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Post by spondonchris on May 23, 2013 15:17:04 GMT 1
any tips on locking flywheel on a complete motor to swap it please
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Post by winnerevo1 on May 23, 2013 15:32:57 GMT 1
If you have the clutch cover off then a 2p coin (or any bit of copper) between the primary gears. If you don't have access to the clutch then pop it in gear, take up the backlash then hold the rear brake on hard.
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Post by spondonchris on May 23, 2013 16:09:06 GMT 1
i tried that to start with , no joy, looks like a buzz gun job
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Post by bare on May 23, 2013 16:20:50 GMT 1
Always, it's Far easier on the crank
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Post by ianr4863 on May 23, 2013 17:09:02 GMT 1
Daft question but you have removed all the washers ? Sometimes one hides in there .
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Post by butchers on May 23, 2013 17:15:37 GMT 1
I use one of norbos flywheel removing tools with the use of a impact gun.
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Post by nikfubar on May 23, 2013 17:29:11 GMT 1
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Post by bryan on May 23, 2013 17:43:07 GMT 1
if the barrel is off, put a bar through the small end resting on 2 hammer handles on the gasket face either side of the rod. There is a u shaped tol you can buy or make from steel plate that you put on the rod then rests on the gasket face to lock engine, slot needs to be wide enough to slide on the rod under the small end.
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db8888
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 329
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Post by db8888 on May 23, 2013 21:38:22 GMT 1
use a flywheel holder undo the nut. use the correct puller remove fly wheel .use fly wheel holder to re torque nut . don't use impact gun the crank is pressed together . don't hold crank by the rod end this can damage the small end . don't stick a two pence between the primary gears as this will put load on the main bearing and gears .not good advise sorry to say............
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Post by bryan on May 24, 2013 1:07:21 GMT 1
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paulo
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 406
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Post by paulo on May 24, 2013 3:17:37 GMT 1
Doesn't the Haynes manual not show you how to make a flywheel holder - sure it does, as I knocked up a home made one out of 2 lengths of 25mm flat steel bolted together like a large pair of scissors and a 8mm bolt in each end that locate into the x2 holes in the outer face of the flywheel - this allows you to hold it securely while undoing the nut !.
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Post by Denzil on May 24, 2013 21:47:34 GMT 1
Paulo plus 1, spot on. This is what I did.
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Post by majortom on May 25, 2013 6:31:13 GMT 1
Big pair of grips on the fly wheel and a long breaker bar, i agree dont use an impact gun, there are lots of very old colis inside and you dont want to damage them, proper fly wheel puller. And watch the woodruf key when putting it back on, they can ride out of the slot and damage the flywheel
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Post by jon on May 27, 2013 20:37:51 GMT 1
It is always best to hold the flywheel directly, when undoing/doing it up. Why put undue strain on the rest of the engine, and risk breaking it? Chances are you won't ... but do you want to take the risk? I have made a tool specifically for holding and LC flywheel (and a different one for a YPVS). Guess most people won't go to such lengths ... but here's my LC one (you don't mention LC or YPVS?).  P.S. I made a 17 tooth front sprocket holder on the reverse side. |
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Post by muttsnuts on May 27, 2013 20:55:03 GMT 1
It is always best to hold the flywheel directly, when undoing/doing it up. Why put undue strain on the rest of the engine, and risk breaking it? Chances are you won't ... but do you want to take the risk? I have made a tool specifically for holding and LC flywheel (and a different one for a YPVS). Guess most people won't go to such lengths ... but here's my LC one (you don't mention LC or YPVS?). P.S. I made a 17 tooth front sprocket holder on the reverse side. simple but affective I am sure, I like it !! |
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the two pins in the arms locate into holes in the flywheel.
