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Post by windymiller on Aug 29, 2012 14:55:53 GMT 1
hi, have just bought replacement clutch basket for my lc. i need to drill out the old rivets and bolt the new one in place. anyone done this before? is it easy or difficult, i can get my hands on a pillar drill or would you just take it to a local engineering works? any advice would be much welcome. thanks
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Post by Norbo on Sept 3, 2012 13:51:41 GMT 1
Hi . Welcome to the forum
Its not a hard job you will be fine doing it your self if you have a piller drill . but if a local place can do it cheep it may be worth geting them to do it just for the simpleness of it and they have better drill bits .
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yaddy
L plate rider.
Posts: 26
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Post by yaddy on Sept 4, 2012 12:20:57 GMT 1
Dead easy, done this myself in under an hour yesterday  No need to drill anything, just grind the head of the rivets off the back of the basket and use a centre punch to knock it through (I used a 4" angle grinder but a dremel or similar would also do the job). Run an 8mm tap down the holes in the clutch basket (unless your new one is already threaded) and bolt it on (thread lock is essential!) |
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Post by rich on Sept 4, 2012 13:02:56 GMT 1
Not done it myself but bear in mind if anything comes loose it will jam everything solid, including the back wheel. Just thought I'd mention that and good luck |
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Post by steven on Sept 4, 2012 17:44:54 GMT 1
Hi, I have also recently bought one of the clutch basket overhal kits, as the clutch basket I have has a fair bit of play in the rubbers. If I hold the gear, and twist the basket back and forward, there is approx 3-5 mm or so of play, which makes me think the clutch rubbers are worn??? so i was going to fit the overhaul kit with the new rubbers. The overhaul kit I got came with four M6 screws, and the new basket is already tapped to M6. I had the same thoughts, in that, if the four M6 screws started to slacken off and screw themselves out..... it would take the edge off your day !... and possibly jam the back wheel.  But after thinking about it, if the four screws worked their way out, it would not be good,as it could jam the clutch basket, and possibly the back wheel. But this would be no different to the engine seizeing, and when that happens, you still would be able to pull the clutch in.(hopefuly!) I recon that if these screws came out and jammed the clutch basket, you would still have the option to pull the clutch in, and hopefuly not land on your arse. The screws in my kit are almost like button head cap screws, so they are not thick enough to drill for lock wire. I recon that a good clean of all threads with a suitable solvent degreaser and the strongest loctite you can get a hold of is about the best bet. It will just be something else to concern my self with while driving it, along with, will it seize and all the various other things that go through your head while driving a bike that you have had in as many bits as it will go. Steven. |
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yaddy
L plate rider.
Posts: 26
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Post by yaddy on Sept 5, 2012 0:06:36 GMT 1
3mm is not overly worn, 5mm is probably getting there and ready for new rubbers.
The one I did on Monday is my 2nd, I covered just shy of a thousand miles on the 1st "bolted basket" and when I inspected the bolts etc, everything was still buttoned up nice and tight.
You need to use low profile bolts, hex heads, buttons or similar otherwise they will catch on the kickstart idler gear. I used genuine baskets on both my rebuilds, an 8mm tap fits in the rivet hole perfectly, I turned hexagon heads down on a lathe to give me sufficient clearance from the idler gear, plenty of loctite and really got some torque on the bolts. Not sure I would use 6mm ones myself but these kits seem to sell well and I have not heard of anyone's basket making a break for freedom yet?
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Post by steven on Sept 5, 2012 17:01:40 GMT 1
Hi,
I was not aware that genuine baskets were available?
How much is a genuine basket then out of interest?
Steven.
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yaddy
L plate rider.
Posts: 26
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Post by yaddy on Sept 5, 2012 19:09:44 GMT 1
Sorry, should have stated that the genuine baskets I rebuilt were good used items.
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Post by marsbar350 on Sept 5, 2012 20:58:47 GMT 1
Hi, I was not aware that genuine baskets were available? How much is a genuine basket then out of interest? Steven. im sure arrow a member on here bought a new clutch basket from granbys.same as a power valve @£160 |
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Post by steven on Sept 5, 2012 21:23:30 GMT 1
Hi, ok, thanks for the info.
I ordered a new clutch center bush the other day from Granby, it was £21.
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Post by Bozzy on Sept 6, 2012 1:12:54 GMT 1
In case anyone interested replaced clutch basket like this;-
I drilled from the rear side of the clutch (gear side) with a small drill bit down to just below the face of the gear. Then used a larger drill to take more of the rivet out. Using a sharp chilsel took off the top then with a nail hammered the rivet through which it fell out basket side. Easy job!.
Pity you can't get them for AR125's!!
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Post by ringdingding on Sept 6, 2012 17:28:49 GMT 1
when you did it did you bother replacing the paper gasket?
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yaddy
L plate rider.
Posts: 26
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Post by yaddy on Sept 6, 2012 23:20:08 GMT 1
on both occasions when i built mine, the gaskets were fine and used again (both were different types though)
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Post by Bozzy on Sept 10, 2012 20:34:02 GMT 1
when you did it did you bother replacing the paper gasket? Sorry for delay no just cleaned and put it back in place. Not sure you can buy them in any case. Also removed the rubber dambers when fitting clutch plates. One thing to note mine is the 31k ypvs model I found that the new round cush rubbers you get were a little too large to fit them all so i ended up using 1/2 quanity of the original smaller ones and new ones which made it soild with no play . Have seen others suggest cutting them down or drilling the centre but I found this mix ok. |
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