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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 17, 2012 15:55:26 GMT 1
Got this today, seems a shame to paint it.  Also ordered a 50 degree stat so hopefully nice and cool now. Last piece in the jigsaw before the dyno. Steve |
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Post by 47x on Jul 17, 2012 16:04:25 GMT 1
very nice! ;D
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Post by arrow on Jul 17, 2012 16:21:32 GMT 1
That is nice. I would leave it unpainted.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 17, 2012 16:37:18 GMT 1
That is nice. I would leave it unpainted. I don't know if I could bring myself to paint it, might just coat it in acf 50 and hope for the best. Steve |
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horace
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 456
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Post by horace on Jul 17, 2012 20:42:38 GMT 1
Looks good just as it is ,were did you order your 50 degree stat Steve ,did u thing about runing it without a stat?
chris.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 17, 2012 21:28:42 GMT 1
Looks good just as it is ,were did you order your 50 degree stat Steve ,did u thing about runing it without a stat? chris. Got a part number from the guy I got the rad from, god knows what it is off but is a Yamaha part. Got one on order so will see what turns up. Part number is 82m-12411-00, hopefully the right one as it was £30 Don't really want to run with no stat as would take ages to heat up and as I am running forged pistons it has to be warm before any sort of revs. Steve |
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Post by robsypvs on Jul 17, 2012 21:44:52 GMT 1
Nice Rad who did that for you & what cost was it, im looking to have one done for my formula two hybrid LC.
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Post by rdstars on Jul 17, 2012 21:50:40 GMT 1
Work of art that, mmm.
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horace
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 456
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Post by horace on Jul 17, 2012 21:52:56 GMT 1
Thanks for that I,ll wait to see how you get on before I try to find one.
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Post by Norbo on Jul 18, 2012 10:08:00 GMT 1
Looks real nice . what ever you decide to do with it id fit it first to make shure it fits ok
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Post by cb250g5 on Jul 18, 2012 10:21:31 GMT 1
Why do you think a 50 degree stat will make it run cooler?
It will just take longer to warm up, the opposite of what you need.
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Post by bigal1 on Jul 18, 2012 10:57:03 GMT 1
nice rad you could paint the outside and leave the core
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 18, 2012 16:34:26 GMT 1
Looks real nice . what ever you decide to do with it id fit it first to make shure it fits ok Thought of that ;D Acf 50 then fitted so bare it is. - nice  Steve |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 18, 2012 16:38:19 GMT 1
Why do you think a 50 degree stat will make it run cooler? It will just take longer to warm up, the opposite of what you need. Been told ideal running temp for a stroker is 50 - 55 degrees so trying to get it running cooler and more constant. At the moment when started you can get some heat in the engine before running but over the first mile temp gauge rises to 3/4 before stat opens which then floods the motor with cool water so temp plummets again so not ideal. Trying to get it to open earlier and get a smoother heat build up with no sudden changes. Also a radiator will only dissipate so much heat so if the incoming water it 70 degrees it will only cool by say 20 degrees so if the incoming temp is reduced then so will the outlet hence cooler running. Steve |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 18, 2012 17:49:24 GMT 1
Nice Rad who did that for you & what cost was it, im looking to have one done for my formula two hybrid LC. Got it from a guy on the rd/rz forum. www.mb-designs.co.uk/page2.php£295 Steve |
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Post by cb250g5 on Jul 18, 2012 20:19:27 GMT 1
Why do you think a 50 degree stat will make it run cooler? It will just take longer to warm up, the opposite of what you need. Been told ideal running temp for a stroker is 50 - 55 degrees so trying to get it running cooler and more constant. At the moment when started you can get some heat in the engine before running but over the first mile temp gauge rises to 3/4 before stat opens which then floods the motor with cool water so temp plummets again so not ideal. Trying to get it to open earlier and get a smoother heat build up with no sudden changes. Also a radiator will only dissipate so much heat so if the incoming water it 70 degrees it will only cool by say 20 degrees so if the incoming temp is reduced then so will the outlet hence cooler running. Steve I think you'll be disappointed. the engine produces a certain amount of heat, the radiator can dissipate a certain amount. So once the system warms up, the stat will be always open & the temp setting on the stat has no effect. However it'll now open earlier whilst warming up, letting cold water in, so warm up will take longer. A more efficient radiator can reduce running temps, could do with one myself, but the stat only affects warm up times. Unless of course you massively overcool it, to the point where it never gets up to a sensible working temperature. I'd have thought you would want to run as hot as possible, for decent efficiency. Yamaha pressurise the system so the coolant can go over 100 degrees C, without boiling. I seem to think 1/2 way on the gauge is around the 85 degrees C. 50 -55 seems way too low to me. Did your source suggest a stat opening of 50 - 55 or a running temp? |
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Post by alext on Jul 18, 2012 20:40:43 GMT 1
Where you taking it for the dyno??
Somewhere local (central-belt)??
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 18, 2012 21:17:33 GMT 1
Been told ideal running temp for a stroker is 50 - 55 degrees so trying to get it running cooler and more constant. At the moment when started you can get some heat in the engine before running but over the first mile temp gauge rises to 3/4 before stat opens which then floods the motor with cool water so temp plummets again so not ideal. Trying to get it to open earlier and get a smoother heat build up with no sudden changes. Also a radiator will only dissipate so much heat so if the incoming water it 70 degrees it will only cool by say 20 degrees so if the incoming temp is reduced then so will the outlet hence cooler running. Steve I think you'll be disappointed. the engine produces a certain amount of heat, the radiator can dissipate a certain amount. So once the system warms up, the stat will be always open & the temp setting on the stat has no effect. However it'll now open earlier whilst warming up, letting cold water in, so warm up will take longer. A more efficient radiator can reduce running temps, could do with one myself, but the stat only affects warm up times. Unless of course you massively overcool it, to the point where it never gets up to a sensible working temperature. I'd have thought you would want to run as hot as possible, for decent efficiency. Yamaha pressurise the system so the coolant can go over 100 degrees C, without boiling. I seem to think 1/2 way on the gauge is around the 85 degrees C. 50 -55 seems way too low to me. Did your source suggest a stat opening of 50 - 55 or a running temp? Mine goes to 3/4 before opening so must be hitting 100. Think the stats are quite slow to react. The 50 - 55 degrees was running temp, came from TSS Steve |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 18, 2012 21:18:11 GMT 1
Where you taking it for the dyno?? Somewhere local (central-belt)?? There's on in Hillington. Steve |
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Post by Norbo on Jul 19, 2012 7:23:27 GMT 1
At nearly £300 i think the rad was a lot The ones i used to do were £185 and the same spect but not alloy . its bloody nive but a bit pricy. It will defo make the bike run coller i dont think you will need a diferent stat . once its up to temp the stat is open anyway so not an isue . What will help is an uprated impella to curculate the big rad i have some they are $45 if thats any good to you .
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 19, 2012 9:25:41 GMT 1
At nearly £300 i think the rad was a lot The ones i used to do were £185 and the same spect but not alloy . its bloody nive but a bit pricy. It will defo make the bike run coller i dont think you will need a diferent stat . once its up to temp the stat is open anyway so not an isue . What will help is an uprated impella to curculate the big rad i have some they are $45 if thats any good to you . You have a short memory, got one from you last year ;D Had one of the other large rads on and it burst which is why I moved to the other type. Steve |
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Post by Norbo on Jul 20, 2012 11:01:15 GMT 1
Ive got a couple of new alloy rads on the way now as it hapends a standard one and a double one i hope they look as nice as this one when they arrive .
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phil38
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 426
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Post by phil38 on Jul 21, 2012 5:46:47 GMT 1
That is nice. I would leave it unpainted. I don't know if I could bring myself to paint it, might just coat it in acf 50 and hope for the best. Steve If you coat with ACF, won't it attract crud & foul up pretty quickly? |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 21, 2012 11:29:27 GMT 1
I don't know if I could bring myself to paint it, might just coat it in acf 50 and hope for the best. Steve If you coat with ACF, won't it attract crud & foul up pretty quickly? once heated it should dry up and just stop it corroding considering it's in front of the exhausts and the leakage you get at the headers I'm sure it will be getting cleaned a lot. Steve |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 31, 2012 9:05:22 GMT 1
I think you'll be disappointed. the engine produces a certain amount of heat, the radiator can dissipate a certain amount. So once the system warms up, the stat will be always open & the temp setting on the stat has no effect. However it'll now open earlier whilst warming up, letting cold water in, so warm up will take longer. A more efficient radiator can reduce running temps, could do with one myself, but the stat only affects warm up times. Unless of course you massively overcool it, to the point where it never gets up to a sensible working temperature. I'd have thought you would want to run as hot as possible, for decent efficiency. Yamaha pressurise the system so the coolant can go over 100 degrees C, without boiling. I seem to think 1/2 way on the gauge is around the 85 degrees C. 50 -55 seems way too low to me. Did your source suggest a stat opening of 50 - 55 or a running temp? Mine goes to 3/4 before opening so must be hitting 100. Think the stats are quite slow to react. The 50 - 55 degrees was running temp, came from TSS Steve Well had it out last night ( first time it was dry and I had the time) and although it did take 2 miles to heat up it seems to be all good. Fitted a rentec gaurd with one of norbo's laser cut grills so rad is shielded a bit but will change to mesh if it get near a track. Blatting around back roads the gauge sits at 1/3 constantly where before it would rise to 2/3 if revving high at lower speeds and held at 8k on motorway for 9 miles ( brave when mixture not checked on dyno) it sat at 1/2 so all seems well and worth while. Steve |
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Post by Norbo on Sept 3, 2012 13:57:20 GMT 1
Lets see how it looks fitted themn
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Post by lb on Sept 4, 2012 4:22:07 GMT 1
Leave it bare metal,better heat dissapation which is what its all about.
RG500.com just did a group buy deal on the 40mm thick rads.I know he has 1 left at 375usd.
Sorry Norbo if I've stepped on your toes...delete if unappropriate.
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Post by Norbo on Sept 4, 2012 10:10:29 GMT 1
No no it snot a problem at all .
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Sept 5, 2012 8:24:59 GMT 1
Lets see how it looks fitted themn Can't see the grill, painted satin black as I had got rid of a lot of the bling polished bits.    Deffo looks good bare Steve |
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