, so why take the risk? I’ve had my OEM high tensile bolts re-plated in zinc. Jon |
|
|
|
Post by bazzer5115 on Mar 10, 2018 10:20:00 GMT 1
I use stainless bolts on all suspension joints,always have,but as mentioned buy them with the correct shoulder length(non threaded part)and cut to length,then as mentioned you are not effectively reducing the area where the shear forces are at their highest.
Baz
|
|
|
|
Post by Yogi on Mar 10, 2018 10:21:45 GMT 1
I've had one in mine for 3 years with no probs Matt, when manufacturers design things they build in what is known as a ‘safety factor’. I dare say even a stainless M10 is strong enough BUT it won’t be as strong as it was designed using an OEM bolt. IMO 10mm is weedy anyway. Also don’t use a fully threaded bolt (machine screw) as this will weaken it further due to two things. Firstly the root of the thread will be around 8.5mm diameter and also the ‘v’ of the threads will cause a stress raiser further adding to the possibility of shearing. Just out of interest I know we all like every bolt pristine, but you don’t even see that one once built, so why take the risk? I’ve had my OEM high tensile bolts re-plated in zinc. Jon You are right Jon I misunderstood what bolt he meant The bolts around the center stand on mine are stainless but all the rest are rezinced original Rgv/rd bolts |
|
|
|
Post by philmill on Mar 10, 2018 14:32:41 GMT 1
Thanks, I'll get an M10 high tensile, they are zinc plated anyway. the RGV ones that came with knuckle were all the wrong sizes so am changing them all.
Phil
|
|
|
|
Post by jon on Mar 11, 2018 10:39:49 GMT 1
Thanks, I'll get an M10 high tensile, they are zinc plated anyway. the RGV ones that came with knuckle were all the wrong sizes so am changing them all. Phil I remember that when I put my 2MA arm in my LC (modifies by NK with height adjuster) the lower suspension bolt was way wider than the LC. I sawed an LC front wheel spindle down, and faced it to length on the lathe before tapping a thread onto it. I couldn’t find the exact size I wanted with the amount of plain shank before the start of the thread. Jon |
|
|
|
Post by plumma on Mar 11, 2018 11:07:23 GMT 1
Stainless will be fine, just look at the center stand brackets that it bolts through. This will fail long before a bolt shears.
|
|
