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Post by fozzy17 on May 11, 2017 18:23:49 GMT 1
Right I have a F1 31k when I bought it it needed going through, so fitted a battery and pulled the carbs pulled out emulsion tubes and idle and main jets and stuck them in my ultrasonic cleaner, started straight away, and engine sounds fine on choke, turn the choke off and it dies, open the throttle just a baaaaaa noise, but if I keep it over 4000 rpm it will rev without choke, one thing I didn't check is the float height could that be a issue?
I need I guess to pull the air box to see if I have a mouse living in there, the other thing maybe sucking in air?
anybody come across anything like this before? I have set the air/fuel screw 1 and half turns out. |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 11, 2017 18:37:36 GMT 1
Can only be one of 2 things
Pilots blocked or low speed windings on the stator.
Both my TSX and the nsr 250 I worked on were like that and it was the pilots
Steve
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Post by fozzy17 on May 11, 2017 18:50:51 GMT 1
Can only be one of 2 things Pilots blocked or low speed windings on the stator. Both my TSX and the nsr 250 I worked on were like that and it was the pilots Steve Ahh when I bought it, the mag cover was off, so new stator or get it rewound?
pilots are clean, blown out thrown in cleaner, then blown out with carb cleaner.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 11, 2017 19:05:16 GMT 1
I'd get a multi meter on it and see what the readings are like then go from there
Could still be an air leak that isn't causing as much of a problem when on the main jet
A multi meter and a leak test kit are your friends
Steve
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Post by shergar on Jun 2, 2020 19:26:46 GMT 1
Can only be one of 2 things Pilots blocked or low speed windings on the stator. Both my TSX and the nsr 250 I worked on were like that and it was the pilots Steve can you explain how you do the test on the windings steve ? |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 2, 2020 19:48:45 GMT 1
Can only be one of 2 things Pilots blocked or low speed windings on the stator. Both my TSX and the nsr 250 I worked on were like that and it was the pilots Steve can you explain how you do the test on the windings steve ? You need a multimeter to check the restance of the 2 sets of coils on the stator Values are in the Haynes manual Steve |
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Post by shergar on Jun 2, 2020 20:50:25 GMT 1
sorry i phrased that wrong i ment how you personally do it as in the correct wires / set meter at ect . i have done a test and im getting all correct but i have been told that you need the coils warmed up with a hair dryer and the engine warmed up to get correct readings have you come across this ?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 2, 2020 21:54:30 GMT 1
The readings in the manual will be for something like 20 deg C
Yes they alter with heat slightly
The hairdryer idea is to see if they break down or short out as they heat up
Steve
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Post by shergar on Jun 2, 2020 22:55:24 GMT 1
i also have a problem similar to fozzy here (hope its ok to butt in fozzy ) my lc250 is very hard to start and when it dose its on 1 cylinder then the other shoots in . it takes about 10/15 strong kicks then just starts but when both barrels are running it wont rev clean and also at 6k revs on the road it just stalls at that and wont go on even changing down . iv done carbs cleaning , filters on fuel lines just in case , changed to norbos banshee coils , took baffles out no blockage , swapped over cdi from a running bike , oil pump was revamped by arrow and new throttle cable as it seemed to smoke alot and i thought it was chocking itself so set up to arrows alignment as per instructions , all of this to no avail . last thing im told it can be is windings breaking down as i THINK it was mutts nutts said that he was having alot of lc250s with the same issue so i did the meter test but all readings are seemingly good , any other advice on something im missing please ? ta
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 3, 2020 9:00:53 GMT 1
Have you done anything to the carbs ie cleaned or non standard jetting?
Has it ever ran ok
Steve
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Post by shergar on Jun 3, 2020 9:34:14 GMT 1
iv just cleaned carbs nothing else , from the time i bought it its never been right
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 3, 2020 10:23:17 GMT 1
Did you take the balls and emulsion tubes out
Steve
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Post by shergar on Jun 3, 2020 12:00:16 GMT 1
defo not the balls , honest cant remember on tubes as its been a while and messing with other bikes its hard to keep track .
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 3, 2020 13:40:01 GMT 1
You need to take them out to check all is clear
Steve
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Post by shergar on Jun 3, 2020 15:20:17 GMT 1
i know of this but never did it before whats the procedure steve ?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 3, 2020 16:05:10 GMT 1
Emulsion tube is easy
Take out main jet, remove the washer and refit jet finger tight
Tap the main jet on the work bench and the emulsion tube will move up into the slide area
For the brass balls it's just a case of taking a 2mm or so drill and run it into the brass ball
I tend to use one of the push type centre punches first then get it started on a bench drill
Then I swap to a cordless drill and go slowly
The drill tend to grip at one point and the ball grips onto the drill and can be pulled out
Clean out the passage and jet behind it then fit a new 4.5mm brass ball
If in doubt contact mutts and he will sort it for you
Steve
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Post by shergar on Jun 3, 2020 21:23:08 GMT 1
sorry i ment the brass balls . so iv just taken the carbs apart and checked all jets and all clean but looking at the balls id say someone had them out at some stage as i can see a type of glue around them but something i noticed this time round that i missed before ie on the right carb looking at the back in hole on the left is open , brass ball , hole on the right is open yes ? well this one was full of crud or black sealer or something what affect could this have ? , other carb just around the brass ball with a magnifier glass you can see a tiny rim / groove / gap maybe letting air in make any difference you think ?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 3, 2020 21:51:29 GMT 1
If this is an LC the 00 carbs had a mod I'm sure
Speak to mutts
Steve
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Post by shergar on Jun 3, 2020 22:45:23 GMT 1
ye 4L1-00 .
would you have a list of correct numbers for jets ect
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 4, 2020 8:58:46 GMT 1
4l1 carbs weren't modded so you are fine Carb specs will be on www.rd350lc.net site Steve |
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Post by shergar on Jun 4, 2020 10:16:34 GMT 1
i see it says needle clip should be on the 4th notch is that from top to down or bottom up i see mine is on the 3rd top down ?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 4, 2020 13:32:05 GMT 1
i see it says needle clip should be on the 4th notch is that from top to down or bottom up i see mine is on the 3rd top down ? Can't remember, having a senior moment Think my brain must be full Been running network cabling through the house I learned something new so obviously something had to get deleted 🤣 Steve |
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Post by shergar on Jun 4, 2020 13:34:28 GMT 1
o ye i know what you mean trying to keep all knowledge in at this age just dont work mate .
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Post by muttsnuts on Jun 4, 2020 13:45:09 GMT 1
if 250 carbs, check what main jet is fitted, I've had to "down" jet, yes that's correct "down" jet quiet a few recently, not sure why, but those fitted with 190 mains where running horribly, some ended up at 180 and some at 170 mains, still think your windings or the pickup could be on their way, but check the main jet sizes as well
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Post by shergar on Jun 4, 2020 15:40:27 GMT 1
and the clip position dave ?
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