|
|
Post by wonkywheel on Nov 24, 2012 19:49:21 GMT 1
Hi there, I recon I’ve joined the club now ;D I casually entered the garaged this afternoon, and the whiff of petrol attacked my nostrils.  Oh dear... Bugger   Anyway, that’s life, although I could well do without the faring damage   Ok, for now I have filled it with metal- weld, yet I recon it won’t last for too long. What have you guys done with this problem? What type of welding? Mig or try brazing, not that I know anyone with the gear these days. Is it worth the combination of welding and then sealing the tank? What with? I don’t want to use a cheap sealant which lifts and buggers my carbs. Any recommendation for decent tank sealant? I have a mate who has a decent Snapon mig unit. I was thinking: mig it, then apply plastic metal (or whatever you guys recommend?) then seal the tank. Comments appreciated, Many thanks, |
|
|
|
Post by broughton5 on Nov 24, 2012 20:42:36 GMT 1
i used chemical metal putty (prob the same sort of stuff as what you have used) then sealed the tank with pet seal ultra, had fuel in for about a year now with no probs at all.
|
|
m1ke
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 399
|
Post by m1ke on Nov 24, 2012 21:09:38 GMT 1
Unlucky with that spoiling the fairing too..... I would get it brazed and then seal the inside of the tank with something like POR15 tank sealer or sureseal www.tankcareproducts.co.uk/# |
|
|
|
Post by looey on Nov 24, 2012 22:22:22 GMT 1
Chemical metal is very good.
I had a patch of Chemical metal over a hole on my 125LC tank for over 2 years and it never failed.
I only changed the tank when I found a good solid replacement
|
|
|
|
Post by bluetzrypvs on Nov 25, 2012 2:39:26 GMT 1
that's a bummer!!,
mate i would say braze would be best!,
i have been a welder for 18 years now and if you need any help give me a shout as i am in fareham area and might be able to help.
|
|
|
|
Post by wonkywheel on Nov 25, 2012 16:57:04 GMT 1
that's a bummer!!, mate i would say braze would be best!, i have been a welder for 18 years now and if you need any help give me a shout as i am in fareham area and might be able to help. Thanks for the offer and guys for all your advice. After yesterday’s initial shock and a few glasses of plonk, I braved it back into the garage today. After another inspection, I noticed that the other side of the tank, just up from the petrol-cap has been filled. I had a look inside the tank, which is fairly rust free, and noticed at the bottom of the tank in both opposite places is where it has rusted through. The tank definitely needs some form of welding in these areas. I’m not sure about tank sealant because other than these two areas its in good nick. |
|
|
|
Post by rd350r on Nov 26, 2012 10:38:00 GMT 1
From your photo's it looks like yours is a 350R, even if you have the tank welded I would also seal the inside of the tank, as the problem is likely to return as the steel is paper thin. I had the same problem myself and sealed my tank with www.caswelleurope.co.uk/gastank.htmRecommended. |
|
|
|
Post by wonkywheel on Nov 26, 2012 20:48:09 GMT 1
From your photo's it looks like yours is a 350R, even if you have the tank welded I would also seal the inside of the tank, as the problem is likely to return as the steel is paper thin. I had the same problem myself and sealed my tank with www.caswelleurope.co.uk/gastank.htmRecommended. Thanks  Your telling me about the tank being thin, the reviews were correct. For me, part of owning a classic is maintaining it yourself. Many moons ago i was a time served mechanic, yet I'm not sure about welding this tank myself because it's so thin  I need a fresher course on brazing  |
|
|
|
Post by shandyboy on Nov 26, 2012 22:08:03 GMT 1
Hi mate I worked for a company call Serek Services we specialized in repairing all kinds of tanks the only 2 options i would use are soft solder or silver solder depending how thin the metal is!! The benift of soft solder would be that it melts at a low temp (120 deg) Silver solder melts at (720) degs but makes for a stronger repair, most car Radiator repair companys can do this and pressure test it for you. Where abouts are you located?? I would recommend the soft solder option as once repaired and painted you would never be able to tell. Cheers Alan  |
|
|
|
Post by wonkywheel on Nov 27, 2012 0:23:06 GMT 1
Hi mate I worked for a company call Serek Services we specialized in repairing all kinds of tanks the only 2 options i would use are soft solder or silver solder depending how thin the metal is!! The benift of soft solder would be that it melts at a low temp (120 deg) Silver solder melts at (720) degs but makes for a stronger repair, most car Radiator repair companys can do this and pressure test it for you. Where abouts are you located?? I would recommend the soft solder option as once repaired and painted you would never be able to tell. Cheers Alan Thanks for the advice, noted what you are saying. Located in Hampshire. Whatever I do, I need to be careful with the heat, otherwise novices like me will burn a hole in the tank; worse still start spitting pigeon crap everwhere! Even with brazing I would need use a small nozle size, rods pressure and mixture. It was so long ago. |
|
|
|
Post by rd350r on Nov 27, 2012 17:48:04 GMT 1
The Japanese made F2 tank is exactly the same thickness I'm led to believe, so has the same problem, (water in the tank collecting at that low part), due to rain getting in through the filler cap ?, condensation forming internally due to not having tank full while laid up over winter ?, or just bad design ?.
|
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 27, 2012 19:54:18 GMT 1
|
|
|
|
Post by The Pirate on Nov 27, 2012 21:32:45 GMT 1
|
|
|
|
Post by bigal1 on Nov 29, 2012 10:46:13 GMT 1
take it to a local rad repair place and ask if they can sort it
|
|
|
|
Post by wonkywheel on Nov 29, 2012 19:02:19 GMT 1
be a shame to pull a hundred quid out for something that "looks ok" to find it also leaks  Yup, it does leak! The seller was kind enough to check it. It leaks, listing amended. Yup easy to part with your money on ebay with checking the item. |
|
|
|
Post by wonkywheel on Nov 29, 2012 19:06:42 GMT 1
take it to a local rad repair place and ask if they can sort it I had to make a made dash to Devon this week. On my way back to Hants, I popped in a rad repair place and they said they could sort it. So might make a few enquires now I am home. |
|
|
|
Post by wonkywheel on Dec 16, 2012 16:00:31 GMT 1
My neighbour, who’s a plumber, advised lead welding. So that’s what I did.    I indented the holes so when I sanded down the weld, it was flush with the rest of the tank. It isn’t the best job, yet it didn't cost too much to repair. You can pick up these pencil torches for a few quid. They have no problem with melting lead, yet not hot enough for brass brazing rods. Will wait until the warmer weather comes and then apply the top coat. I left it to stand for week with fuel in. No leaks for now. Still reluctant to put a sealant in, especially in this cold weather.  As the recent rain had washed the salt of the roads I took it for a test run. Back on the road, that's what counts.  ;D |
|
|
|
Post by marsbar350 on Dec 16, 2012 16:06:46 GMT 1
nice job wonko! lets hope everything holds pass the tip on to mickfocus hes in need of help |
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Dec 16, 2012 22:33:06 GMT 1
lead welding does look good. Ive used silver solder and MAPP but this would be a lower temp solution for sure. can you let us know what lead and flux you used?
I also used to have one of those blue torches, always went out when you put the flame end down lol
|
|
artie
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 341
|
Post by artie on Dec 16, 2012 22:34:09 GMT 1
Sound job there mate,fingers crossed for you |
|
|
|
Post by mudguts on Dec 17, 2012 10:25:04 GMT 1
I sealed a leaky tank with Rustbusters Slosh, been 6 months now
with no signs of leaks, but ive sourced a mint tank just incase.
|
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 17, 2012 10:30:15 GMT 1
Leading should be a good result.
It's how they used to fill joints on car body work, seen it on some car resto programs.
I'd still put a liner in as the thin bits around the repairs can corrode more and fail again.
At least the pre treatment would kill the rust.
Steve
|
|
|
|
Post by wonkywheel on Dec 17, 2012 21:12:34 GMT 1
lead welding does look good. Ive used silver solder and MAPP but this would be a lower temp solution for sure. can you let us know what lead and flux you used? I also used to have one of those blue torches, always went out when you put the flame end down lol Hiya, I used a flux paste which looks like grease. I did not use lead-free, I used plummers lead, not sure what size, although it was quite thick, about 2-3 mm. I might put a sealant in, yet not until the summer when it't warmer for drying and I can do a proper pucker job |
|
|
|
Post by The Pirate on Dec 18, 2012 19:14:49 GMT 1
did the lead just fill the holes or did it also run and drip inside??? dod you heat up the tank or the lead or both??? I like this idea it looks like it good be good |
|
|
|
Post by scott on Dec 18, 2012 20:21:28 GMT 1
|
|
|
|
Post by wonkywheel on Dec 18, 2012 21:10:38 GMT 1
did the lead just fill the holes or did it also run and drip inside??? dod you heat up the tank or the lead or both??? I like this idea it looks like it good be good No, just countersink the holes, heat the tank, apply flux and allow the lead to flow and build up a pool. I ain't an expert, practice helps. My tank was minor Compared to Scott's tank, nicely done |
|
m1ke
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 399
|
Post by m1ke on Dec 22, 2012 0:48:30 GMT 1
When's Norbo gonna get pattern tanks made  |
|
;D
