valve engine in 4l0 many questions

[billyboy]

Need some advice please to all those that have fitted a valve lump into a 4l0 frame .What is the best loom to use ? a original lc or valve one? .I can also remember seeing somewhere about drilling the thermostat and blocking something off. any ideas ? anything else to look out for ? sorted for pipes and the servo mount though. cheers

[cb250g5]

I'm running F2 loom, switches, clocks etc.

The LC rad doesn't have the same pipework arrangement as a valve, as it has no thermostat as standard.

So on the valve head you can blank the bypass hose off & drill a 3mm or so hole in the stat to compensate. It's just to allow a bit of water to flow whilst the engine is warming up, but the stat is closed.

[billyboy]

thanks for the reply ,did you have any issuses routing the loom and mounting the fuse box etc ?

[Trubrit]

It All Depends What You Have Already , If You Have A Valve Lump Complete With All Electrics Then Use It , If You Just End Up With The Motor Stator PV Servo I Would Go For A Zeel & Use All Original LC Loom Switchgear ETC..........

[dusty350]

Hi
I used an F2 loom, switch gear and all electrics with my F2 engined hybrid.I needed to replace all main items anyway, so sourced the F2 parts that I needed. I figured it was easier to use the loom that matched most of the electrics. Main change for me was using the Lc clocks as the loom for them is different, but I got it all working no problem. I have done the 3mm hole in the thermostat, which should prevent the overflow tank filling up. If you use Lc clocks, I have got the wiring guide somewhere which will help you connect it all up.

Regards

Dusty

[cb250g5]

Sept 27, 2012 23:19:00 GMT 1 billyboy said:

thanks for the reply ,did you have any issuses routing the loom and mounting the fuse box etc ?

Nope, all relatively easy. I have the fusebox behind the LH side panel and the R/R mounted under the rear mudguard, where it picks up a bit of cooling wind.

My loom is a bit hacked about though, many a non - standard connector, so it may be a bit more difficult if you have a good standard loom & don't want to make the odd change here and there, but it's not rocket science.

Hardest bit lately has been fitting LED indicators & making the dash light (only 1 on my N2 clocks) behave properly, without having to resort to the terrible bodge of putting resistors across the bulbs. Did it with 2 diodes and a bit of rewiring.

[billyboy]

thanks all

[bare]

Dead simple actually. Hundreds have managed this before you.
NO loom mods needed (leave it alone!) .. just add on the 5 wires to the servo, alter the CDI connectors to fit the Valvie CDI.
Use the LC drive sprocket spacer, do the 3mm drill hole in the thermostat .. And yer ready to go.