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Post by miker1bike on Nov 15, 2011 0:54:26 GMT 1
Recently rebuilt Ypvs engine with new genuine gaskets but stupidly didn't replace crank seals !! Now the crank seal on the water pump side must be not sealing cause it's pressurising the gearbox oil which is getting forced out the breather at the back of the engine and all over the back tyre ! Bloody thing nearly had me off on a roundabout yesterday ! Not good !!!!!!!
My question is can I remove engine AGAIN ! But split the bottom crankcase from the top without removing barrels thus saving having to replace head gasket and base gaskets again ? Thanks in advance mike
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Post by nikfubar on Nov 15, 2011 8:46:57 GMT 1
Yeah  don't see why not |
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Post by woodentopp on Nov 15, 2011 8:53:05 GMT 1
Yep, you can no problem
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 15, 2011 9:36:13 GMT 1
Are you sure the seal has gone?
Is the RH plug a different colour due to air/fuel mix being different.
Reason I ask is that this happened to me years ago and turned out to be the oil pump seal had gone which leaked oil in to the gearbox making it spew out the breather.
Check the oil level first
Steve
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Post by miker1bike on Nov 15, 2011 18:22:51 GMT 1
Yeah pretty sure it's the crank seal it will start only after about 10 mins kicking it over but when it's going it smokes like a bitch from the right hand side pipe !!!!
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Post by daglad on Nov 15, 2011 18:38:33 GMT 1
Never thought of splitting it without taking the barrells off, brilliant idea, i have to fit a new gear shaft bearing and didn't want to take the top end down again. Bloody obvious when you think about it. Thinking has never been my strong point  |
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Post by Tone on Nov 15, 2011 21:55:12 GMT 1
Don't forget the bearing retainer plate behind the clutch will have to come off.
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Post by woodentopp on Nov 16, 2011 7:57:42 GMT 1
Also the lower allen bolt on the alternator winding.
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Post by weldelsie on Nov 16, 2011 8:18:07 GMT 1
What a great site some sound advice ,and its free
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Post by ianboom on Nov 17, 2011 22:02:33 GMT 1
Just split my cases as there was a leak from the left hand cylinder through the case joint-although haven't changed the crank seals-we'll see if it leaks!
Thought about not pulling the barrels off, but you'll either have to leave the gearbox in the top half and align the selector forks when you reassemble, otherwise, hold the crank in one half of the cases and the gearbox in the other-it's a real fiddle, so I pulled the top end apart-it only needs a head and barrel gaskets.
Ian.
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chez
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 336
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Post by chez on Nov 18, 2011 18:35:00 GMT 1
leave the head an barrels joined together then it will just be new base gaskets you would do all that in couple of hours  |
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Post by ianboom on Nov 18, 2011 21:33:55 GMT 1
Ordered some new crank seals today so split the case yet again (split them once to cure the original leak, 2nd time as I left the crank locating ring off! and now 3 times to replace the crank seals).
Arghhhhhhhhh.
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don't see why not
