splitting motor for the 1st time

[Deleted]

gday, the time has now come to finally split the top and bottom engine cases, so far on my resto everything has been more or less straight forward, a few hiccups but no major hassles. After looking at all the bits and pieces it seems a bit daunting,has anybody got some tricks they picked up along the way to save a bit of pain, i have the Manuel, parts book, camera etc. it needs a re bore and new pistons, hopefully 1.75mm O/S,(norbo has them). I'm hoping the crank itself will be OK, i have all new genuine seals and gasket set, genuine head gasket. i guess what I'm asking for is any common fundamental mistakes people made when doing it the 1st time, tricks of the trade so to speak, any help would be great. thanks in advance

[lcowner]

ul find it hard to get 1.75 over ul have to go to 2.0
ul need a flywheel puller and a clucth holding tool

once ur at the stage of splitting the cases just undo all bolts nuts ect
and split the cases
just be carefull of the 2 x half rings wen u split it that u dont loose them,youl see wat im on about
its pretty easy tbh just take plenty pf piccys as ya go

[Deleted]

thanks nuts, i have a fly wheel puller but need a clutch holder(forgot about that), it seems to me that i will just have to take my time, the problem is its that close you just want to get it up and running, regards ken

[wizard]

Hi mate ,at the same stage as you. Will be watching your thread

[lcrider]

welcome to the site Ken . Im sure with them of members you do fine. I've noticed on hear as soon as any one posts a problem a bunch of members rush in to help and sort it. There like worker bees fixing a nest LOL.

[Bazille]

Hi
It would be worthwhile getting crank refurbed as you will regret it of you dont and put it all back together and you have rumbly main bearings or the Labriynth seal is knackered (No seal between the two cylinders) it is in my opinion £230 well spent for peace of mind!!
I recently restored my 500lc, the cranks, when in the cases seemed perfect when turning them by hand BUT when out of crankcases and i turned the bearing races they were very notchy/knackered. SO glad i decided to strip engine to completely check everything!

cheers Colin

[Deleted]

thanks for the welcome lc, it is a good site,and colin your right about the crank, i cant wait to have a close look,so far ive pulled the head and barrels for a good look, it had wiseco 1.5mm O/S pistons in itthat looked like they werent that old but it had sat for a couple of years and the bloke i got it from had to start it before selling so he could say it was running and the pistons were semi sized from sitting, anyway will pull apart soon and put up a couple of photos , cheers and thanks, ken

[Norbo]

Anything you get stuck on just post a pic and some one will help you its not a hard job. one time i talked a bloke threw it on the phone . LOL his phone bill must have been a good one that month

[lcowner]

aye agree with above if ur gunna split the cases you might as well go the whole hog if u know what i mean but get ur credit card ready for a bit of a roasting!
and i know there a few aussies on here that wud im sure lend u clucth tool but personally i dont have 1 as i use a rattle gun and hold the clucth basket with a cloth or u cud make one up easily enuf out of a length of steel

[midlifecrisisrd]

I'd second getting the crank done anyway, especially as it has been sitting. Have heard stories of bikes left with battery connected and pitting the mains, not sure how true.

Had a YPVS motor that had not been run for over a year so I stripped the top end and found although the pistons and bores had no sign of moisture one little end must of had some condensation and had corrosion along with the piston pin. This was easily sorted but would not trust this not to happen on a big end or main.

I would prefer to only do a rebuild once but up to you, maybe I'm too cautious.

Steve

[iainw]

Jan 13, 2012 13:39:11 GMT 1 lcowner said:

aye agree with above if ur gunna split the cases you might as well go the whole hog if u know what i mean but get ur credit card ready for a bit of a roasting!
and i know there a few aussies on here that wud im sure lend u clucth tool but personally i dont have 1 as i use a rattle gun and hold the clucth basket with a cloth or u cud make one up easily enuf out of a length of steel

The Haynes manual describes the home made tool. You bend a strip of steel into an S shape that hooks into the clutch and then wraps round it , then it doubles back around the crank to lock it in place. If I had a scanner I post the pics, hope this makes sense.

[Deleted]

thanks for all the replies, i will make my own tool as shown in the haynes, as most of you have said while its apart dont skimp on things, crank etc,and theres more than enough expertise here to hold my hand a bit, its probably one of those ÿou have nothing to fear but fear itself"type of things. as far as getting prepared for the cedit card to get a bit of a roasting, its beyond that already, its been cremated.lol

[lb]

Ah Kenny I just did one last week,easy peasy.One more tool you'll find handy is an impact driver (hammer type) esp for the top n bottom case brace at the clutch input shaft.
Where you buying your parts from Ken?As Im in the same boat as you.....

[Deleted]

gday lb, im getting most of my parts from the UK, from norbo here, UK ebay, yambits, wesmoto, some forum members here and if you have a parts book and you can use the part# and google it, there's a place in the USA called boats.net that have lots of the smaller things at pretty good prices, i found there isnt much in Aust although i got some nice front brake disks from a mob here on ebay, i had an argument with the local Yam dealer about there crazy prices and after they basically blamed the recession on me for not buying local at stupid prices i vowed never to enter their shop again,