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Post by LC'Adam on Feb 11, 2012 1:31:10 GMT 1
Put my 125 engine back together after replacing the stator, clutch and piston rings. It appears to have a timing issue, won't start, just pops/bangs very loud out of the pipe occasionally and throws the kickstart back up, nearly broke me ankle :/ I thought the timing was fixed on 125LC's...... I can't see a way to adjust it, wtf is going on here? Could I getting the wires to the pulse coil the wrong way round cause this? Maybe the woodruff key has not located properly I just don't know..... Bloody thing has had no end of problems and after having the head and top of cylinder skimmed it is weeping coolant again!!! And appears to be leaking raw fuel from the L/H crank seal To top it off the kickstart no longer returns properly every time, sometimes it just sticks.... It will be going to the scrappers at this rate!!!
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Post by LC'Adam on Feb 11, 2012 1:33:15 GMT 1
help me out guys ;D would be greatly appreciated I know someone must have ran into a similar problem before... Just want it sorted to put my mind at rest
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Post by Tone on Feb 11, 2012 6:53:14 GMT 1
As you suggest first thing I would check is to see if the woodruff key is located properly. If you remove the flywheel nut you maybe able to see if its located properly. Sounds like the carb is flooding if you're getting that much fuel from the crank seal.
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Post by johnlc on Feb 11, 2012 9:11:26 GMT 1
I reckon you need to sort the fuelling ,possibly leaky float valve ,you could try turning tap off take plug out and kick the engine rapidly over to get rid of excess fuel with ignition off of course ,try new plug after turn tap on just enough to fill carb then switch it off ,try to start it then
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Post by johnlc on Feb 11, 2012 10:10:44 GMT 1
As long as the main is ok i have changed the left side seal in situ ,but could be petrol running from overflow
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Post by lcowner on Feb 11, 2012 17:24:19 GMT 1
push start the bugger first and c does it start..............
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Post by Delbert on Feb 11, 2012 17:52:15 GMT 1
Ref your coolant leak . have you used a multi layer head gasket ? if so they are absolute tosh i have had no end of problems with them on motorcycle & car engines. Either get a single layer or genuine head gasket
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Post by mellow on Feb 11, 2012 18:14:43 GMT 1
Timing is fixed adam Try all above suggestions and maybe check wiring from pick up sensor
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davslc
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 242
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Post by davslc on Feb 11, 2012 19:04:25 GMT 1
sound like a fuelling problem to me ,obviously over fuelling and why would it come out the crank seal ? what sort of condition are the barrel and rings with good compression it should shove it out the exhaust not into the bottom end just some ideas to run mate
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Post by LC'Adam on Feb 11, 2012 20:00:32 GMT 1
Thanks very much for all the suggestions guys!! Muchly appreciated!! It was the bloody pulse coil wires I had soldered onto the terminals the wrong way round, fired straight up when I swapped them. However it promptly stopped after the flywheel became saturated with fuel which is literally pissing out of the crank seal when shes running. Must be over fueling but then again it will need the crank seal changing too cause its so bad. Funny because it ran fine before it lost its spark, not lean or anything (which you would think a blown crank seal would cause. No signs of an air leak before...... Head gasket is crappy multi layer, need to install a genny one but I've spent so much money now on this little bike to no avail :/ I'll keep you guys updated... For sure I need to - Strip an inspect carb, remove flywheel and stator clean them thoroughly, replace crank seal, then fire it all back together and see what happens cheers lads
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Post by johnlc on Feb 11, 2012 20:09:29 GMT 1
Hi Adam you can change the crank seal without splitting cases provided main bearing's ok
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Post by LC'Adam on Feb 11, 2012 20:26:37 GMT 1
I assume the bearing will be okay, it was fine before I did the other work john....
How do you get the old one out like?
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Post by Delbert on Feb 11, 2012 20:27:47 GMT 1
chin up adam , these things do get ya down , tackle one bit at a time you will get there
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Post by johnlc on Feb 11, 2012 20:33:21 GMT 1
I prised it out with a thin screwdriver if i remember ,easy enough to go back in ,easy enough to check the left side main too just grab end of crank and check for play .The gearbox sprocket seal can be changed the same way as can 350lc sprocket seal
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Post by mellow on Feb 11, 2012 23:57:54 GMT 1
glad u sorted it m8
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