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Post by billy on Oct 3, 2011 20:01:20 GMT 1
I just dinged a valvie lump into my LC and I got a problem with the clutch cable. Now, obviously the LC cable doesn't fit (err... or does it? I think it's too short) but I had another cable layin around, but I'm having trouble getting the cable slimmed against the bike. Should I use a holder thingy for the cable around the radiator mount??  |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Oct 3, 2011 20:19:23 GMT 1
Hi,
A lot of people use an R6 cable on the valve motor. Might be an Lc2 cable you have which is the longest.
F2 cable is shorter.
Steve
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Post by billy on Oct 3, 2011 20:40:40 GMT 1
Hi, A lot of people use an R6 cable on the valve motor. Might be an Lc2 cable you have which is the longest. F2 cable is shorter. Steve Thank's mate.  It must be an Lc2 cable then, I got this wire in a job lot of parts from 31K and F1, and F1 is pretty much a 31K, just different plastics and stuff. I think I'm gonna try my luck with a cable holder that I attach on the top rad mount. (maybe this is a common solution?) I'll make it so the cable can move inside the holder. If it still ain't no good, then R6 cable it is! |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Oct 4, 2011 7:23:12 GMT 1
The cable with the elbow is F2
Steve
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paulo
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 406
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Post by paulo on Oct 4, 2011 9:49:24 GMT 1
Hi mate, I've got a YPVS cable fitted (one with the 90 degree elbow). Found the best solution for adjustment was routing the cable back under the tank (through coil mounting area of frame) out the left hand side and through the harness bracket to the rear of the head stock and up to the clutch lever. This was the only route that i could find that took up the length in the cable so i could get a decent lever adjustment - i think with all these pattern cables about now, route it the best you can for the cable / bike you have - its all part of the fun  . |
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Post by Norbo on Oct 4, 2011 12:27:24 GMT 1
As steve said you have an F2 cable . they tend to be best and like maten said a small hoop may be a good idea . Nick fubber did the same thing on the bike i just got of him .
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Post by billy on Oct 4, 2011 15:31:02 GMT 1
As steve said you have an F2 cable . they tend to be best and like maten said a small hoop may be a good idea . Nick fubber did the same thing on the bike i just got of him . But there's no elbow thingy around the lever area so must be a 31K cable then? Anyway, I'll try adding a cable holder on the top radiator mount and see if it's allright, I think it will work tbh, otherwise I'll try an R6 cable or fiddle with the routing. Right now I'm off for attaching the radiator, exhausts, fill up fluids, attach battery etc. I think I'm gonna have to offset the rear sprocket 5 mm also as the front sprocket will end up 5 mm further to the left even when using an LC sprocket spacer. I have a solution for the rear sprocket but I need a bit of lathe job for it. There's a guy nearby that has a lathe so I could ask him if he could do it. Otherwise I'm sure I can get hold of someone on the mighty internetz.  |
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Post by billy on Oct 4, 2011 22:29:53 GMT 1
I got the wire to sit fairly allright by adding a holder to the rad mount, it's not perfect but it'll do the job. Apart from that, I took the bike for a first ride with the valvie lump and MY GOD!!!! This engine has some power.  I knew it would have more power then the LC engine ufcourse, it has a higher ex. duration, bigger reeds etc, but I didn't expect it to be this badass. It has a fairly narrow powerband because of the fully opened valves though, so it doesn't happen alot until you reach about 5-6K rpm (this is just an approximation though, not like I'm staring at the rev meter while trying out the power). But at that point, the thing absolutely EXPLODES in power and you better hold the f**k on to those handlebars. ;D Thing pulls like a train in the powerband, and I havn't even gunned the thing properly yet because of the wet road. I think this engine has around 70 hp at the crank and maybe 65 at the wheel? Anyone that knows better can correct me, but I'm fairly sure I'm somewhat right about the peak power. The engine setup: 1,1 to 1,2 mm mm squish (the head is not perfectly even as it still has the casting surface) Ignition at 1,75mm BTDC Ported inlets, not very much, just for better flow Ported transfer ports inlets Exhaust ports cleaned up (but not raised or widened) Glass fibre reeds, possibly from Banshee? LC pipes with homemade baffles for better flow (the original baffles has laughably small holes in in them) LC ignition (obviously not a power gaining mod I think, just mentioning it) So..... nothing out of the ordinary really. I suppose most of the extra power comes from the squish gap? This is the barrels btw. I did not drill the 8 mm holes in the inlets, they were there when I got these barrels!Not the best looking porting I admit, but you know, even though I enjoy seeing good looking ports, there comes a time when you get tired of sitting for days with one barrel just to make it LOOK as good as it runs.  Inlets: img600.imageshack.us/img600/2162/pict0003uf.jpg  |
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It must be an Lc2 cable then, I got this wire in a job lot of parts from 31K and F1, and F1 is pretty much a 31K, just different plastics and stuff.
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