Post by nikfubar on Sept 30, 2011 10:31:18 GMT 1
This is the most common conversion & the easiest way to do it is by having the hardware made up by an engineering firm which will cost in the region of £100.00 the PDF drawings which you need to download are here 92.48.206.111/~rdre/draw/RDGV/RDGValinone.PDF
This is what you will end up with when fitted.
Fitting the swing arm.
1. You can retain your original swingarm spindle, to fit into your frame you need to remove the end caps, remove & dispose of the spacing washers.
You need to get a pair of reducing bushes made up to match the spindle diameter (option 1 on the PDF drawings is the cheapest & easiest ) Loctite these into the RGV bearing bushes as shown on the PDF, slide back into the swingarm bearings, install the end caps without the spacing washers & it should slide straight into the frame. Install the spindle, job done ;D
2. Linkage mounting kit, You need a pair of the variable mounting plates & a set of the adapter bushes made up.
Bolt this lot together as shown in the drawings. You will not be able to retain your centre stand.
3. Connecting rods (dog bones) on the banana arm you will need to have a set of these made. IMHO these make the bike sit too low so I reduced the length of these by 10mm which raised the rear end by 50mm (every 5mm shorter raises rear by 25mm) Once these are fitted, install the RGV shock lower mounting bolt.
4. Top shock mount. You will need a set of top hat spacers & a new 10mm bolt as shown on the PDF drawings.
5. Offset sprocket. For some reason every bike is different so fit your swingarm & wheel with sprocket carrier, then check the offset you need. Check the wheel is aligned properly in the swing arm & run a straight edge across your rear sprocket to the front sprocket & measure how far out it is. This is the offset you need, NK racing sell these sprockets in various sizes.
6. Rear brake master cylinder. This needs to be spaced off the frame with 2 or 3 washers otherwise it will put a nice gouge in your banana arm
This is what you should end up with
Front end
1. Use the standard RGV yokes with standard size YPVS taper bearings & seal. I get all my bearings & seals from here shop.marksman-ind.com/individual-taper-roller-bearings-45-c.asp but Norbo sells them
To install, first you need to put on a 6mm spacer, you can have one made as the PDF drawings or Norbo sells them or for the cheapest option I use one of the old ball race cups you removed, turned upside down, perfect fit
then fit the bearing seal, then the lower taper bearing. The easiest way to fit this is to put your bottom yoke in a plastic bag & leave it in the freezer over night. The bearing will then tap on easy using a bit of steel tube as a drift. Install the cups into the frame & assemble as normal.
2. You will need to make new steering stops or the forks will hit the tank. I did it by grinding off the old stops on the yoke, Drilling & tapping for M8 bolts. Determine the position by fitting the yokes & tank then mark the position they need to be so nothing clashes.
3. If you don't want clip ons you will need to fit risers, you have 2 options, you can buy bolt on risers or send it to NK racing who will weld you on a set for about £60.00
If you turn the top yoke upside down you will see four 6mm thread holes drill out the ones in the middle of the yoke to mount the bolt on risers.
Or here's a set of welded ones ;D
4. Ignition switch. This will fit with a few spacers I believe
the lock stop may need some modification. I fitted RGV ignition switches to mine & these needed re-wiring & a new lock stop welding on.
Braced RGV swing arm for the more adventurous
Before starting stand your bike upright on it's wheels & take a measurement from the floor to the centre of the swing arm spindle, this is your datum point.
Next fit the swing arm as discribed before.
Lower linkage mount.
This is determined by the type of shock you are fitting. If you plan to keep the standard top mount, fit the shock to the linkage & top mount, fit the dog bones to the linkage & support the bike on stands using your datum measurement, the linkage will then be held in position for the fabrication of your lower mounts. Make templates out of cardboard then cut out of 5mm mild steel plate & weld on.
Once it's all welded on tight cut off the old centre stand mount.
If you fancy fitting something like the later R6 shock you could make a new top mount in the same manner as the lower mount, you just need to ensure you have full range of movement on the shock. Here's a top mount tacked on.
Here's the finished rolling chassis
The finished article ( sorry just showing off now
)
This is what you will end up with when fitted.
Fitting the swing arm.
1. You can retain your original swingarm spindle, to fit into your frame you need to remove the end caps, remove & dispose of the spacing washers.
You need to get a pair of reducing bushes made up to match the spindle diameter (option 1 on the PDF drawings is the cheapest & easiest ) Loctite these into the RGV bearing bushes as shown on the PDF, slide back into the swingarm bearings, install the end caps without the spacing washers & it should slide straight into the frame. Install the spindle, job done ;D
2. Linkage mounting kit, You need a pair of the variable mounting plates & a set of the adapter bushes made up.
Bolt this lot together as shown in the drawings. You will not be able to retain your centre stand.
3. Connecting rods (dog bones) on the banana arm you will need to have a set of these made. IMHO these make the bike sit too low so I reduced the length of these by 10mm which raised the rear end by 50mm (every 5mm shorter raises rear by 25mm) Once these are fitted, install the RGV shock lower mounting bolt.
4. Top shock mount. You will need a set of top hat spacers & a new 10mm bolt as shown on the PDF drawings.
5. Offset sprocket. For some reason every bike is different so fit your swingarm & wheel with sprocket carrier, then check the offset you need. Check the wheel is aligned properly in the swing arm & run a straight edge across your rear sprocket to the front sprocket & measure how far out it is. This is the offset you need, NK racing sell these sprockets in various sizes.
6. Rear brake master cylinder. This needs to be spaced off the frame with 2 or 3 washers otherwise it will put a nice gouge in your banana arm
This is what you should end up with
Front end
1. Use the standard RGV yokes with standard size YPVS taper bearings & seal. I get all my bearings & seals from here shop.marksman-ind.com/individual-taper-roller-bearings-45-c.asp but Norbo sells them
To install, first you need to put on a 6mm spacer, you can have one made as the PDF drawings or Norbo sells them or for the cheapest option I use one of the old ball race cups you removed, turned upside down, perfect fit
then fit the bearing seal, then the lower taper bearing. The easiest way to fit this is to put your bottom yoke in a plastic bag & leave it in the freezer over night. The bearing will then tap on easy using a bit of steel tube as a drift. Install the cups into the frame & assemble as normal.2. You will need to make new steering stops or the forks will hit the tank. I did it by grinding off the old stops on the yoke, Drilling & tapping for M8 bolts. Determine the position by fitting the yokes & tank then mark the position they need to be so nothing clashes.
3. If you don't want clip ons you will need to fit risers, you have 2 options, you can buy bolt on risers or send it to NK racing who will weld you on a set for about £60.00
If you turn the top yoke upside down you will see four 6mm thread holes drill out the ones in the middle of the yoke to mount the bolt on risers.
Or here's a set of welded ones ;D
4. Ignition switch. This will fit with a few spacers I believe
the lock stop may need some modification. I fitted RGV ignition switches to mine & these needed re-wiring & a new lock stop welding on.Braced RGV swing arm for the more adventurous
Before starting stand your bike upright on it's wheels & take a measurement from the floor to the centre of the swing arm spindle, this is your datum point.
Next fit the swing arm as discribed before.
Lower linkage mount.
This is determined by the type of shock you are fitting. If you plan to keep the standard top mount, fit the shock to the linkage & top mount, fit the dog bones to the linkage & support the bike on stands using your datum measurement, the linkage will then be held in position for the fabrication of your lower mounts. Make templates out of cardboard then cut out of 5mm mild steel plate & weld on.
Once it's all welded on tight cut off the old centre stand mount.
If you fancy fitting something like the later R6 shock you could make a new top mount in the same manner as the lower mount, you just need to ensure you have full range of movement on the shock. Here's a top mount tacked on.
Here's the finished rolling chassis
The finished article ( sorry just showing off now
)
