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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 21, 2013 21:37:02 GMT 1
Had the DT for about 5 months now and nothing has done my head in more. Got to the stage of thinking of breaking it. non registered import which is now reg'd and all legal but can't get it to run right. rough as a badgers and seems very rich. sometimes starts and runs perfect till you try and ride it then goes all spluttery and won't rev. Sometimes splutters from the off. So far have done the following: NOS stator Replacement CDI Engine stripped and rebuilt with new mains and genuine seals New rings ( piston and bore perfect ) Replaced suspect brown 2 stroke oil. Decoked exhaust Had replaced the CDI and complete stator plate before removing the motor and main seals were well past their best. Put engine in last night and started it and was still rough. It was tipping it down so waited till tonight to try again, started and ran clean idling now at 4k ( had to turn up as it struggled to idle at 1.5k last night. Pulled away and did not want to rev but if you got it to 6k it was a bit better. Lasted 1/2 a mole before cutting out like the ignition was switched off and had to push it back. Took plug out and it seems to be sparking but won't start and exhaust smells of petrol. Any ideas?  Are they fussy over float height? Steve |
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Post by kevsypvs on Aug 21, 2013 21:54:13 GMT 1
its not a faulty kill switch is it mate try disconnecting it
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Post by kevsypvs on Aug 21, 2013 21:57:34 GMT 1
but sounds more like carb problems totally strip it and clean out the jets
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Post by muttsnuts on Aug 21, 2013 22:00:23 GMT 1
had an rd125LC do the same thing, turned out to be the wrong carb fitted to the bike for the engine, it was a right pain to figure out, I fitted a 250LC carb in the end just prove or disporove it, and it was loads better, som then spent ages finding the right carb for the engine !
I also had another 125LC that would sometimes run and then not, that turned out to be the coil, fitted a banshee coil and that fixed it - but when it did run it was fine until the coil got hot and then it just died and wouldn't start again until it had cooled down
HTH
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 23, 2013 13:48:13 GMT 1
some things to check:
Are there any air leeks especially at the reed block area, air box tube to back of carb.
check to see if the reed block has its reeds siting flush to the block and are centralised so there's no gaps for fuel mixture to get back to carb or excessive mixture into head i.e. flooding.
as already said check carb, is it the right model for bike, float height, main jet size, is there an air jet in? etc......
check coil and the wire to the spark plug cap, is it damaged and check plug cap is it shortening against head no creating a big enough spark.
I have the dt125lc fiche to check part numbers if you require it (pm me your email and I'll send the mk1 and mk3 for comparison euro part numbers vary lol.
hope you get it fixed dude don't break it there a rare breed....
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Post by mikeley on Aug 23, 2013 16:24:25 GMT 1
I had a similar problem years ago with a Suzuki ts125r. Turned out to be a blocked air filter. Worth checking?
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Post by mellow on Aug 23, 2013 16:47:52 GMT 1
Is Ur Back Wheel Nice N Shiny? If So Il Buy Wheel Off U :-)
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Post by museumman on Aug 26, 2013 11:21:22 GMT 1
Try and borrow an aftermarket expansion chamber? Me, Mellow and another member on other forums all had problems with the RD ypvs pipes, which are 1.5 KG heavier (without baffle) than the MK1 and are very difficult to decoke. Unless you're certain it's clean and not falling apart inside? Re: CDi problems (weak point on the RD ypvs) The guy in this article talks about an expert who reckons many of the factory specs are wrong, would love to get him working on the MK3s www.dansmc.com/cdiignition.htm |
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Post by flames on Aug 26, 2013 20:43:39 GMT 1
have you checked wiring loom at all?
I had a similar prob on a vt500,sometimes it would idle a treat and rev cleanly,but would die as soon as I put it under load,another time it would misfire like a bastit on idle and in neutral,and at low revs under load,then would hit 5/6k,spit and take off like a rat up a drainpipe.i changed the cdi twice,coils,leads,plugs,filters the lot.turned out to be a corroded wire.it wasn't broke,but when I wiggled the wire,it was sometimes causing a misfire,and sometimes it just caused a weak spark.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 30, 2013 9:27:10 GMT 1
Hi guys,
Thanks for the replies.
Carb has been cleaned and bike ran rough but it still ran. Occasionally it would run perfect till you tried to pull away then it would go back to rough. It will now not run at all, as said it was running (rough) then stopped as if someone had switched it off which had happened before with the old stator and cdi but would start again after a while.
I will recheck the carb but have got another coil on the way (cheers billbot) to try as well as it is the only electrical thing left original.
Strange thing is I gave it a quick check to see if it was sparking and lay a non resistor plug against the head and it would not spark but if I used a resistor plug it sparks which may indicate something failing on higher loads.
I have looked at the loom, everything else works other than the temp gauge flickering when you turn the steering but all else looks to be in good condition. Looked at the wiring diagram and the cdi is powered and signaled from the stator which only leaves the black and black white going to the kill switch ( disconnected and made no difference ) and the red/black which is earthed at the ignition switch to stop it running and again I have disconnected it which made no difference so can rule out the loom.
Other thing which tips me against the carb ( unless a jet has fallen out ) is that even when running rough it started very easily, first kick every time so fueling at that point was near perfect.
Will see if the coil helps, think I have spent 50% more than the bike is worth as was originally going to totally rebuild and keep it.
So far have bought the following:
New master cylinder
New Venhill brake line
NOS tacho
5K mph speedo ( would really have like 16k if anybody has one)
New clock rubber dampers
New front exhaust to frame bracket
NOS RH side panel
Seat refurbished (roger dennis)
Used PV controller (was missing)
Used PV servo (was missing)
Used CDI
NOS Stator
Used Voltage regulator (was missing)
New lower suspension bushes, seals and sleeve ( ouch )
Engine stripped and rebuilt with new mains and all seals and rings
Exhaust de coked, chemically stripped and re finished
New battery
NOS Rad shroud
New front mudguard
Mot'd and taxed and registered in the UK ( really pisses me off as it is fully legal and I can't ride the feckin thing)
And probably a dozen other things that I have forgot. Now you might get why I am so hacked off with it now as reckon including buying it ( which was a lesson on not buying blind and getting a courier to deliver as was sold as a runner ) I am down £1500 without a strip and rebuild.
Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 30, 2013 9:28:50 GMT 1
Is Ur Back Wheel Nice N Shiny? If So Il Buy Wheel Off U :-) it may be an option but can't promise it won't have fire damage by the end of next week Steve |
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Post by muttsnuts on Aug 30, 2013 9:46:47 GMT 1
just had a TDR 125 in this week, same systems as yours, that turned out to be the catalytic convertor had collapsed inside the exhaust, suspect yours is too old to have one of them, but basically that fault was the exhaust being blocked up by the cat !
doubt that will help, but worth a check on your exhaust system, has it been decoked at all do you know ?
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Post by billbott on Aug 30, 2013 10:55:55 GMT 1
Coils on its way up to you. I put a pack of swan vestas in too, just in case.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 30, 2013 11:00:26 GMT 1
just had a TDR 125 in this week, same systems as yours, that turned out to be the catalytic convertor had collapsed inside the exhaust, suspect yours is too old to have one of them, but basically that fault was the exhaust being blocked up by the cat ! doubt that will help, but worth a check on your exhaust system, has it been decoked at all do you know ? no cat so not that. de coked it myself, filled with industrial oven cleaner and left 24 hours, rinsed out then went over with a blow torch. amazing what came out. then when first started had to put a bucket over the tail pipe exit to catch all the carbon powder blowing out. you can smell the fuel from the tailpipe so think it is clear also drilled out the restrictor in the end of the front pipe if the coil and a carb check over don't solve it i will take the front pipe off and see if it starts it does not even try to start, not even a misfire steve |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 30, 2013 11:02:18 GMT 1
Coils on its way up to you. I put a pack of swan vestas in too, just in case. cheers bill, may need those matches how much do you reckon breaking it would make steve |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 30, 2013 11:07:51 GMT 1
some things to check: Are there any air leeks especially at the reed block area, air box tube to back of carb. check to see if the reed block has its reeds siting flush to the block and are centralised so there's no gaps for fuel mixture to get back to carb or excessive mixture into head i.e. flooding. as already said check carb, is it the right model for bike, float height, main jet size, is there an air jet in? etc...... check coil and the wire to the spark plug cap, is it damaged and check plug cap is it shortening against head no creating a big enough spark. I have the dt125lc fiche to check part numbers if you require it (pm me your email and I'll send the mk1 and mk3 for comparison euro part numbers vary lol. hope you get it fixed dude don't break it there a rare breed.... pretty sure it is the right carb, bike very original, just some bits removed. was covered in oil and had been stored a long time going to strip the carb again any way and check everything again thanks for the parts list but i already have an import one for the mk3 which is almost identical steve |
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Post by billbott on Aug 30, 2013 11:23:49 GMT 1
Coils on its way up to you. I put a pack of swan vestas in too, just in case. cheers bill, may need those matches how much do you reckon breaking it would make steve I know someone who needs a rear wheel...... It seems a pity to break it, but i know how frustrating it can be. |
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Post by mellow on Aug 30, 2013 15:11:30 GMT 1
I know someone who needs a rear wheel...... It seems a pity to break it, but i know how frustrating it can be. "MAY" need. Took it to wheel place today. Waiting on genuine center spacer before he does the wheel. I will keep you posted bill coz i know you like my updates  |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Sept 2, 2013 15:27:52 GMT 1
Well I have put the bonfire on hold for now.
Got a coil from billbott and fitted it this morning, bike now starts but still rough. Turn fuel tap off and within 10 secs runs crisp and clean, turn fuel back on and within a few seconds its running rough.
Guess the float height is way out then, will adjust tonight and see.
Steve
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Post by Nismosis on Sept 2, 2013 16:02:16 GMT 1
Sounds like the float height is not correctly adjusted or most probably the float needle is not seating in the valve, either it could be worn or a bit of crap stuck around the valve seat. Basically the carb is just flooding. Saying that though... When left with the petrol tap open (engine off) does fuel piss out the overflow pipe of the carb?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Sept 2, 2013 16:10:20 GMT 1
Sounds like the float height is not correctly adjusted or most probably the float needle is not seating in the valve, either it could be worn or a bit of crap stuck around the valve seat. Basically the carb is just flooding. Saying that though... When left with the petrol tap open (engine off) does fuel piss out the overflow pipe of the carb? No it doesn't overflow hence me thinking it's the height Steve |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Sept 2, 2013 20:05:58 GMT 1
Well dropped the float and it runs near perfect
Think I have went too far the other way as will only idle at 2.5k, any less and it dies which it didn't do with the fuel switched off before.
Happy days
Steve
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