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Post by masonmart on Apr 28, 2024 20:39:46 GMT 1
During the build of my bike I've had to manage damage to bike wiring, a non-standard loom and wiring in an Ignitech unit and I'd ended up with a mess of wiring around the headstock and headlight. I was fitting up the headlight and realised that a lot of this mess had to get from the general area of mess and into the back of the headlight to tidy it up and fit the headlight right. I think this is best thought of from the minute yo start the wiring and it really helps if you have a scooby about what will happen. Anyways, I've spent all day tidying this area up and as always learned a lot. I got the correct gauge and handpump and rechecked the 5 psig air to the forks. How do people manage if they don't have something very low flow and calibrated to measure very low pressures?
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Post by geoffers997 on Apr 29, 2024 14:35:41 GMT 1
Bicycle pump, a separate pressure gauge and a bit of trial and error.
That said I’m pretty sure the air leaks out fairly quickly. Ive not put any air in the forks recently and can’t say I’ve really noticed a difference.
Biggest difference was when I put fresh oil in.
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Post by masonmart on Apr 29, 2024 19:10:19 GMT 1
Geoffers, I believe that the air pressure is to stop the fork oil from foaming (boiling) when the bike is ridden at very hard speeds. I seriously doubt that anybody on UK roads could make it happen so I'm not worried about it but it says in the manual to do it and I never break the rules.
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Post by abar121 on Apr 29, 2024 19:50:43 GMT 1
The forks on my F1 were too soft with too much sag without any pressure. Topping them up and they are fine. Or just use 2p coins and do without the air
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Post by tippy on Apr 29, 2024 20:33:03 GMT 1
The forks on my F1 were too soft with too much sag without any pressure. Topping them up and they are fine. Or just use 2p coins and do without the air 4 pence? Do you realise how much that is worth in Yorkshire?
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Post by abar121 on Apr 29, 2024 20:36:47 GMT 1
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 29, 2024 20:38:33 GMT 1
The forks on my F1 were too soft with too much sag without any pressure. Topping them up and they are fine. Or just use 2p coins and do without the air 4 pence? Do you realise how much that is worth in Yorkshire? Don't mean to induce terror but it's 4 coins each side 😱 Steve
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Post by tippy on Apr 29, 2024 20:42:34 GMT 1
4 pence? Do you realise how much that is worth in Yorkshire? Don't mean to induce terror but it's 4 coins each side 😱 Steve Oh jesus!
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Post by geoffers997 on Apr 29, 2024 21:01:06 GMT 1
The science here fascinates me:; going way back to half remembered physics lessons a liquids boiling point increases with pressure.
As a rough illustration, the boiling point of water increases by 7-8 degrees when air pressure increases by 5psi or 1/3 of an atmosphere.
Motor oils boil at higher temperatures than water
How does this relate to the question in hand?
Two things:
1. Increasing pressure will indeed stop your fork oil boiling. Just how hard you have to ride to achieve this is another point though
2. The Yamaha marketing machine score twice - firstly for spinning a technical solution for an essentially true (but unlikely) scenario and secondly air assisted forks were leading edge technology back then. Just the thing to turn our young and impressionable heads
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 29, 2024 21:22:08 GMT 1
And I thought the air was just like a preload adjustment 🤔
Steve
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Post by oldbritguy on Apr 29, 2024 21:55:00 GMT 1
Fitted a new headlight reflector and glass to replace the euro one. Managed to lose the fitting screws while I was at it. 😖
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Post by darboots on Apr 30, 2024 10:26:54 GMT 1
Had a bit of a garage re-organisation over the weekend....
The LC2 is now by the garage door, having been replaced on the ramp by a fat arsed late eighties diesel bike in a very sad condition - Kawasaki ZX-10 Tomcat.
Got two weeks off work from Friday, so gonna work on the ZX-10 in between bits on the LC2 - LC2 remains the focus.
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Post by tippy on Apr 30, 2024 15:57:51 GMT 1
Took mine for MOT, Pissed it!! Hurrah.
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Post by copper99 on Apr 30, 2024 16:21:15 GMT 1
Rode it back to back with the H2 which was the first time i've done so, neither is anymore "fun" than the other , both provide a different way to scratch an itch...one is considerably less knackering than the other mind . I'll be heading out to a meet this evening on the LC thou, perfect evening for it.
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Post by masonmart on Apr 30, 2024 17:35:18 GMT 1
Sorry, the point I made about it being to stop foaming was incorrect. I got it from the mouth of a horse that I trusted. It is credible but it isn't the reason. Some say that it varies the damping but that isn't true, it can only be the effective spring rate.
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Post by fletche36 on May 6, 2024 15:27:42 GMT 1
rivi barn 6_5_24 by peter fletcher, on Flickr lovely little ride out and ended up having a few issues. firstly, the pipes werent sealed too well as i didnt use any sealer last time i refitted them, also i ran with the belly pan again and this time it was rubbing on the pipes which its never done before. Anyway i have removed the pan, removed / sealed/ refitted the pipes so thats sorted. Then the rev counter started playing silly beggars, now it did this after i did a few full lock maneuvers so im guessing its something simple, well im hoping so, and finally i have developed a hanging idle which is no doubt because i talked about never doing / needing to do a leak down test! i talked that one in !!! Reedblocks and inlets are going to get some sealant when i can muster the enthusiasm to go out again. Still it was a great little ride over to Rivvi barn and the sun was out for once.
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Post by geoffers997 on May 7, 2024 16:30:56 GMT 1
rivi barn 6_5_24 by peter fletcher, on Flickr lovely little ride out and ended up having a few issues. firstly, the pipes werent sealed too well as i didnt use any sealer last time i refitted them, also i ran with the belly pan again and this time it was rubbing on the pipes which its never done before. Anyway i have removed the pan, removed / sealed/ refitted the pipes so thats sorted. Then the rev counter started playing silly beggars, now it did this after i did a few full lock maneuvers so im guessing its something simple, well im hoping so, and finally i have developed a hanging idle which is no doubt because i talked about never doing / needing to do a leak down test! i talked that one in !!! Reedblocks and inlets are going to get some sealant when i can muster the enthusiasm to go out again. Still it was a great little ride over to Rivvi barn and the sun was out for once. Lovely looking bike all the same 👍
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Post by fletche36 on May 7, 2024 16:50:49 GMT 1
OK. today i sorted the hanging idle by re doing the reed blocks but i have come across an issue with the rev counter. its very slow responding to revs up to about 5k but after that seems to "pick up" as normal. is this something i can fix myself or shall i send it away to one of the forum clock specialists? The cable is ok and its spinning like a good un when its not in the clock so im guessing i can discount that. I have also just bought some angled carb tops and new jets for a set of pwk 28s that im going to fit and i think im going to go down the route of nobbing off the air box and using some foam ram airs. i understand that the airbox is probably the best for outright performance but its just something that i quite like and was always something i did as a youth. Standby for a post about how im struggling to remove the box!!!!!
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Post by shaunthe2nd on May 7, 2024 17:13:10 GMT 1
OK. today i sorted the hanging idle by re doing the reed blocks but i have come across an issue with the rev counter. its very slow responding to revs up to about 5k but after that seems to "pick up" as normal. is this something i can fix myself or shall i send it away to one of the forum clock specialists? The cable is ok and its spinning like a good un when its not in the clock so im guessing i can discount that. I have also just bought some angled carb tops and new jets for a set of pwk 28s that im going to fit and i think im going to go down the route of nobbing off the air box and using some foam ram airs. i understand that the airbox is probably the best for outright performance but its just something that i quite like and was always something i did as a youth. Standby for a post about how im struggling to remove the box!!!!! Most likely fluid from the internal damper has leaked onto the tacho needle drive mechanism and causing stiction. If this is the case, then the clock needs opening up and cleaning/servicing. Before you do that, just check that the cable entry on the underside of the clock isn't either clogged with grease, or dry and causing the inner bush to heat and snatch. Clean off the grease/dirt, and drop a small amount of 3-in 1 oil in whilst holding clock upside down. Spin it up gently whilst keeping upside down to allow the oil to lubricate the inner bush. Maybe leave upside down for an hour or 2 to allow for some penetration, then try the tacho again. If no improvement, likely to be the internal damper fluid issue. If you not happy to do this, I can sort for you. Shaun.
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Post by fletche36 on May 7, 2024 18:47:39 GMT 1
OK. today i sorted the hanging idle by re doing the reed blocks but i have come across an issue with the rev counter. its very slow responding to revs up to about 5k but after that seems to "pick up" as normal. is this something i can fix myself or shall i send it away to one of the forum clock specialists? The cable is ok and its spinning like a good un when its not in the clock so im guessing i can discount that. I have also just bought some angled carb tops and new jets for a set of pwk 28s that im going to fit and i think im going to go down the route of nobbing off the air box and using some foam ram airs. i understand that the airbox is probably the best for outright performance but its just something that i quite like and was always something i did as a youth. Standby for a post about how im struggling to remove the box!!!!! Most likely fluid from the internal damper has leaked onto the tacho needle drive mechanism and causing stiction. If this is the case, then the clock needs opening up and cleaning/servicing. Before you do that, just check that the cable entry on the underside of the clock isn't either clogged with grease, or dry and causing the inner bush to heat and snatch. Clean off the grease/dirt, and drop a small amount of 3-in 1 oil in whilst holding clock upside down. Spin it up gently whilst keeping upside down to allow the oil to lubricate the inner bush. Maybe leave upside down for an hour or 2 to allow for some penetration, then try the tacho again. If no improvement, likely to be the internal damper fluid issue. If you not happy to do this, I can sort for you. Shaun. Thanks, ill have a try at that tomorrow or Thursday and ill report back to you. Appreciate your advice.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 7, 2024 22:41:51 GMT 1
Started jetting these old school Mikuni power jet carbs. They have no provision for idle. The first time I started the bike it was a bit fluffy and when riding any more than 1/4 throttle the engine would cut out. I dropped the pilot jets down from 70’s to 60’s and main jets down from 240’s to 190’s. Started without that fluffy feeling but was even worse to ride. Upped the main jets to 300’s, still sounds good at idle and small improvement with riding but still cutting out. With the chokes pulled open it doesn’t cut out and I had the feeling I was sitting on the back of a scolded cat. Just a feeling as this engine has newly honed cylinders and new pistons so not even a mile on it yet. The next step is to try some 400 main jets and double check the float heights. Not had much time lately for playing with bikes and only had an hour on this before it got dark. As you can see this bike isn’t very roadworthy. All testing was done on a private track! After spending a couple more hours last Saturday trying to jet the carbs i decided i need some bigger needle valves. Not knowing how long that will take i reverted to the standard carbs.
This meant checking the carbs were ok and fitting the jets etc which i have done so much of i just checked to see if the bike would start.
So today the bike was in the van on the way to the dyno bank.
The fine adjustment was two sizes up on the main jets from 440 to 460 and drop the needles down one notch from the center position.
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Post by fletche36 on May 8, 2024 16:02:06 GMT 1
Most likely fluid from the internal damper has leaked onto the tacho needle drive mechanism and causing stiction. If this is the case, then the clock needs opening up and cleaning/servicing. Before you do that, just check that the cable entry on the underside of the clock isn't either clogged with grease, or dry and causing the inner bush to heat and snatch. Clean off the grease/dirt, and drop a small amount of 3-in 1 oil in whilst holding clock upside down. Spin it up gently whilst keeping upside down to allow the oil to lubricate the inner bush. Maybe leave upside down for an hour or 2 to allow for some penetration, then try the tacho again. If no improvement, likely to be the internal damper fluid issue. If you not happy to do this, I can sort for you. Shaun. Thanks, ill have a try at that tomorrow or Thursday and ill report back to you. Appreciate your advice. Shaun, i did that and its 80% better. seems to work fine over 2k revs but its slow to start when you fire the bike up. unfortunately i now seem to have some light oil residue on the clock face but ill see whether i can live with it. Chances are that its coming to you for a refurb at some point in the future but hopefully ill get the riding season out if it. Thanks for your advice.
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Post by stusco on May 8, 2024 19:58:54 GMT 1
Went a run to hub71
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Post by copper99 on May 9, 2024 10:44:36 GMT 1
Not the LC but had the dirty diesel up at the NW200 practice for a day out. ...all the best with that. Did you bring that along to the Firestorm meet and then trackday at Rockingham some years back, maybe 2016/17?
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fabiostar
Thrash Merchant
the older i get the faster i was.
Posts: 406
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Post by fabiostar on May 9, 2024 11:04:20 GMT 1
Not the LC but had the dirty diesel up at the NW200 practice for a day out. ...all the best with that. Did you bring that along to the Firestorm meet and then trackday at Rockingham some years back, maybe 2016/17? iv been over to a few of the firestorm meets in Scotland, the rockingham meet i didnt get to, bit of a trip from Belfast just for a single day, i know two of the bikes at the meet to mean are sister bikes to this one.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 9, 2024 13:44:21 GMT 1
I've been oiling me pipes up today.
I love the colour of bare steel pipes with a bit of heat in them
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Post by copper99 on May 10, 2024 10:59:37 GMT 1
Another MOT victory for the mighty YSR80...can get out and about on this this evening i hope.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 10, 2024 11:15:47 GMT 1
Another MOT victory for the mighty YSR80...can get out and about on this this evening i hope. They Look great!
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