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Post by andyburts on Apr 7, 2012 23:25:08 GMT 1
ive now had approx 5 hours of trying to bleed the front brake on my 250 lc !!! . its had new piston seals . new master cylinder repair kit . i fitted the cylinder repair kit but the plunger wasnt operating smoothly it wasnt returning everytime when i released the lever so ive stripped it again & fitted the new seals to the old plunger & that works fine now . ive tried every way i know of bleeding a brake & cannot get it working at all . at one point i did have the piston moving but only briefly & then it dissapeard again :-( . is there a knack of doing them ? i know they can be troublesome but this is friggin ridiculous !! it all seems to be doing what its supposed to but just cannot get a brake ? any help greately appreciated ...
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Post by 47x on Apr 8, 2012 10:36:26 GMT 1
try taking the bleed nipple out,put your finger over the hole,and pump slowly for a while(5-10 mins)see if you get any pressure,if you got the piston moving your nearly there,but this is always a pain in de ass.good luck!!!
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Post by oldelsieboy on Apr 8, 2012 10:50:30 GMT 1
Never tried it myself but heard the best way is to reverse bleed, connect a syringe of brake fluid to the caliper & force the liquid up the line to the reservoir.
Might be worth a try.
OEB
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Post by andyburts on Apr 8, 2012 11:54:31 GMT 1
ive tried both those ways :-( with no luck . ive just bought one of those vacuum bleeders so ill try that when it arrives . .fingers crossed ...
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Post by rich on Apr 8, 2012 13:46:28 GMT 1
Is the return hole clear in the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir?
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Post by LC_BOTT on Apr 8, 2012 13:51:10 GMT 1
I always seem to have trouble when the piston is pushed fully back into the caliper for some reason? You'd think it would be easy, as you need less fluid. I take it you've tried the syringe in doth directions too??
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Post by atomicstroker on Apr 8, 2012 16:41:19 GMT 1
I've just been fighting with the rear master cylinder on my 31k. I too eventually resorted to fitting new seals to the old piston, it was the only way to get it to move. With the new piston and new seals fitted it was SOLID!!! I even wondered if they'd started making the pistons slightly oversize but decided that was stupid. My repair kit came from Yambits and I'll be speaking to them first Tuesday - not happy!
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Post by andyburts on Apr 8, 2012 17:36:57 GMT 1
yeah rich the return hole is clear , , , must admit i feel a bit better knowing im not on my own ( dont meen that nastily ) , ive never had so much grief with a brake .. im also not a big fan of pattern parts !! i never have any joy with them , why the fooook i bought them is beyond me ( tryin to save a few quid ) .. the spring in the master was a different length to the original & also the plunger bit with the corkscrew was slightly different & as i said earlier once i put the new seals on the old plunger it returned fine ... not touchin it again till the vac bleeder arrives ...
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lcbob
L plate rider.
Posts: 17
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Post by lcbob on Apr 10, 2012 22:31:13 GMT 1
You have not mentioned the brake pipe, is there any obstruction inside.Does the fluid flow to the caliper Also you could try tapping the pipe whilst bleeding. Your not alone ,I spent about 5 hours on a XT Tenere single caliper once
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Post by gazilla on Apr 11, 2012 16:51:27 GMT 1
Sometimes leaving the bleed nipple closed and tying break lever on for 12 hours bleeds fluid through with cap off works.As air works its way out.
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Post by woodentopp on Apr 11, 2012 16:54:16 GMT 1
I had the same with mine, the only way I got it to go was with a home made vacuum pump on the bleed nipple with a clear plastic hose between to see if any fluid came out. Either way it's still a test of patience!
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Post by andyburts on Apr 11, 2012 21:44:56 GMT 1
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Post by bare on Apr 12, 2012 16:25:27 GMT 1
Dunno. IF reverse bleeding with a plastic syringe proves ineffective.
Cheap ass syringe easily produces 20 psi from thumb pressure alone.
Without a question the entire circuit is clearly Fooked.. somewhere in it's innards.
Rebuild ..Everything.. from Master to lines to Caliper.
Before even thinking of trusting/riding with it.
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Post by davey on Apr 12, 2012 16:47:19 GMT 1
i had the same problem with my 250 ended up geting a new master cylinder when all i was doing was originaly changing the calliper seal.
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Post by bertyward on Apr 18, 2012 18:09:01 GMT 1
go to your local farm shop and buy a plastic syringe (no needle) get a small rubber hose to connect to the bleed nipple, open the nipple and push the fluid up to the master cylinder close the nipple, then once you have a brake you can bleed the other way to get any air out that may be stuck. I did mine last week, took 10 min works a treat
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