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Post by neo on Mar 10, 2015 16:27:32 GMT 1
Good news bike runs ok but effing hot.. To be precise the last digit before the red!!! Got in slowly released the rad cap and it hissed and gurgled, same amount of water in it and no smell of petrol  ? Now bad news New clutch is dragging, I bought original friction plated from norbo and hd springs, I could not operate the clutch with all hd springs and it seemed to drag with 3 so I put in x2 opposite but it drags and its a bitch to find neutral... I thinking revert back to a set of new standard springs... As for the temp, it gets hotter the faster is goes ticking along it seems ok do you think air lock? Or does all yours run very hot? Any suggestions? Re clutch and advice before I strip again ?? grrrr I sopose all the coolant has to come out again to what a sod Thanks in advance |
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Post by bare on Mar 10, 2015 16:44:21 GMT 1
Clutch: Fit Oem springs Light clutch feel was one of the best parts of these bikes
GL4 gear oil (any brand) Is a V good trans oil choice, allowing for easy/reliable selection of neutral
Heat: You have a genuine problem
These do not 'normally' run hot. Check: water /airlocks.. Ignition timings... Fuel mixture (too lean = hot)
Too tight engine clearances ??
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Post by kostas on Mar 10, 2015 17:29:24 GMT 1
If the water smells like petrol your head gasket might not be sealing prorerly.
How was you basket with regards to wear at the friction plates slots??
They drag if they are worn
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Post by neo on Mar 10, 2015 18:34:15 GMT 1
It idles fine it runs sweet the plugs are ok the water does not smell of petrol like it used before the head gasket went. The temperature creeps up if I stick at a steady 60 ish say
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Post by arrow on Mar 10, 2015 18:46:28 GMT 1
Does it feel very hot to the touch, or could the gauge be faulty?
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Post by neo on Mar 10, 2015 19:30:24 GMT 1
Does it feel very hot to the touch, or could the gauge be faulty? It's hot to touch alright, gutted the clutch is dragging to fluids out again boo boo |
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Post by neo on Mar 10, 2015 19:42:47 GMT 1
I wonder if there's a way to check the sender and the gauge? It does seem odd that slow speed and tick over its ok get it on a run and it creeps up, just ordered new standard springs and another side cover gasket. Please don't say I need to remove the oil pump or pipes, I surely can swing the casing out the way and keep it supported so no tugging on the oil feed pipes
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Post by arrow on Mar 10, 2015 19:48:49 GMT 1
The oil pump can stay on but it might be easier to disconnect the pipes at the carb end. When you refit the case have the bike in top gear, inch the back wheel back and to to engage the white oil pump drive gear.
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Post by neo on Mar 10, 2015 19:53:43 GMT 1
The oil pump can stay on but it might be easier to disconnect the pipes at the carb end. When you refit the case have the bike in top gear, inch the back wheel back and to to engage the white oil pump drive gear. Thanks arrow, I'll have to do my best without a centre stand, clutch first then it will make it easier to ride then I can sort heating problem. It could be the water not circulating enough around the engine when ridden faster may be best to see if I can flush it with some sort of solution |
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Post by JDH on Mar 10, 2015 20:26:27 GMT 1
just ordered new standard springs and another side cover gasket. Hi Neo, where did you order the clutch springs from? |
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Post by neo on Mar 10, 2015 20:51:01 GMT 1
just ordered new standard springs and another side cover gasket. Hi Neo, where did you order the clutch springs from? Hi there, norbo but there way way to much for my bike the assembly couldn't move the clutch! I also have fitted a new cable (not genuine) |
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Post by JDH on Mar 10, 2015 21:09:42 GMT 1
Hi Neo, where did you order the clutch springs from? Hi there, norbo but there way way to much for my bike the assembly couldn't move the clutch! I also have fitted a new cable (not genuine) Yeah I have got a set of heavy duty ones from Norbo, ready to be fitted, I am now worried they are too stiff. Did you order standard ones. I can't find any on the internet, only HD or TZR ones. The ones I have took out my engine I am rebuilding are on there limit. |
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Post by looey on Mar 10, 2015 21:16:34 GMT 1
I recently bought 3x H/D and 3x TZ from Norbo and ended up fitting 3x H/D and 3x original OEM springs that were well within their service limit. Fitting 6x H/D will be WAY too much and for me the TZ spings were too long  Like OEB says, standard are probably the way to go unless you're making big power ?. |
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Post by neo on Mar 10, 2015 21:32:29 GMT 1
Hi there, norbo but there way way to much for my bike the assembly couldn't move the clutch! I also have fitted a new cable (not genuine) Yeah I have got a set of heavy duty ones from Norbo, ready to be fitted, I am now worried they are too stiff. Did you order standard ones. I can't find any on the internet, only HD or TZR ones. The ones I have took out my engine I am rebuilding are on there limit. Ordered genuine yam ones and got to strip off the sidecase and drain fluid and oil again kinda soul destroying plus I got the running hot problem... I'll get there... Like British rail eventually... |
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Post by wolfboy1 on Mar 10, 2015 21:35:29 GMT 1
temp fault - thermostat opens ok ? ( get it out and boil a kettle to check opening )
rad blocked ( feel for cold spots on rad by touch )
water pump ?
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Post by looey on Mar 10, 2015 21:54:31 GMT 1
rdered genuine yam ones and got to strip off the sidecase and drain fluid and oil again kinda soul destroying plus I got the running hot problem... I'll get there... Like British rail eventually... I know how you feel man. Spent all day yesterday fitting my freshly rebuilt YPVS engine. Had it ready to fire up, only to remember that I'd forgotten to set the clutch free play on the clutch drum centre . So got up today, gearbox oil back out and then everything that removing and refitting the r/h casing envolves. On a positive note, I actually rode it this afternoon for the first time since October last year  |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2015 22:01:48 GMT 1
And is it finally ok Looey?
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Post by looey on Mar 10, 2015 22:04:00 GMT 1
Yeah man, started 3rd kick and sounds nice  Got to get some miles on it, but so far, so good  |
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Post by arrow on Mar 10, 2015 22:24:58 GMT 1
temp fault - thermostat opens ok ? ( get it out and boil a kettle to check opening ) rad blocked ( feel for cold spots on rad by touch ) water pump ? Its a 4LO, so no stat. |
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Post by wolfboy1 on Mar 10, 2015 23:01:53 GMT 1
temp fault - thermostat opens ok ? ( get it out and boil a kettle to check opening ) rad blocked ( feel for cold spots on rad by touch ) water pump ? Its a 4LO, so no stat. didn't know that ! |
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Post by neo on Mar 10, 2015 23:08:39 GMT 1
Yeah man, started 3rd kick and sounds nice Got to get some miles on it, but so far, so good Cheers man you enspiring me |
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Post by neo on Mar 10, 2015 23:10:57 GMT 1
temp fault - thermostat opens ok ? ( get it out and boil a kettle to check opening ) rad blocked ( feel for cold spots on rad by touch ) water pump ? Its a 4LO, so no stat. Correct, no stat although I may adopt that method with the temperature sender out the head in a slowly increasing cup of water temperature wise and monitor the reading on the dash |
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Post by neo on Mar 10, 2015 23:13:14 GMT 1
temp fault - thermostat opens ok ? ( get it out and boil a kettle to check opening ) rad blocked ( feel for cold spots on rad by touch ) water pump ? Will flush through with hose when I empty it AGAIN! Apparently coleman camping fluid cleans Ali like nothing else but clutchy poos first |
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Post by neo on Mar 10, 2015 23:30:34 GMT 1
rdered genuine yam ones and got to strip off the sidecase and drain fluid and oil again kinda soul destroying plus I got the running hot problem... I'll get there... Like British rail eventually... I know how you feel man. Spent all day yesterday fitting my freshly rebuilt YPVS engine. Had it ready to fire up, only to remember that I'd forgotten to set the clutch free play on the clutch drum centre . So got up today, gearbox oil back out and then everything that removing and refitting the r/h casing envolves. On a positive note, I actually rode it this afternoon for the first time since October last year Clutch free play have I missed something? Or is it different on the lc |
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Post by looey on Mar 10, 2015 23:35:50 GMT 1
Yeah it's different on an LC |
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Post by neo on Mar 10, 2015 23:37:36 GMT 1
Yeah it's different on an LC Phew cheers looey |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2015 23:39:05 GMT 1
temp fault - thermostat opens ok ? ( get it out and boil a kettle to check opening ) rad blocked ( feel for cold spots on rad by touch ) water pump ? Its a 4LO, so no stat. My 4l0 has a stat  |
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Post by Delbert on Mar 11, 2015 8:00:33 GMT 1
Assuming you have the clutch adjusted correctly from the actuator on the left hand side and both ball bearings are in place , I would be tempted to give it a few miles ( once the over heating is sorted ) as it may bed in and settle down
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Post by neo on Mar 11, 2015 8:14:41 GMT 1
Assuming you have the clutch adjusted correctly from the actuator on the left hand side and both ball bearings are in place , I would be tempted to give it a few miles ( once the over heating is sorted ) as it may bed in and settle down The one on inside the clutch drum is defiantly in the worm side I am pretty sure although.... I do have a much smaller black ball bearing left over... I am sure there was one on the worm side to but will double check.. Is the one on the worm side considerably smaller? I could not see it on the parts book on the microfiche |
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Post by oldelsieboy on Mar 11, 2015 8:20:56 GMT 1
Hi Neo, where did you order the clutch springs from? I also have fitted a new cable (not genuine) I rebuilt my clutch a few years ago, all new parts inc actuator, pushrod & pattern cable but couldnt adjust for a smooth easy lever. After faffing about for far too long I swapped the cable for a new genuine Yamaha cable, problem solved OEB |
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