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Post by neo on Mar 11, 2015 8:24:09 GMT 1
I also have fitted a new cable (not genuine) I rebuilt my clutch a few years ago, all new parts inc actuator, pushrod & pattern cable but couldnt adjust for a smooth easy lever. After faffing about for far too long I swapped the cable for a new genuine Yamaha cable, problem solved  OEB I have heard this to I may revert back to the old cable and see if I can add that ominous bearing somewhere :eek: |
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Post by stusco on Mar 11, 2015 8:49:06 GMT 1
I can only see a ball at the basket end none at the worm end
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Post by Delbert on Mar 11, 2015 9:01:57 GMT 1
I'm sure there is a bearing in the end of the worm that the pushrod will rest on ,, probably part of the worm & not shown seperate , they do fall out
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Post by arrow on Mar 11, 2015 9:49:32 GMT 1
The small black one you have left over. That could be the ball from the kick start lever.
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Post by Norbo on Mar 11, 2015 10:42:31 GMT 1
Personally I always fit 3 HD and 3 TZ springs to my bikes the clutch is heavy but I don't get any clutch . Because of the way LC clutches work they do tend to be a lot heavier then YPVS ones . I think on a standard engine 6 HD are ok . but if you want a light clutch then standard ones could be the same to go . I prefer to have it heavy and not slip The one on the fury bike needed 2 hands to pull it in when first fitted way to heavy even for me but they do lighten up over use.
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Post by neo on Mar 11, 2015 18:51:37 GMT 1
Just drained all fluids and flushed out the rad and engine with the hose
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Post by neo on Mar 11, 2015 18:54:51 GMT 1
All the fluids looked ok, no contaminated oil with antifreeze and visa versa, set air screws to 1.5 turns out (were 1.25) checking timing requires a special tool so will leave that for the moment. Once the clutch springs come I'll rebuild again and ride to monitor temp.. Nb it's only fast run when temp creeps up... Local slow stuff it seems OK. Is there any way way to check the water pump?
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Post by farmboy on Mar 11, 2015 19:42:48 GMT 1
When I rebuilt my bike I got all bullish wanting to have H/D springs in the clutch .
First put 6 in , almost broke the side casing trying to pull the clutch lever in , you could see the side casing flexing , the clutch wouldn't clear .
Tried 3 H/D and 3 old springs better but still very heavy and no real feel.
In the end ordered 6 new gen Yam 4lo springs , new ball ,already had new rod from Norbo and a new actuator cam , works super smooth and light, it will grip and pick up the front wheel before any clutch slip now.
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Post by arrow on Mar 11, 2015 20:28:37 GMT 1
All the fluids looked ok, no contaminated oil with antifreeze and visa versa, set air screws to 1.5 turns out (were 1.25) checking timing requires a special tool so will leave that for the moment. Once the clutch springs come I'll rebuild again and ride to monitor temp.. Nb it's only fast run when temp creeps up... Local slow stuff it seems OK. Is there any way way to check the water pump? All engines vary slightly, but my lc ran best with the air screws just one turn out. And don't be afraid to fine tune them. The engine could be better balanced with one say 1 1/8 turns out while the other is still one turn out for example. |
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Post by neo on Mar 11, 2015 20:42:50 GMT 1
All the fluids looked ok, no contaminated oil with antifreeze and visa versa, set air screws to 1.5 turns out (were 1.25) checking timing requires a special tool so will leave that for the moment. Once the clutch springs come I'll rebuild again and ride to monitor temp.. Nb it's only fast run when temp creeps up... Local slow stuff it seems OK. Is there any way way to check the water pump? All engines vary slightly, but my lc ran best with the air screws just one turn out. And don't be afraid to fine tune them. The engine could be better balanced with one say 1 1/8 turns out while the other is still one turn out for example. Interesting do you fine tune them by listening |
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Post by neo on Mar 11, 2015 20:43:51 GMT 1
When I rebuilt my bike I got all bullish wanting to have H/D springs in the clutch . First put 6 in , almost broke the side casing trying to pull the clutch lever in , you could see the side casing flexing , the clutch wouldn't clear . Tried 3 H/D and 3 old springs better but still very heavy and no real feel. In the end ordered 6 new gen Yam 4lo springs , new ball ,already had new rod from Norbo and a new actuator cam , works super smooth and light, it will grip and pick up the front wheel before any clutch slip now. My cases were flexing like rubber man definitely not right! I'm confident this will fix it |
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Post by arrow on Mar 11, 2015 22:56:08 GMT 1
All engines vary slightly, but my lc ran best with the air screws just one turn out. And don't be afraid to fine tune them. The engine could be better balanced with one say 1 1/8 turns out while the other is still one turn out for example. Interesting do you fine tune them by listening Yes mate. Listening, feeling for equal pressure and watching the pulse of the smoke. Takes a little practice, but been doing it for years now. |
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Post by neo on Mar 11, 2015 23:39:48 GMT 1
Interesting do you fine tune them by listening Yes mate. Listening, feeling for equal pressure and watching the pulse of the smoke. Takes a little practice, but been doing it for years now. Your into it arrow! I am a mere pad wan, if I were up your way I'd pop it round and bring the doughnuts but alas I'm about as far south as you can get  ?. I'm awaiting the springs for the clutch then I'll get it all set up hopefully and try to make sure there's no air locks in it when it refilled. Still uncertain what's causing the getting hot issue at 60-70 right now but all the fluids are ok and not contaminated so I can only presume the head gasket is ok now |
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Post by arrow on Mar 11, 2015 23:50:00 GMT 1
Do the mating faces of heads and barrels look spot on?
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Post by neo on Mar 11, 2015 23:59:47 GMT 1
Do the mating faces of heads and barrels look spot on? The heads are still on they looked good pre assembly I also used gen gaskets and a little and I mean little smear of three bond 1215 sealer the compression test results were also in spec and equal |
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?. I'm awaiting the springs for the clutch then I'll get it all set up hopefully and try to make sure there's no air locks in it when it refilled. Still uncertain what's causing the getting hot issue at 60-70 right now but all the fluids are ok and not contaminated so I can only presume the head gasket is ok now